Outlets wired backwards

[tallyho8]

I have been using these push in connectors from Ideal for several years. I really like them over wire nuts. However, they are only big enough for 12 gauge and smaller, so the OP with 10 won't be able to use them.

IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. - In-Sure Push-In Wire Connectors

The #39 handles 10 gauge wire.

 

[ray66v]

MossRoad:

20 amp receptacles are a good idea because they offer better quality connection. But, I have never been required to use a 20 amp receptacle, on a 20 amp circuit, unless it was dedicated for a particular high current device.

A 15 amp receptacle will handle the current in the event of a short, because it does not have to do so for very long.

Even a flimsy lamp cord can withstand 20 amps+ long enough to trip a properly working circuit breaker.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I read your reply But my concern was 13.5 Amp A/C that pulls 40.5 amps on start up on a cheap 15 amp outlet on a #12 wire and 20 amp breaker.
So this morning I went to Lowe's and checked around there are appliances that pull 13-14 amps with 15 amp plugs,I went to the tool dept Dewalt planer 15 amp rating 15 amp plug.I then went over to the mig welders 19.5 amp 15 amp plug, so according to you this is ok,Not for me you do what you want I will do it the right way #12 wire 20 amp plug 20 amp breaker!
With the cheapness and poor quality of all of electrical products that are sold today I'll stay with the highest rating possible.

My only concern was the comment that there were a lot of glaring mistakes thru out the posts. I didn't see any and was wondering what I missed. Going with all 20A outlets on 12 GA wire is good, but using 15A outlets on 12 GA wire as permitted by code is still not a glaring mistake. Just for fun I went and fired up my Makita planer, rated 12A on the nameplate, plugged into a kill A watt meter plugged into a 15A receptacle on a 20A circuit. On startup I saw it reach 11.5A, then ran at 5A. I didn't have a breakout box to put my amp probe on to record the actual startup current, but all motors start at a high initial current for a few cycles, way above 20A.
concerning bending the wire to put under the screw, the end of most wire strippers have a handy way to grab the wire and bend it over, making it pretty easy.
Thanks for the link on the push in wire connectors from Ideal.

 

[aczlan]

Whenever possible (especially when wiring a 20 amp circuit) I put the wires together in a wire nut (ie: if I have a outlet in the middle of a 20 amp circuit I have Power in, Power out and Power to the outlet together in a wire nut, same for Neutral and Ground (each in their own wire nuts))

The reason for this: if you have 3 6 amp devices plugged into 15 amp outlets and running on a 20 amp circuit you are ok on the individual plugs but if you use the outlet to run the circuit through EACH outlet has to handle the whole 18 amps instead of just having to handle the load on that outlet.

Aaron Z

 

[ray66v]

Whenever possible (especially when wiring a 20 amp circuit) I put the wires together in a wire nut (ie: if I have a outlet in the middle of a 20 amp circuit I have Power in, Power out and Power to the outlet together in a wire nut, same for Neutral and Ground (each in their own wire nuts))

The reason for this: if you have 3 6 amp devices plugged into 15 amp outlets and running on a 20 amp circuit you are ok on the individual plugs but if you use the outlet to run the circuit through EACH outlet has to handle the whole 18 amps instead of just having to handle the load on that outlet.

Aaron Z

That way of doing things was a very good idea back when the receptacles had simple push in connections.

Today, the screw terminals, and bridge connectors, on the 15 amp receptacles can handle the 20 amp load. And would in my opinion, provide a better connection than a wire nut.

The 15 amp limitation is on the female plug in the receptacle.

If the feed through restricted the current flow, then 15 amp receptacles would never be allowed to be used on 20 amp circuits, because the bridge connector would become a fuse.

 

[JB4310]

I passed an inspection by the state and a pre inspection by a professional electrician. I'm not an electrician but specifically asked this question since I always wire with 12 gauge.

