Positioning new barn in relation to wind?

[MarkV]

Wow, 18' side walls are tall. Do you plan on a loft area?

MarkV

 

[dweitzel]

Yes, eventually. Putting a 12" dia and a 8" dia phone pole in the same hole hoping to put a loft in someday. Also spec'd out sicissor trusses to get a little more headroom. Problem is spanning the 25+ feet clear w/no beams or posts in the middle. Think I have it figured out, but just need to come up with the materials. A few bales of hay can sure add up to a LOT of weight in a hurry. If I get around to it I'll post the pictures. Thanks.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Thanks Lloyd, yes, if I go with standing seam, I'll have someone come and roll it full sheets on site. My truss mfg want me to put trusses 2' OC due to wind im my area and also for sissor trusses to get additional head room if I put in a loft or stalls later.

I'll probably put thin roll insulation under the metal roof to allow condensation to flow out the eaves rather than drip on the hay inside.

Any other wind ideas for the roof/attaching the roof? Thanks again

Dave

Re: roll insulation. I swear by the foil backed on both sides bubble wrap insulation under the roof tin over purlins. Cuts the sound from heavy rain too.

I had a 56x120x12 foot long barn in PA oriented E-W with most of my winds coming out of the NW down off of my hills. Closing the E 12h x 8w (16' overall) doors prior to opening the W doors helped on a windy day. The snow did build up on the E side particularly towards the SE corner.

During non windy summer days, the E end air got rather stagnent but at 64' in length, that would not be an issue.

I would box and vent the end eaves at least if not the sides of the roof. You can get long "U" shaped strips of metal that lay over your roof rafters or trusses then nail to the headers or posts to further secure the roof. If you use a double header with short pieces of 2x6, etc. nailed perpendicular inside of the headers rising up to then nail your trusses to, go up in size to a 4x6, etc. for more surface area to nail to. Or, take the time to secure 2x with screws. Pre-drill the upper area prior to fastening the truss/rafter to them. Better yet, run some screws in from both sides with pre-drilling the side you are going through first. Might want to take the time to fasten the roof purlins with screws also at least at the end eaves. Best to use a counter sinking bit to predrill the purlilns and set the screws a hair below the surface to allow for shrinkage. Insulating should help to prevent dimpling though.

Lastly, brace your corners with some steel diagonal strapping prior to nailing the horizontal purlins on.

 

[dweitzel]

Sounds great on the ideas. Looks like we are thinking the same on all the issues mentioned. I did spec the simpson hurricane straps I think you are talking about for tieing down the trusses. The metal wind bracing is a good idea.

Got a quote back yesterday metal. Got sticker shock on the metal. 29 ga, #1 metal for roof and sides over $6800, or more than half the material cost of the barn. This does not include the sliders for the doors, but is roofing, trim soffit and metal for sides. I think this is a pretty good bid from the pricing I've seen, but come on. Scrap is way down. Are the metal dealers trying to sell out their old high price stock first?

Any ideas. I'm in SE In if anyone has ideas for metal suppliers.