Pick up dump bed

HalseyGreen · Apr 26, 2002

I just got an EZ-Dumper for my Ford F350, had to go this route because of the gooseneck hitch would be in the way of the sissor lift systems. Only pain is that I have to remove it to use the gooseneck trailer. Made the installation/removal easier by making new bed bolts using all thread connectors and a little welding so the EZ-Dumper hold downs could be removed without removing the bed bolts. Its all my little JD 790 can do to lift the EZ-Dumper with the forks. When I have some loading/hauling to do, I load the EZ-Dumper on the Trailer with the tractor, then load the tractor, get to the job, unload the tractor, unhook the trailer, load the EZ-Dumper, and to work, reverse the process to get everything home. Maybe I should look at converting the EZ-Dumper to a trailer. Don't anyone tell me I should have gotten the trailer model instead of the insert - got the insert (new) for $535 at a bankrupcy auction by a bank. That's another story, the unit was missing the power unit and installation kit, which was later discovered in a shed full of stuff, and they just handed it to me. Everyone has a little good luck once in a while.

billfires · Apr 26, 2002

HalseyGreen, would it be possible to cut out the bottom of the dump bed and maybe hinge a plate over it? I have seen this in dumping flatbed trucks. Just a thought.

Bill C

cedarranch · Apr 26, 2002

Curious! How does the dump bed effect using a bumper pull trailer?

ns_in_tex · Apr 27, 2002

This probably does not fit your application, but I did something I have not seen before and was told it would not work, but it has. I carry a flat tool box in the bed of my truck 4'wide by 4-1/2' long by 6" high, with 4 4-1/2' rolling drawers in it. I did not want to have to remove this when hooking up to my gooseneck trailer.
Solution:
I built a cross bar frame above the tool box, attached it by sandwiching about 3' of the top side of the pickup bed between 2 pieces of angle iron.
Trial run was moving 64 round bales of hay about 20 miles, 8 at a time. This was in 1988. Since then have moved it from truck to truck and don't worry about the load, except can the trailer carry it all right.
If anyone thinks this might help them, I will take pictures.
It does require drilling 4ea 1/2" holes in the top rail of the pickup bed on each side, which are covered as long as the mount is attached. When I am ready to sell the truck, just purchased pickup bed trim kit to cover these holes.

pfoxy · Apr 27, 2002

On mine, the bumper pivots with the bed, so bumper-towing is out. The bumper hooks to the pivot plates for the bed, not the frame.

I went to a frame-mount Reese hitch, which is a much better way to tow anyway.

HalseyGreen · Apr 27, 2002

Billfires - Had the same thought, but the hydraulic cylinder for the dump is in the way of the gooseneck hitch. I have a B&W Turnover, so the ball is tucked away below the bed. I'll just have to keep on removing it when I need to tow.

ewoss3 · May 4, 2002

our kit was made to be mounted so the bumper would also swing. We modified so the rear bumper is fixed and the bed lifts from the frame. You have to get out and clear off the rear bumper before hitting the street but still allows us to tow just fine

Rover · May 21, 2002

Glen,
Don't know if you want the cheap route, but you can get a 3PH reciever kit and use you 3PH to dump the pickup bed.

Hey, it works and its a nice thing to have. Had to do a brake service on one of my trailers. Blocked the back of the trailer and lifted the whole thing up.

Rover

Dozernut · May 21, 2002

My neighbor took the dump apparatus off a grain wagon that was junk and mounted it on his flat bed, one ton truck. He picked the wagon up at an auction for the parts. He had a pump he mounted on his truck that was powered by a fan belt. The hydraulic cylinder was a one way, but I don't remember if he plumbed for it or replaced the cylinder. He has used the dump quite hard and has not had any problems. I don't believe he has over $200.00 in the whole rig.

knucklehead · May 24, 2002

Pfoxy beat me to it, but I second the advice to add a subframe, plus one other caution. I looked at a truck a few weeks ago that had only used the factory cross braces, and after countless loads of wood/loam/etc, things look pretty much ready to pop. The headboard is completely separated from the bed floor. I think there is an unavoidable temptation to overload the sheetmetal bodies once it becomes easier to unload them. Common sense, and a little thinking ahead, as pfoxy illustrates, is neccesary. It would be nice to reinforce the headboard/bed connection, too.

Those EZ Dumper type units look nice, but they sure cut down on bed space. I owned a one-ton with the standard aftermarket steel dump body, and that was hard to reach over the sides, and heavy - too heavy, in my opinion. I'll go for the flat bed next time, too, with short, solid sides for loose heavy material, and the regular stake sides for other, bulkier stuff.

I really like pfoxy's idea to relocate the power unit to a better location, where it remains unmunged.

Mark