Scott_in_WVA
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Built up columns...I guess I am not sure what you are referring to,the posts maybe?
Pole barn posts
- Thread starter budman72
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yooperdave
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Scott,
Columns and posts are one in the same thing.
Yooper Dave
Columns and posts are one in the same thing.
Yooper Dave
Gatorboy
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Morton Buildings uses built up posts in it's buildings.
Here are some photos from Bill_in_MI of built up posts:
| <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/8-69381-105-0588_IMG.JPG>Photo 2
They are staggered, and the portion that goes in the ground is PT, and the remainder is not PT. This is how I will be building my posts.
Here are some photos from Bill_in_MI of built up posts:
| <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/8-69381-105-0588_IMG.JPG>Photo 2
They are staggered, and the portion that goes in the ground is PT, and the remainder is not PT. This is how I will be building my posts.
Spencer
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Dave,
I am in the process of building my pole barn right now. I don't think I even had the option of using those built-up posts. What benefits do you think you are gaining by using them? Is it stronger or more cost effective? Just wondering.
I wish clearing my pole barn area was as easy as yours. I had to carve my area out of the woods. I had to remove at least 12" of topsoil/roots/crap and in some places up to 16".
I am in the process of building my pole barn right now. I don't think I even had the option of using those built-up posts. What benefits do you think you are gaining by using them? Is it stronger or more cost effective? Just wondering.
I wish clearing my pole barn area was as easy as yours. I had to carve my area out of the woods. I had to remove at least 12" of topsoil/roots/crap and in some places up to 16".
yooperdave
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Spencer-
Many people use built up columns for 1 primary reason-
THEY ARE CHEAPER. Cheaper does not usually mean better. You usually get what you pay for. If the individual members are laminated together properly (a huge if) then you should not have much to be concerned with. Most of the built up columns I have seen have not been fabricated properly. Continuity within the built up member is my concern.
Yooper Dave
Many people use built up columns for 1 primary reason-
THEY ARE CHEAPER. Cheaper does not usually mean better. You usually get what you pay for. If the individual members are laminated together properly (a huge if) then you should not have much to be concerned with. Most of the built up columns I have seen have not been fabricated properly. Continuity within the built up member is my concern.
Yooper Dave
Gatorboy
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Here is a quote from Chuck52 from the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=rural&Number=66855&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1>Pole Barn</A> thread:
<font color=blue>
It is clear that for a given duration of treatment, a 2x6 will be more thoroughly saturated with preservative than will a 6x6. I don't have the physics or engineering background to know how a 6x6 built up of 2x6's compares in strength to a solid 6x6, but in general composites, like plywood, often exhibit superior qualities. I suppose the splice might represent a weak point toward flex in at least one direction, but "weak" is a relative term at best. I've been looking at lots of 6x6, 4x6 and 2x6 lumber in the last few days. One thing I have noted is that it is easier to find really good looking 2x6's than 6x6's. Many of the 6x6 poles appear to be squared-off single trees, while the end grain of the 2x6's gives the impression they were cut from larger diameter logs. The quality of 6x6 lumber may vary sigificantly around the country. Here in mid-Missery they look to be mostly southern pine. The prices for longer pieces of lumber can also be dramatically higher, which makes sense, and the difference is greater for the larger cuts. While a 2x4x16 may be about the same price as two 2x4x8's, a 6x6x16 costs quite a bit more than two 6x6x8's.
</font color=blue>
This statement is what convinced me to go with the built ups.
<font color=blue>
It is clear that for a given duration of treatment, a 2x6 will be more thoroughly saturated with preservative than will a 6x6. I don't have the physics or engineering background to know how a 6x6 built up of 2x6's compares in strength to a solid 6x6, but in general composites, like plywood, often exhibit superior qualities. I suppose the splice might represent a weak point toward flex in at least one direction, but "weak" is a relative term at best. I've been looking at lots of 6x6, 4x6 and 2x6 lumber in the last few days. One thing I have noted is that it is easier to find really good looking 2x6's than 6x6's. Many of the 6x6 poles appear to be squared-off single trees, while the end grain of the 2x6's gives the impression they were cut from larger diameter logs. The quality of 6x6 lumber may vary sigificantly around the country. Here in mid-Missery they look to be mostly southern pine. The prices for longer pieces of lumber can also be dramatically higher, which makes sense, and the difference is greater for the larger cuts. While a 2x4x16 may be about the same price as two 2x4x8's, a 6x6x16 costs quite a bit more than two 6x6x8's.
