Planters Planter question....(Indydirtfarmer?)
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ZJ_HR
Gold Member
kensfarm
Veteran Member
Wow.. the fertilizer containers seem pretty large compared to the seed containers.(Compared to an old JD 2-row planter) Why is extra weight needed.. the weight of the planter itself should be good for 2-inch depth.. the ground you are planting.. looks worked up good. Though I know rocks will make the planter jump up some. Are you planting corn?
Indydirtfarmer
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Wow.. the fertilizer containers seem pretty large compared to the seed containers.(Compared to an old JD 2-row planter) Why is extra weight needed.. the weight of the planter itself should be good for 2-inch depth.. the ground you are planting.. looks worked up good. Though I know rocks will make the planter jump up some. Are you planting corn? )</font>
A little confusion on my part...???? When I'm refering to weight needed, that's in no-till situations. It's hard to keep a rolling disc opener at a constant depth without adiquate weight. It's not just a matter of getting the disc opener to penetrate the soil, it's KEEPING it at that depth through hard spots.
The photos showing the planter on worked soil aren't mine. Although.... When I use my #71 planters, it's USUALLY in tilled soil. Then the issue is keeping the disc openers from running TOO DEEP. (I use "depth bands" on the disc openers to maintain that depth.)
A little confusion on my part...???? When I'm refering to weight needed, that's in no-till situations. It's hard to keep a rolling disc opener at a constant depth without adiquate weight. It's not just a matter of getting the disc opener to penetrate the soil, it's KEEPING it at that depth through hard spots.
The photos showing the planter on worked soil aren't mine. Although.... When I use my #71 planters, it's USUALLY in tilled soil. Then the issue is keeping the disc openers from running TOO DEEP. (I use "depth bands" on the disc openers to maintain that depth.)
Farwell
Veteran Member
Mike,
Looks a lot like the horse drawn conversion that I spent hours and hours sitting on as a kid. We had 80 acres and generally had around 12 acres planted with corn. My job was to monitor the hoppers and shut the feeds off on turns. Never used it but we also had the wire knot trippers on a reel underneath the metal seat that I sat on. I think I have fond memories of those days.
Looks a lot like the horse drawn conversion that I spent hours and hours sitting on as a kid. We had 80 acres and generally had around 12 acres planted with corn. My job was to monitor the hoppers and shut the feeds off on turns. Never used it but we also had the wire knot trippers on a reel underneath the metal seat that I sat on. I think I have fond memories of those days.
ZJ_HR
Gold Member
As you can see from attached 3rd pic, we don't have any rocks. Originally planter had seed containers double size then it has now. Containers can accept seed up to 2 acres. That works for us, as we don't have bigger pieces of soil. We lowered it approx 8" due to slopes, and easier fertilizer filling. Each box can accept about 30 kg (65 lbs) of fertilizer.
Add weight is usuall necessary to close planted rows, and not allways.
Yes, we use that planter only for corn, and on pic is corn planting. Distance between rows is 70cm (28in). This is common distance here, and all picker and corn heads are set up for it.
Here nobody do NO TILL planting, so I don't know what equippment is necessary for that procedure.
We plow in autumn, up to now disk in spring and till.
This year we start to using tiller instead of disk, and will se results. Seems that tiller better cover residues, and not cause planter clodging.
I'm open to any suggestion to improve our way of working /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Add weight is usuall necessary to close planted rows, and not allways.
Yes, we use that planter only for corn, and on pic is corn planting. Distance between rows is 70cm (28in). This is common distance here, and all picker and corn heads are set up for it.
Here nobody do NO TILL planting, so I don't know what equippment is necessary for that procedure.
We plow in autumn, up to now disk in spring and till.
This year we start to using tiller instead of disk, and will se results. Seems that tiller better cover residues, and not cause planter clodging.
I'm open to any suggestion to improve our way of working /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
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PineRidge
Super Member
Farwell I do believe that the Allis planter was originally designed to be pulled by a horse. It originally had a very large and heavily made eye that was on a vertical plane for attachment purposes. Who ever had it before me made the transformation to a 3 point and seemed to do a pretty decent job of it.
We would always do as others have suggested and till before using the planter. There was an adjustment that you could set the depth of the planted seed and it was pretty accurate if used in tilled soil.
The fertilizer seemed to come out a bit on the heavy side but I would rather have a bit more than to little when putting the seed in the ground.
We would always do as others have suggested and till before using the planter. There was an adjustment that you could set the depth of the planted seed and it was pretty accurate if used in tilled soil.
The fertilizer seemed to come out a bit on the heavy side but I would rather have a bit more than to little when putting the seed in the ground.
Farwell
Veteran Member
Mike,
We always tilled the soil prior to planting any of our crops. I am amazed when I look back and recall the quality of crops that we grew every year. When I left the farm I was 14 and they were starting to talk about not plowing the corn fields prior to planting. Guess the corn stalks didn't offer much to the soil when turned under. We also rotated crops every year and every fifth year we would plant clover, let the field set until we plowed the clover under and kept the field worked until the next year and then planted a crop.
We always tilled the soil prior to planting any of our crops. I am amazed when I look back and recall the quality of crops that we grew every year. When I left the farm I was 14 and they were starting to talk about not plowing the corn fields prior to planting. Guess the corn stalks didn't offer much to the soil when turned under. We also rotated crops every year and every fifth year we would plant clover, let the field set until we plowed the clover under and kept the field worked until the next year and then planted a crop.
Slamfire
Veteran Member
You seem to be doin' alright, a full corn crib, plenty of bean poles, a fine crop of dandelions and a relative willin' to work for his dinner. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
kensfarm
Veteran Member
Looks very nice!
"Seems that tiller better cover residues, and not cause planter clodging."
I found that true too.. but sometimes it's easier to till.. if the field's been run over once w/ the disc.
I use a 2-row corn planter too.. but this year we've experimented and also planted beans, pumkins, and winter squash w/ the same planter.. same spacing. We did plant the Lima beans by hand.. seeds are too fat.
"Seems that tiller better cover residues, and not cause planter clodging."
I found that true too.. but sometimes it's easier to till.. if the field's been run over once w/ the disc.
I use a 2-row corn planter too.. but this year we've experimented and also planted beans, pumkins, and winter squash w/ the same planter.. same spacing. We did plant the Lima beans by hand.. seeds are too fat.