Pole barn purlin help!

[inane2]

Hey guys,

Running into a bit of a problem "remodeling" a pole barn on my property.

I'm working on a 96' x 60' pole barn built in 1997 (former horse riding arena). 6x6 posts 6' OC (sidewalls), 6x6 posts 12' OC (endwalls), 2x6x12 girts 30" OC, 2x4x14 purlins 24" OC and the walls are 14' tall. The roof currently has 2" vinyl reinforced insulation (6' rolls). I want to replace all the metal (color change), replace the insulation and try to eliminate the leaks. I'm replacing the old 24" fiberglass ridgecap skylight with a metal ridgecap which should help with most of the leaks. The roof is almost 32' long on each side. The roof currently has two 16' panels overlapped but I'm going back with a single sheet.

The barn has had water damage over the years due to bad trim work, too small gutters (3"), fiberglass skylights and nails working loose. All of the fasteners are nails with washers, not screws. Insulation is rotted and damaged in areas.

I have all of the metal, trim, fasteners, precut insulation and a wagon load of lumber ready to go. I'm very familiar with construction and with pole barns. There is a smaller 36' x 48' barn attached to this one that we've already completed. I simply don't have the time to effectively tackle the larger barn.

My problem is I can't find anyone really interested in doing the work for me. I'm in Kentucky and we are full of pole barns. Our big name pole barn companies aren't interested in sending a crew out because I didn't buy my materials from them. My supplier has provided me with names but there is one thing seems to make everyone lose interest: the roof purlins (2x4x14´) are mounted on edge. One purlin crosses three trusses and then overlaps the next purlin by 2'. Then, the next purlin is staggered above or below the previous one. The purlins are fastened with a single 6 60D pole barn nail at each truss. The purlins are fastened where they overlap with some 16D's I believe. Again, these are spanning 6' on a 3:12 pitch roof, 24" OC. No new construction methods or anything, just the purlins are on edge. I had my new insulation in 4' rolls to make it easier to see the purlins.

My thoughts: remove 5 panels at a time to open up 15'. This would allow you to replace any purlins that need it. Roll a 4' piece of insulation down, fasten it, lay a 3' panel of metal down and fasten it. Repeat. After the fourth panel is down, start all over and be ready to change lines with your fasteners as the purlins have shifted.

I'm getting some interested crews but the purlins seem to be a major concern. I realize you have 1.5" to hit with a screw. Everyone who has come out to the barn gets locked in on the purlins and wants to modify them in some way (doubling them up, laying them flat, adding plywood). This is a stout barn with a very good, solid core. I want to leave the purlins as they are, on edge. There is 256 purlins total and probably 50 or so need to be replaced because of rotted ends (mostly the ones on the ends of the barn).

The other problem is I'm getting references such as "Johnny" the guy down the road that can "do anything". For this project and the expense involved, I'd rather go with someone who is familiar with metal and pole barns.

1. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions?
2. Secondly, would you guys use closure strips on the ridge cap? This barn is not heated / cooled, has no exterior soffit and no gable vents / fans.

Thanks!

 

[Midniteoyl]

Simple to just leave the ones there and double up.. Why is this a concern for you? Weight? The gable end ends )) could be cut back to the last truss so only one purlin end is over hanging.

 

[inane2]

Thanks midniteoyl.

I'm good with doubling them up. That provides 3" of material to hit (as long as you don't hit the crack between the two). They'll be using 1.5" screws.

I'm good with this if it will add confidence to the crew. It will be extra material cost and time, but I'm fine with this opposed to laying them all flat. Believe me, this is the most reasonable request I've gotten as how to deal with it.

I guess I'm just shocked at how the purlins being on edge is such an outstanding issue. I've been there, done it. Seems it just makes you pay more attention to what you're doing.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Ya.. I like them on edge personally, but it seem most crews want them flat. I dont see it myself other than allowing more area to miss with the nails. You should see the amount of holes in my roof...

 

[ohio farmer04]

go find some amish

 

[inane2]

The Amish is a very good suggestion. There are some that advertise on CL but they are a piece away from me.

 

[inane2]

Barn in question ....

 

[Brad_Blazer]

This is just my round bale feeder but I put a 2x4 on edge between the "trusses" and one flat across the top to make a T.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Until I went to work delivering barn materials for a builder that had 10-14 crews on, I had not seen 2x4'x on edge for purlins but that is all that that company did and they did alot of buildings. Been to long to remember how they laid them out and fastened them. I would maybe consider some sort of Simpson Strong Tie clips where to purlins fasten to the endwalls to resist uplift from high winds. Maybe replace every other rotted end with a 2x long enough to overlap at the first truss but go longer to catch a couple of trusses in between.

I thought most insulation was laid horizontal with a couple of inches of overlap so any moisture would follow to the eave. I don't know if going in line with the roof tin would be an issue or not? I have seen builders roll out enough insulation horizontally to secure a few panels but not all the way so that the wind would pick it up. They would have several rolls stepped out across the roof wtih the required overlap. I don't remember if they had to secure the rolls or not as they worked across the roof to keep them from taking off.

I like a vented peak but would always use some coated chicken wire under the to limit bird nesting. With no insulation, you would have moisture but minimally.

Be vary wary of do anything Johnny. I have had "Johnny" highly recommended by his buddy. "Johnny meant well but did not know pole barn methods from his backside. That is not to say that your "Johnny" is that way just be careful.

 

[jimgerken]

I re-tinned a pole building that was built in the mid 70's. From the ground, before we started to tear off the old tin, the purlins (on edge btw) looked aweful. The original tin was nailed on and leaked in around 3500 places (every frackin' nail basically). we figured that the leaking over the years had ruined all the purlins and they did look bad. However, once we got the old tin off and got up there, none of them were bad. We walked on the roof as we tinned it, and none of the purlins had any issue. I was amazed. Now, the wall girts were a different story. They were damaged from machinery running into them and breaking them, and since we were now constructin wainscott on this building, the girts were essentially all in the wrong places, and half of them broken anyway. so all of those were removed and replaced with new. Cheap to do really, on this 32 x 50 building, and made interior much cleaner looking too. Later I reused every single removed 2x4 for another building re-roof.
My re-tinned building did not ever have insulation, so maybe that is why the purlins survived al the years of leaking nails, because they were allowed to dry out between rains. the insulation maybe held the water close to your 2x4s and ruined them. Anyway, in case you havent actually touched them yet, they may look bad from the ground due to water staining, but still be serviceable.
We have been putting a layer of Tyvek housewrap on top of the purlins, under the tin screwed on. It gives us a second barrier in case any leaks develop. If there was a leak, the water would run down to the vented soffit instead of dripping inside the building. This includes condensation, if any ever ocurrs.

Have you put an ad in the papers for help? Maybe if you did you could kind of interview the reponders and choose one to work with/for you.