Post Frame vs Stud Wall

theboman · Sep 5, 2002

After all the info if and when I take the plunge it'll be a stud wall. The package deals from lumber companies are cheaper for the stud wall (still ain't figured that one out), and the insulation/wiring will be easier to do.
I'm figuring out how much I can afford, and where I can get the time.

BOOMHAUER · Sep 5, 2002

We buy our chisels from Barrtools.com. A quality chisel will run you $80-100. This chisel will last a lifetime, sharp is an understatement!

BOOMHAUER · Sep 5, 2002

Structural panel construction is another option. Very competitive with stick framing, better R-value, and much stronger. A panel barn/structure goes up super quick. Panels can be manufactured with electrical channels cut into foam.

chim · Sep 5, 2002

Depending upon how soundproof you want to get it, frame may help. I remember seeing plans for soundproofing rooms that involved offset installation of the studs. I can't recall exactly how they did it, but think they used 2X4 studs that shared a 2X8 plate top and bottom. Sound-dampening blankets or insulation was serpentined horizontally betweem the offset studs. Interior finishes were on one set of studs, and exterior on the other..................chim

Ozarker · Sep 5, 2002

Under Floor radiant heat is becoming popular. You can put the pipes under your drive as well and just melt the snow and ice off.

rationalizer · Sep 5, 2002

Boman,

That is the decision I made - sinking wood into the ground just doesn't appeal to me - and when I looked into the final cost of an insulated/finished space it was close on cost - so why not build a building that will be more "robust". Pole barns are great for lots of things - but when you start insulating and then putting in walls I think "stick frame" is the way to go. Have you looked at "www.barnplans.com"?

Bill

Wingnut · Sep 6, 2002

I think that, for what you're doing, a stud wall is definitely a better alternative. I built my shop from a 24 x 32 garage package.
Studs are easier to work with as far as insulating, providing nailing surfaces for sheves, wallboard, counters, etc. Also easier for a guy to do himself (I did the whole thing without any assistance ... made me feel pretty good)
Studs are also cheaper (since they're mass produced by machine and you get a lot more 2x4's from a large log than 4x4's (or larger posts). They also don't need to be treated, etc.
When I built mine, I put one course of cinder blocks on the slab to raise the height ... when I was almost finished doing the inside, I was wishing I'd used 2 courses and had a 10 foot ceiling. 9 foot works pretty well though.
Good luck, when you decide and get to it!

pete

Hoeman00 · Sep 6, 2002

I used 2x6x14' YP w/ double top and bottom plates.
It gave me 14' 6" ceiling ht. and could use 13' 6" overhead door
(low overhead kit).
1/2" osb, building wrap, and vinyl siding outside.
R-19 in walls and 5/8 drywall.
Works VERY nice.

theboman · Sep 6, 2002

I'm now way past the 60% phase of I have to do this now. I also made a decision that on the garage side of the garage that the last rafter or two will be beefed up enough so I can hang my 60" MMM for winter storage (the neatest thing I've seen/heard done in a while, thanks TBN folks), I'll just hang a couple of short chains and get one of those small hoists to leave mounted.
The studio side will be wired for audio as well as electric. I'll have some sort of heating/cooling in there but it's not the most important thing to me at this point since I have a widow unit AC and a portable heater.

Elkoboy · Sep 8, 2002

As an alternative to a conventional masonry foundation, wood foundations are being used as well.

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