pole barn insulation

[Zerk]

In a building with metal sheeting, I think the only "right" way to do it is spray foam. Metal building cause a lot of condensation, closed cell foam is an excellent moisture and air insulator and it will make your building more rigid.

I got a DIY kit and spray foamed the 14 x 24 Morgan building that we're using as a cabin and it made all the difference in the world. Just an inch of closed cell foam on the walls and roof with R13 and drywall on the walls (ceiling is still open) and we're able to keep it 70* inside when it's 100* outside with 1 12k BTU and 1 8k BTU window unit and they're cycling.

I would strongly suggest finding a way to do at least 1" of closed cell foam on walls and ceiling and then do batt or blown cellulose after that. This is one of those things that is REALLY difficult to change later so an area where you should not skimp on material just to save a few bucks now, the spray foam will pay for itself in time.

It is easy to spend other peoples money. I disagree about what the right way is. Sure some are better, but doesn't mean others are wrong. My house doesn't have sprayed foam, no one I know does, and we are doing ok.

At this time the cost doesn't give me the return I want. Maybe someday on smaller shop that I plan on heating more often. PLus with wood heat, I don't care about losses as much. Though my home is R14 and has propane, and I manage.

I have come up with a unique way of insulating pole barns that you never seem to see many people do but it works very well. I purchase 1 1/2 in thick cheap white foam sheeting. I cut it to fit in between the sheet girts and wedge it in then I cover it with 7/16 OSB or Drywall or whatever you want. Gives you about R7 and works very well against radiant heat from the sun. Seals up nice so you don't have as much of a problem dealing with critters getting behind your false walls. Some people get all freaked out because it's only R 7 instead of R13 but then they have huge doors with only an inch of insulation in it. This method works well because most of your heat loss will be through openings around the door or out the ceiling anyways and this provides a very good thermal barrier against the hot sun and prevents many moisture related issues. You could always come back and add false walls after-the-fact if you find you need even more insulation but doubt you will.

I am starting to think about this. Pink board is about $25, which drives up cost, but might be better for being in contact with metal.

This is my camp, maybe home some day, got lots of fun stuff I want to be doing when there, I am only there on weekends and vacation. This would be real quick. Could always add more later. Wouldn't have to box in the transparent panels, to let light in. Price isn't great, but not buying 2x4s to build some type of framing.

As stated ceilng is where the insulation does the most good. Many homes only have R14, with 2x4 walls, poly board would be R10.

Foil board is cheaper I think. Not sure which way the foil should go. Typically in for heating, which leaves backside on metal, maybe rot. You said the other way to keep heat out. Around here vapor barrier goes inside.


Other reason I would like this, is it leaves poles exposed to mount stuff on, and you can recess your benches and shelves 5". Not a big deal unless you park in there. Couple times I have had my truck in, I was surprised how tight a 9' door is to the wall, around 30".

Wood girts would not have insulation, other then whatever R factor of wood is, but neither do studs in our house.

I am just thinking of doing one wall for now.

 

[tman1020]

Our local Menards has the inch and a half white foam on sale right now for 9.99 a sheet. I don't think the white foam is as good as a freestanding foamboard compared to the foil faced or the pink or blue stuff(One is an open cell one is a closed cell) But when it's encapsulated this way I don't see much of a problem. Your garage doors normally use the same type of white foam just thinner. I don't think a vapor barrier is necessary with this method but you could always create one if you desire with visquine before you put up the sheeting.

 

[Clay45]

Isn't the styrofoam white board a fire hazard? Not sure but I believe some foam boards are. You may want to research more before lining your barn with it.

 

[tman1020]

Isn't the styrofoam white board a fire hazard? Not sure but I believe some foam boards are. You may want to research more before lining your barn with it.

It is a more flammable product than fiberglass it

It's the same insulation they put in garage doors.

 

[KennyG]

Isn't the styrofoam white board a fire hazard? Not sure but I believe some foam boards are. You may want to research more before lining your barn with it.

I believe any insulation needs to be covered to meet fire codes. Styrofoam is probably more flammable than the dense closed cell foams, but none are allowed to be exposed. Cellulose is treated with a fire retardant but, along with fiberglass, can't be exposed.

 

[turbo36]

In a building with metal sheeting, I think the only "right" way to do it is spray foam. Metal building cause a lot of condensation, closed cell foam is an excellent moisture and air insulator and it will make your building more rigid.

I got a DIY kit and spray foamed the 14 x 24 Morgan building that we're using as a cabin and it made all the difference in the world. Just an inch of closed cell foam on the walls and roof with R13 and drywall on the walls (ceiling is still open) and we're able to keep it 70* inside when it's 100* outside with 1 12k BTU and 1 8k BTU window unit and they're cycling.

I would strongly suggest finding a way to do at least 1" of closed cell foam on walls and ceiling and then do batt or blown cellulose after that. This is one of those things that is REALLY difficult to change later so an area where you should not skimp on material just to save a few bucks now, the spray foam will pay for itself in time.

This is a great way to do it, the foam will make the building very air tight and prevent moisture migration from outside. I have two 40' x 60' buildings that are identical in size and construction size except for height, one has 12' ceilings and the other has 16' ceilings. I insulated the 12' building with 6" batts in the wall but chose to do 3" closed cell foam in the 16' building. The 16' is significantly cheaper to heat and the humidity levels are lower. I had to install a large commercial de-humidifier in the 12' building to prevent mold growth. in the 16' building I just have a couple of cheap de-humifiers that don't run much.

 

[the old grind]

My take on insulating barn walls includes understanding that to some extent the building's contents will have to be warmed or kept warm. (Think thermal mass, but not to discourage insulating.)

Considering that metal walls have more surface area to them that the wall-space they cover and are highly conductive IMO that's like starting from R -5 until you put anything up that covers the metal and reduces convection along the walls. I suggest that a first insulation 'layer', however thick or thin, will go far and that intermittent heating doesn't benefit so much from high R values. (see par 1)

That said, if the building is to be heated full time eventually you'd want to do each wall (& someday the ceiling) to your R goal from day one. 2x4 framing for batts or covering 6" posts seems overkill, as suggested by OP, but f-glass is cheap to install if one doesn't mind the inevitable drafty nooks & crannies or critters nesting behind the walls. Pink/blue panels* can be 'layered-up' as funds are available, and non-expanding foam is your friend with them. (* Pink is my #1 alternate to f-glass)

Drywall sucks in buildings that aren't 'comfort-controlled' 24/7/365. OSB is the way to go, can be sealed or painted, ... and like drywall usually doesn't need 3 dozen nails/sheet if it might someday be removed for servicing wiring or insulation. 1/2" OSB will hold up a lot of ceiling insulation, sag less that drywall if ever damp/humid, and is a lot easier to put up. (joints can be battened with thinner/cheaper stuff, & one gets quite a few 2-3" strips from a 4' x 8' sheet.) My $.13 tog