Potential power increase for CK2610?

[iptman]

About the same coolant volume.

 

[Snowlan]

Yeah but then you need to find someone with a PTO Dyno. I wouldn't even know where to look for someone who had one.

An easier way to see performance change is if you have a hill with constant grade, set rpm at a point that high speed setting starts to struggle at full pedal. Make your small adjustment and try again, watch for exhaust discharge change at this load as well as improvements in the engine holding the load. Repeat until desired hill climbing is met, or increased exhaust smoke is observed.

You won’t know the hp specifically, but will know the extent of performance improvement.

 

[92lt]

The sleeve over the adjustment screw is incredibly tough to get off. I think when I did it I had to cut it using a Dremel. I also recall ordering a new one from online oem parts seller. I will say though that I turned the screw out pretty far( little at a time) but I never noticed any black smoke. I didn't notice any power difference on my 2016 Ck2610. I only see black smoke breifly when starting it after it's been sitting a while. I drive mine on very steep inclines and pretty much have to use low gear.

Update... Sorry if this was mentioned here before, but....
Comments on the YouTube video says that the old 35hp had 18° of timing vs 2610 is 16°. My understanding is removing shim(s) will add timing. .001" = 1°. Anyone know the part numbers their associated thicknesses?

 

[Gunneer]

Here we have it, someone finally put a video on youtube

Did this on mine, night and day difference. High gear is actually useable, no issues going straight up my 25-35 degree hill in Medium, and the rotary cutter has no issue with 4-5' wetlands grass at full speed in Medium.

 

[Billrog]

It may be wise to follow advice from a professional . I would not follow any advice from that fella.

 

[John Skull]

Hmm.... I think I'll wait till he does a follow up video. Lol.

He did a follow-up video using the tractor under load:

 

[Icehole]

After watching this guys video and a similar one on a 25hp tractor with the “dull orange color”, I went ahead and cut the cap off the adjustment screw with an oscillating tool which was way easier compared to the dremil and grinding tools the other guys used. Anyway, I had used a big hill in front of the house in high gear to judge the increase in performance. Before the adjustment I could barely make it up in high while losing 500-600 rpm off the 2600 I started at. I ended up with the adjustment screw out 2.5 turns and now lose less than 50 rpm’s. I don’t notice any smoke but I can smell it more under load so I didn’t try turning it out anymore. I also noticed diminishing results the further I backed off the adjustment. I think 1.5 turns gave the most dramatic results. The tractor feels night and day to me now. It always felt heavy and sluggish before in anything but low gear. It now feels like the power and weight of this tractor fit. Oh, my tractor is a 2016 hst with 450hrs on it.

 

[Icehole]

Now I’m waiting for my hydro gage to come in so that I can check to see if I’m getting all I should from the hydraulics. Does anyone know the hydro psi specs for these 2610hst’s? I’m hoping That my hydro psi is a little low so that I can get a double whammy of increased engine H.P. And some more hydro power. Then I’ll start breaking stuff. Aarrrgg!

 

[Boss 302]

Thanks for the write up, very informative.

 

[Midniteoyl]

After watching this guys video and a similar one on a 25hp tractor with the “dull orange color”, I went ahead and cut the cap off the adjustment screw with an oscillating tool which was way easier compared to the dremil and grinding tools the other guys used. Anyway, I had used a big hill in front of the house in high gear to judge the increase in performance. Before the adjustment I could barely make it up in high while losing 500-600 rpm off the 2600 I started at. I ended up with the adjustment screw out 2.5 turns and now lose less than 50 rpm’s. I don’t notice any smoke but I can smell it more under load so I didn’t try turning it out anymore. I also noticed diminishing results the further I backed off the adjustment. I think 1.5 turns gave the most dramatic results. The tractor feels night and day to me now. It always felt heavy and sluggish before in anything but low gear. It now feels like the power and weight of this tractor fit. Oh, my tractor is a 2016 hst with 450hrs on it.

