Pole barn - closing in the ends

[rick1ryan]

I'm continuing work on my 40X90X10 pole barn. Have closed in the long sides and starting on closing the ends. Wanted to get some opinions on whether what I'm doing is good or will be a problem. I've anchored 2X4s to the floor then attached 2X4s to the purlins on the roof, just outside the last steel truss. I'm using 2-3, 4" construction screws. I then cut a single piece of 2X4 and toe-nail it into the floor and the ceiling pieces. Finally, am attaching T1-11 on the outside with house wrap underneath. Your thoughts?

 

[Barnbuilder]

It doesn't look like your studs are on any common spacing? Like 16" or 24". And there isn't one on the joint of the T1-11. Arent you concerned the joint will open?

 

[duffer]

You should definitely have a stud behind the joint. Barnbuilder is right. That joint twill open up in time (sooner rather than later, even if it's tongue & groove). I would also suggest adding perlins between your studs, due to the height of them.

I noticed you didn't install any sky-lite roofing. And I don't see any windows on the long side of the barn. You might want to consider adding some type of windows for a little natural light. I think you might regret it if you don't. From your picture it appears the barn is rather remote and may not have elec run to it. Could be pretty dark inside when you're done.

 

[snymat68]

Pressure treated lumber should be used where contacting the ground. Will hold up much longer. Not sure of your location though. You should add it to your info on the left.

 

[Diggin It]

In addition to the above, I don't see an end board on the purlins to keep them from twisting/warping.

 

[Diggin It]

Typical construction would be a 2x4 treated sill attached to the concrete floor. Then the wall would be constructed laying flat on the ground. Bottom and top plates through nailed to the studs on 16 or 24" centers with at least the end T-1-11 panels nailed in place to square everything up. Then, the whole wall section hoisted into place and secured, sitting on top of the treated sill. Usually, anything above 8' would be another section, but not always.

And yea, windows.

Final thought .... I would be using metal panels for the walls instead of T-1-11. Far more durable over time.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Do you not have ANY codes to go by since your going to be charging people for the use of the building?

Also no reason to start a new thread for every step your doing, just keep adding to the original. Let’s people follow the entire build from start to finish.

 

[Diggin It]

If this is the event barn, it needs to be done much differently.

 

[countrybumpkin]

He is planning on renting it out for weddings and such.

 

[rick1ryan]

You should definitely have a stud behind the joint. Barnbuilder is right. That joint twill open up in time (sooner rather than later, even if it's tongue & groove). I would also suggest adding perlins between your studs, due to the height of them.

I noticed you didn't install any sky-lite roofing. And I don't see any windows on the long side of the barn. You might want to consider adding some type of windows for a little natural light. I think you might regret it if you don't. From your picture it appears the barn is rather remote and may not have elec run to it. Could be pretty dark inside when you're done.

On the stud spacing, how can I say it? Oh yea, I suck with a tape measure. I ended up putting a 2X4 backer on the joints. I'm planning to come back and caulk and put a 1X4 over the top of each joint, especially in front. As for skylights, don't want them. One of the items we offer is specialized lighting. I likely will come back and install windows but unsure on how many at this point.

 

[rick1ryan]

Do you not have ANY codes to go by since your going to be charging people for the use of the building?

Also no reason to start a new thread for every step your doing, just keep adding to the original. Let’s people follow the entire build from start to finish.

When I started this, there were zero codes or rules to follow. This is in a rural setting. I did get a surprise call, a couple of weeks ago, from the State Fire Marshal. They've decided they will start doing inspections but after talking, he said my requirements will be minimal. He wants an architectural drawing (which I've already gotten) to show doors, exit signs and fire extinguishers. I dodged sprinklers by about 10 feet on the size. Once I get those items in place, I'll have him out for an inspection. As for the end boards on the purlins, that's one of the "to do" items. I'm doing a sizable chunk of the work myself but making progress. Keep in mind also that I live 180 miles away and can only work on weekends where we don't have events scheduled (we do wedding photography and DJ). There won't be much going on until November, when the schedule slows down. Thanks for the input.

 

[Barnbuilder]

Hook your tape at the beginning of wall and mark 15-1/4" or 23-1/4" that will be the beginning edge of your first stud. Add 16" or 24" there after. If you do this to a standard its going to make your life easier in the long run.

 

[sodamo]

Don’t even have to really measure after the first as a good tape has an arrow indicator every 16 inches.