Post Hole

   / Post Hole #11  
I maybe misunderstanding the situation, but cant you just run it a little bit allowing it to spin on the yoke until I frees up?
 
   / Post Hole #12  
Alternative... If u disassemble the u-joint, you may be able to get a 3-jaw puller on there.
 
   / Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#13  
C4Ranch, I did run it in the hole hoping it would just spin but it seem to just get tighter. I was very careful in doing because I didn't want to split the drive shaft in half like I did with the grade 8 bolt as the shear pin (as you can see in the pic). It seem like the drive shaft pushed all the way up to the head.

SV400003.JPG
SV400004.JPG
 
   / Post Hole #14  
Gotcha. Yeah, I wouldn't want to twist your driveshaft.

I would see if u can get a puller on there or you might try 2 chisels opposite eachother with a buddy hitting simultaneously.
 
   / Post Hole #15  
Sometimes there is a set screw that goes into a channel to prevent the pto shaft from slamming around when the pin shears. Worth checking.
 
   / Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#16  
UPDATE: got it off today, 7879fordman had the right idea, heat-heat-and more heat put a come along on it more heat and WD40 it worked off with help from chiesles
 
   / Post Hole
  • Thread Starter
#17  
thxs 7879fordman that worked for me as well, got it off today
 
   / Post Hole #18  
When I sheared the bolt in mine..... There is another bolt that runs in a groove on the shaft to keep the pto shaft from coming off the gear box...
I got it all apart, cleaned up, de burred with a file, and put back together with anti seize compound on everything that might need it...
Has worked well...
Good luck
 
   / Post Hole #19  
UPDATE: got it off today, 7879fordman had the right idea, heat-heat-and more heat put a come along on it more heat and WD40 it worked off with help from chiesles

It was the spraying WD-40 on it while hot that did the trick. The person who suggested it was right. I came up with that trick by accident about 35 years ago when I was working on a backhoe. I believe the heat thins the oil and by capillary action sucks the oil into the joint as it cools. Its my goto trick on stuff that is stuck. The nice thing is it doesn't take a ton of heat and that minimizes melting seals and such. Glad you got it apart.
 
   / Post Hole #20  
Hot spraying a penetrating oil does wonders on old rusty stuff. I've found that PB Blaster works better than WD-40, but by far the best penetrating oil I've used (and it's been proven in actual research) is a 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid. I filled a spray bottle with a mix of it a while ago and it is awesome. You have to shake it before each use since the two don't mix easily, but the penetrating action of the acetone will carry the detergent action of the transmission fluid right into tight rusty spaces and really break stuff free.
 
 

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