I used mineral spirits to clean the parts, scuffed with a 220 grit foam pad, then warmed, primed and painted all within about an hour. Leaving the stuff to sit overnight to ensure the paint gets a good cure.
Side topic - that cylindrical part pictured in the OP has internal threads at both ends where the upper and lower part of the lift arm go.
The bottom lift arm has a hole cross drilled with a pin in it, so that you can't accidentally unscrew the assembly too far and let it fall off. The guy at the dealer told me it was going to be a pain to line it up with the grease fitting hole and tap it fully inside the threads so that it could be removed.
I tried for a while and finally gave up. I figured that I could unscrew it as far as I could, then cut off the central body and screw the "bolt" back in all the way (which would be above the cut off body) to remove the pin.
So I did, and I did. But I discovered that there was no way I was ever going to have done it the way I was trying. I thought the pin was, say 1/8" shorter than the diameter of the bolt, and it was installed so that it stuck out enough to prevent unscrewing the bolt. Therefore one would need to tap it back in from the side it was sticking out.
Turns out that, while it is a standard roll pin, it's a loose fit in the hole, and is about 1/4" longer than the diameter of the pin. The only way to get it out would be to line it up with the grease fitting hole and somehow get it to "fall" out. However, since everything is caked with grease, I don't see that ever happening unless maybe you heated the whole thing up enough to melt the grease. Or, maybe (just maybe) if you put a tiny hook on the end of a very thin wire, and you could thread it through the center of the roll pin, you could catch the far end and pull it out.