 

[wkmounts]

In case your sleeve becomes damaged or destroyed for some reason, it looks extremely simple to put it back to the factory look. However, I would probably purchase ahead of time to make sure everything is exact. Put #1 to desired location. install 3, 2, 3, 4,5. Then slightly tap #6 over the entire assembly. I am assuming #6 is the sleeve. And I would be willing to bet that this is the same for the CX2510 since it has the same displacement and model # of engine.

 

[wkmounts]

 

[Billrog]

I have never touched the fuel screw , but the shims were removed by the dealer and told me it wouldn't effect the warranty but turning up the fuel would. My machine has all the power necessary for it's size. I plowed a ft of snow this morning in high on the level and slight slopes. Mid range for steep hills I'm able to plow in both directions up the hill as well as down.

 

[Buggs67]

I've been reding thru all this and hoping to apply it to my CK2510H. It has a different engine

Daedong 3A139LFB

diesel

3-cylinder 6-valve

but I am hoping it will work. It appears that there are two lock/jam nuts and the center screw with the slot is the actual adjuster. Cutting off that tamper-proof cylinder appears to be the hard (scary) part.

With only two gears, High and Low id be nice to have more HP so I can doo more in high, like using the FM or rear blade, or even climbing the driveway with a full bucket at more than half pedal.

BTW my tractor will rev to 3000 rpm with the throttle stick all the way forward and I sometimes do this when driving up the driveway in High gear. I assume this will not damage my engine.

 

[55ford640]

I don't know if anyone knows the answer, but pertaining to the fuel screw, the parts diagram looks like it can just be threaded out, if it needed to be replaced can you just thread it all the way out and replace it? If so what is the stock amount of turns from bottomed out?

 

[ohzirra]

Has anyone considered buying the shim pack for the older CK35 and comparing between the two? I found a parts diagram but the numbers didn't seem to be correlating correctly. If the timing/duration is the difference between the 26 and 35, I'd much rather turn it up that way than with the fuel screw.

 

[cioti]

Has anyone considered buying the shim pack for the older CK35 and comparing between the two? I found a parts diagram but the numbers didn't seem to be correlating correctly. If the timing/duration is the difference between the 26 and 35, I'd much rather turn it up that way than with the fuel screw.

It’s timing AND fuel. Timing is measured in degrees. The amount of shims needed can be different from one individual tractor to another. It’s not a ‘pack’ that you buy, install the whole thing, and everything is magically in spec. It could be as simple as removing the pump and taking out one of the existing shims to get the proper ck35 advance. Won’t know until you try to time your tractor to the new spec. The difference each shim makes is in the 2610 service manual.

Then you adjust the fuel screw.

 

[ohzirra]

It’s timing AND fuel. Timing is measured in degrees. The amount of shims needed can be different from one individual tractor to another. It’s not a ‘pack’ that you buy, install the whole thing, and everything is magically in spec. It could be as simple as removing the pump and taking out one of the existing shims to get the proper ck35 advance. Won’t know until you try to time your tractor to the new spec. The difference each shim makes is in the 2610 service manual.

Then you adjust the fuel screw.

Thanks for the clarification. I believe someone else asked (but it wasn't answered) whether or not the fuel timing duration also increased with the lift when removing the shim or whether it was just max lift. Either way, sounds like it's not enough and requires the fuel screw adjustment as well.

This being said, do they really manually time all of the engines individually? Seems like their machining tolerances should be close enough that standard shim packs can be used. It's definitely possible but surprising to me.

Thanks again!

 

[the old grind]

If one wouldn't adjust the timing anyway (for all other operation) why would they do it?

The the rack adjustment raises the max fuel the governor can supply, according to throttle demand and load. And it can be harnessed at any rpm, not just at PTO or max. But nothing will change during any operation that doesn't require more hp than the original setting held to its rating.

The power will be there if/when you need it and more fuel can be delivered. That's the goal and it's really too simple. IMO if you run a slasher it's an absolute must.

 

[ohzirra]

Yeah I guess I was basing most of my thought process on the one poster who said his dealer removed the shim(s) and that's all it took to get it to 35hp. I'm also curious, if that's all they did, how they actually timed the injection. Again, PTO dyno would answer all questions but I'm not aware of one near me.