Pole Building -- Electrical Question

[SOS]

Thanks all. It looks like a job for a professional. I will probably do the ditch and ditch prep and drop a few lines in for a phone and a network, but leave the rest up to the pros

 

[ray66v]

This same basic question gets asked over, and over. There is ton's of information on this, in the FAQ search area.

As well as other popular repeating topics such as: ag vs turf, chains on the front tires, synthetic vs mineral, Oil filters, diesel fuel additives, pvc for air lines, mig vs stick, filling tires, bucket hooks, stone for driveways, fabric under stone driveways, generator size, and steering wheel spinners, (that one has not been back recently).

 

[Diamondpilot]

These guys gave you good info. 10 ga is not enough to run just your compressor at that distance.

I would go with 100 amp service as others stated. Do it right the first time or you could be looking at a fire.

Also when you have the trench open think ahead. I put in water, phone, cable, electrical, 2 cat 4's for internet alarm intercom ect, and the best thing I did was run compressed air back to the house. I put in a air station in my attached 2 car garage, utility room, and in my upstairs pantry. Used pex and have had no issues at 120 psi for 7 years now.

Chris

 

[bota7800]

Where does your electrical service come into your property relative to where you are planning this building?

In my case, the supply came up from the road roughly following the drive to house. When I had an existing pole barn and a new metal horse barn wired we excavated and tied into the supply line under ground* near the project. My electrician was concerned that if we came from the house and back to the new service there would be capacity problems. It also saved material and was a lot simpler job. He earned his money with me right there.


*The connection was made in a Traffic box.

 

[SuperCobra]

Thanks all. It looks like a job for a professional. I will probably do the ditch and ditch prep and drop a few lines in for a phone and a network, but leave the rest up to the pros

Looks like you're in my neighborhood. Check prices before you buy wire and rent a trencher. I found out after the fact that is was a lot cheaper to have the Rap COOP do everything. I guess they can get the wire that much cheaper in bulk.

 

[LD1]

Looks like your in my neighborhood. Check prices before you buy wire and rent a trencher. I found out after the fact that is was a lot cheaper to have the Rap COOP do everything. I guess they can get the wire that much cheaper in bulk.

Very true.

Check your COOP or local electric company.

When I did my shop I needed 60 ft for 100amp service. I used 1/0-1/0-2 aluminum (I think) And lowes wanted $2.84 per ft and the coop was $1.98 but I got it for $1.57 due to my mother working there.

As mentioned there engineers are also very knowledgable as well. I was pondering wether or not to run a new 200ft leg from the meter or just the 60ft from the house. And he avised me well. Since I had a 200a meter and a 200a box in the house he said it wouldnt matter as far as electriciy is concerned but it would be easier to go from the house. He also reccomended the wire sizes and reccomended just throwing a 100a breaker in the house box to connect, that way I could hook everything up without them having to pull the meter.

Don't quote me but if I remember he said it was 4/0-4/0-2/0 alum. for 200 amp and 1/0-1/0-2 alum for 100 amp. Those prices were underground triplex (no conduit required). I am no electrician but I am no novice either, but I don't understand everyones reccomendations for a 4 wire setup. What do you use the 4th wire for?? The 200 amp to my house only as 3, 2 hot legs and a ground?????

 

[SPIKER]

Very true.

Check your COOP or local electric company.

... I am no electrician but I am no novice either, but I don't understand everyones recommendations for a 4 wire setup. What do you use the 4th wire for?? The 200 amp to my house only as 3, 2 hot legs and a ground?????

4wire is required when tying to a 2nd building from the home, this becomes a sub panel from the original and sense it is in a different building it requires the ground and neutral to be separated in the new sub-panel. there is a ground potential difference between the two buildings... you need the 2 hot legs for 220 and a Neutral and a ground... while the Neutral & ground are bonded in the main panel then can not be bonded in the sub.

mark

 

[firefighter jim]

4wire is required when tying to a 2nd building from the home, this becomes a sub panel from the original and sense it is in a different building it requires the ground and neutral to be separated in the new sub-panel. there is a ground potential difference between the two buildings... you need the 2 hot legs for 220 and a Neutral and a ground... while the Neutral & ground are bonded in the main panel then can not be bonded in the sub.

mark

A cheaper route (since it is a long run) would be running 3 wires (2 hots and 1 neutral) (aluminum) and drive a ground rod at the new building for your ground wire (copper) from the new sub panel. And as SPIKER pointed out, do not bond neutral to panel. (sub panel will require a ground bar kit)

 

[firefighter jim]

Very true.

Check your COOP or local electric company.

When I did my shop I needed 60 ft for 100amp service. I used 1/0-1/0-2 aluminum (I think) And lowes wanted $2.84 per ft and the coop was $1.98 but I got it for $1.57 due to my mother working there.

As mentioned there engineers are also very knowledgable as well. I was pondering wether or not to run a new 200ft leg from the meter or just the 60ft from the house. And he avised me well. Since I had a 200a meter and a 200a box in the house he said it wouldnt matter as far as electriciy is concerned but it would be easier to go from the house. He also reccomended the wire sizes and reccomended just throwing a 100a breaker in the house box to connect, that way I could hook everything up without them having to pull the meter.

Don't quote me but if I remember he said it was 4/0-4/0-2/0 alum. for 200 amp and 1/0-1/0-2 alum for 100 amp. Those prices were underground triplex (no conduit required). I am no electrician but I am no novice either, but I don't understand everyones reccomendations for a 4 wire setup. What do you use the 4th wire for?? The 200 amp to my house only as 3, 2 hot legs and a ground?????

The 200 amp service feeding your house has 2 hots and 1 NEUTRAL (not a ground). The electrical panel is then grounded by an additional wire which runs to a ground rod, or in some cases, the cold water plumbing (if it's metallic and with a jumper around the meter). The NEC now requires a ground rod.

 

[kennyd]

A cheaper route (since it is a long run) would be running 3 wires (2 hots and 1 neutral) (aluminum) and drive a ground rod at the new building for your ground wire (copper) from the new sub panel. And as SPIKER pointed out, do not bond neutral to panel. (sub panel will require a ground bar kit)

That is NOT legal, at least here in MD for sure!