</font color=blue>
This statement is what convinced me to go with the built ups.
jimgerken
Veteran Member
> Many of the 6x6 poles
> appear to be squared-off single trees, while the end grain of the 2x6's gives the impression they were >cut from larger diameter logs.
As a part-time sawmill operator, I can add this: If you want to saw a 6x6, you plan it to be the center of the tree, so it has the heart in the center, and stands a good chance of staying straight. To get to it, you may cut many 2x6s off the outside first. The heartwood near the center is the best part of the log, because the younger growth wood around the outside is less dense. Some of the 2x6s you cut will be young growth, others will be into the heartwood.
As far as these laminated posts, I would think that wood species, grain direction, fastener selection and application, and wood moisture at time of assembly, would all be important and potentially unpredictable factors in the final product. I can see how they could save you money though. My 18 footer 6x6 were $50 apiece.
> appear to be squared-off single trees, while the end grain of the 2x6's gives the impression they were >cut from larger diameter logs.
As a part-time sawmill operator, I can add this: If you want to saw a 6x6, you plan it to be the center of the tree, so it has the heart in the center, and stands a good chance of staying straight. To get to it, you may cut many 2x6s off the outside first. The heartwood near the center is the best part of the log, because the younger growth wood around the outside is less dense. Some of the 2x6s you cut will be young growth, others will be into the heartwood.
As far as these laminated posts, I would think that wood species, grain direction, fastener selection and application, and wood moisture at time of assembly, would all be important and potentially unpredictable factors in the final product. I can see how they could save you money though. My 18 footer 6x6 were $50 apiece.
Scott_in_WVA
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Mine were done right(the built up),you have to stagger the 2"x6" right,believe me my fatherinlaw and I built a nice barn,2"x12" rafters,T-111 5/8 siding,5 v-crimp roofing.
48' long barn 36' wide and square within a 1" to 2" across the roof.
48' long barn 36' wide and square within a 1" to 2" across the roof.
70boss
Bronze Member
I had a 24X54 pole building built 2 years ago using the built up beams. According to the information I read, the built up beams had better strength and uniformity than conventional beams. I built mine on a floating slab of concrete, and the posts were bolted to the slab with large metal plates. My building was outfitted as follows: 24X54, 11" eave height, 8/12 pitch for loft clearance, insulated roof, 12" overhangs on all sides, (2) 36" steel service doors, (3) 9X8 insulated garage doors with 2 auto openers, 4 slide windows, 200Amp electrical with wiring throughout, including a welder circuit. The building, complete with everything totalled around $21,000, and I didn't have to drive a nail. I do not think you can stick build for the same price.
On a side note, check out www.barnplans.com
These barns are very nice, and I will build one of these on some new land.
Rob
On a side note, check out www.barnplans.com
These barns are very nice, and I will build one of these on some new land.
Rob
Hoeman00
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I built a 30'X40' building a couple yrs. ago.
2X6X14' YP studs 24" on center which gave me
14'6" height on mono-pour. (6" floor and footers one pc.)
R-19 in walls,R-40 attic,vinyl siding,solid sheeted 1/2" osb,
shingle roof w/ 6/12 trusses,2 entrance doors,2 al clad windows
5/8 MR drywall,200 amp service,8X9' OHD w/ opener,
13'6" X12' OHD both doors are 1.5" steel insulated.
Built basicly myself for $11,000, I didn't drive a nail either
(air nailers).
Also wondered about 11" eave ht.
2X6X14' YP studs 24" on center which gave me
14'6" height on mono-pour. (6" floor and footers one pc.)
R-19 in walls,R-40 attic,vinyl siding,solid sheeted 1/2" osb,
shingle roof w/ 6/12 trusses,2 entrance doors,2 al clad windows
5/8 MR drywall,200 amp service,8X9' OHD w/ opener,
13'6" X12' OHD both doors are 1.5" steel insulated.
Built basicly myself for $11,000, I didn't drive a nail either
(air nailers).
Also wondered about 11" eave ht.
