overwhelmed...

[whsnyderiii]

I hate to just start threads that have no defined purpose. I totally get the forum rules...search first, read, then post...but I'm swimming with questions and spring is coming fast (when I will need to working this machine and not thinking/reading about it).

I guess I will start with, I need to read an owners/operators manual. I found some links that appear to work that will basically give me an owners manual. I can't access them from my government server but when I tried them from my phone they worked. When I get home, I will confirm this on my computer.

I don't know for sure what year my tractor is. This seems important, especially when looking for parts. Is there a way to break down the serial number to figure this out? Like you can for a car? QUESTION 1

How do I figure out what sort of flow/pressure my hydraulic system pushes? Is this in the manual? I assume it is, but wasn't sure.

I was going to add a second set of remotes, so I can add a TnT to the rear, but this seems cost prohibitive (to me at least) because I would rather spend that money on implements. I don't know if there is real reason that I would want to be able to operate two different functions simultaneously, so I thought just getting a splitter would be a more economical way to go.

I'm mostly working my land...cutting trails, working my gravel driveway, moving stuff from place to place, "mowing" my drainfield... Again, I don't see a need for anything beyond a splitter, but any "hey you might wanna get a XXX attachement and then you will wish you had second set of remotes." QUESTION 2

Thanks in advance.

 

[Soundguy]

your pressure should be right around 2500 psi.. that's a standard ag pressure rating.. flow, as said, according to your pump displacement and rpm.

 

[teg]

Tractors are more about model numbers vs. year made.

Your tractor manual should have specs. for pressure and flow. It wasn't really listed at tractordata.com

I've bought 90% of my implements used... it takes time and helps if you are in a "good" location. Being quick and ready to pick items up, help. If I would suggest an implement, it would be a bucket grapple to pick up piles of branches. Makes easy / short work of it. Paid $350 for my used one. Adding extra hydraulic spools to power that and TnT - was expensive.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-bucket-grapple-questions-p1010200grapple-jpg

 

[whsnyderiii]

Tractors are more about model numbers vs. year made.

It sounds like you are saying all I really need to know is that I have a DK45C, yes?

Adding extra hydraulic spools to power that and TnT - was expensive.

Roger... and it would seem that a splitter of one kind or another would allow control of any one of these, albeit one at a time, correct?

 

[VictorW]

Your build year for that tractor will be told by the serial number. Please advise the letter that should be the first character which tells the year. Also, Kioti sometimes made a change mid year and you'll need the entire serial number to get the right part.

All the 45s should be close on hydraulic flow and pressure but the year will be helpful.

Second remote or splitter/diverter...I'd go by cost as you mentioned.

 

[ritcheyvs]

There was a kit to add a second set of rear hydraulic remotes costing about $300. But I assume your tractor is 2005 or earlier (see this link) and those old kits will be hard to impossible to find now.

The other option is an electric diverter valve that lets you switch the existing remote to operate two (or more) things, one at a time. Those are custom setups that start around $600-700.

If you do much work with a box blade, a hydraulic topping lift is VERY useful. The hydraulic tilt is good too but mainly when you need to tilt the trail to one side for drainage or if you need to level a tilted trail.

As mentioned, a grapple is super for moving any kind of foliage. I wish I had one. The grapple WILL require a hydraulic remote: either long hoses to the rear or a diverter valve in one of the loader circuits or a third function valve.

 

[Fallon]

I don't use multiple spools at once much at all, but I love using float on the top or side link. That can be problematic or impossible with a diverter, depending on your setup.

As others noted, its model & occasionally serial number that matters for tractors, not year. They track minor changes in a given model based on serial number range & those occur as needed rather than on an annual basis.

 

[MossRoad]

I totally get the forum rules...search first, read, then post...

I've been on here at TBN since 2001.... there are no such rules! They're more like guidelines. :laughing:

Sure, pretty much everything that's ever been thought of has already been discussed and you may be able to find it in a search. But if you can't or aren't so inclined, let's discuss it again. Someone will find links to the previous discussions and post em. Its all about helping each other out. Pull up a chair. Ask as much as you feel you need to.

 

[1965]

TractorData.com provides years made and specs on most tractors, just type in the make on the left and go. It will bring up a list of models and years made to select from however it doesn't have a list of serial numbers for our Kiotis.

 

[whsnyderiii]

I've been on here at TBN since 2001.... there are no such rules! They're more like guidelines. :laughing:

Sure, pretty much everything that's ever been thought of has already been discussed and you may be able to find it in a search. But if you can't or aren't so inclined, let's discuss it again. Someone will find links to the previous discussions and post em. Its all about helping each other out. Pull up a chair. Ask as much as you feel you need to.

Hmmmmm... this is NOT most forum etiquette. I appreciate it. I do try initially to find it on my own, the problem is when you find 5 and 6 page threads on the list which started out not talking about whatever problem you are trying to solve but may (or may not) mention your issue somewhere within. Nice to know there aren't a bunch of forum gestapo types out there. Some other forums can be evil (i.e. I'm living off grid now and trying to get information on solar forums is annoying).

Anyway, thanks. Looks like a diverter is really the way to go.

My intention is to get a top and tilt (probably MIEs), hook up the top link (with the one set of remotes I have) and just leave the hydraulic tilt off for now until I can get around to figuring out a set up for adding a set of remotes.

In a related story, since I couldn't work the driveway without a hydraulic top link, I worked the road (it's basically level so a regular top link was fine) with the box blade and it was super easy. Results were impressive. I actually cancelled a load of stone I was having delivered. I told my wife it took all day and she believed me. But...that wasn't exactly true and I got some time to play with some other tools marked Hornady and RCBS.