I see what you are saying, you can always suck more than 15 amps through a 15 amp outlet with the proper splitters and power strips. The outlet could be asked to pass more than 15 amps.

I think you folks are right. It is more logical to match the outlet rating to the CB rating.

Highbeam, I was wrong, just spent an hour reading about this.
The 15 amp and 20 amp receptacles have the exact same capacity so don't feel your system might of benefited from using the 20 amp outlets.
The only difference is in the slot configuration, the reason for the 2 different ratings is that that the 20 amp outlets can not be used on 15 amp circuits, so if you see a 20 amp outlet you can be assured it's a twenty amp circuit and you could plug that specific 20 amp cord in. (been around for a while and have yet to see one of those 20 amp male cord ends)

I learned that as long as there is more than one receptacle on the 20 amp circuit it's ok to use 15 amp outlet, so a typical duplex receptacle would be considered more than one and ok

The exception here is that it appears that kitchens, baths and laundry areas would still need the 20 amp slot configuration, not 100% sure about this though.

That way of doing things was a very good idea back when the receptacles had simple push in connections.

Today, the screw terminals, and bridge connectors, on the 15 amp receptacles can handle the 20 amp load. And would in my opinion, provide a better connection than a wire nut.

The 15 amp limitation is on the female plug in the receptacle.

If the feed through restricted the current flow, then 15 amp receptacles would never be allowed to be used on 20 amp circuits, because the bridge connector would become a fuse.

What your saying about the 15 amp limit being just related to neutral slot configuration, is what I just spent an hour learning about and finally makes sense to me.
Could never figure out why on the 15 amp GFI's that it said on them that they were rated for 20 amp feed-thru or load. Now I know it has nothing to do with the devices capacity as they are exactly the same, but more about protecting a 15 amp circuit from plugging in a 20 amp cord.

As far as your other point about using a regular duplex receptacle for feed through, I'm still learning about that but appears that is is allowed as long as its only 110 volt and not multi circuits in the box?

Though it's allowed I don't think it's a "better" connection than a wire-nut/pigtail since there is apparently more resistance through the receptacle. It's just a tiny amount but could become an issue if gone through 10 outlets like that. I'm still researching this.

Back to the 20 vs 15A outlets and GFI's now I Know the 20's just cost more and offer zero added capacity, especially the GFI's, those can be considerably more $$$
So the bottom line is, on 15 amp circuits you must use 15 amp outlets but on 20 amp circuits you can use 15 or 20 amp outlets

JB.

 

[ray66v]

Though it's allowed I don't think it's a "better" connection than a wire-nut/pigtail since there is apparently more resistance through the receptacle. It's just a tiny amount but could become an issue if gone through 10 outlets like that. I'm still researching this.
JB.

No the resistance is not an issue. If it was there would be limitations.

A properly sized, and installed, wire nut is a good acceptable connection.

Wire nuts can also easily be improperly installed, and then wires can loosen from moving them during installation and or repairs. This problem is compounded when your using a wire nut to connect more than two wires.

Nothing is going to beat a good tight screw connection, because it is not subject to these problems. No matter how much you move those wires, or what someone uses to cram them into an undersized box, they stay tight.

 

[JB4310]

Nothing is going to beat a good tight screw connection, because it is not subject to these problems. No matter how much you move those wires, or what someone uses to cram them into an undersized box, they stay tight.

I have seen loose wires under screws. When renovating and upgrading my house I found several loose screws on outlets.
Not sure how a screw would come loose in an environment where nothing is moving, but this was after 65 years though.

These old boxes had splices in them, the old soldered and taped (western union?)


JB.

 

[Egon]

[I have seen loose wires under screws.

Thermal expansion/contraction. The aluminum wires were bad for this.

 

[Willl]

I have seen loose wires under screws.

Same here, 'bout 6-8 months ago wifey said the light switch in her room/shop was making buzzing type noises.

Pop it out and before I retightened I turned it on just for grins. Neat little teeny-tiny arc show going on.