Ordering a new F350 soon

[Groo]

it will be a farm/woods truck with a gas engine, automatic, SWR with a standard cab and 4x4.

any options that are must haves or must avoids?

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get the built in brake controller and if going gas spend $600 and get the V-10. After that they are just bells and whistles.

Chris

 

[Builder]

Extended warranty.

 

[IllMarty1]

If you are going to tow, get the dealer to upgrade your hitch to 12000 Lb. weight carrying hitch., not the standard 6500 lb weight carrying.

 

[JasG]

Limited slip/locking rear, all terrain tires, and make sure the tires are rated for the load of the heaviest axle. When I ordered a truck I had to check off a bumper, they are not standard equip. Off road package, gives upgraded shocks and the skid pans. Trailer tow is always a good thing, better cooling.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looking again at the suggestions, and there are many good ones, I would agree with them. My 2006 F-350 4x4 came with the worst tires I have ever had so make sure you get good ones. Make sure you get good AT tires. Limited slip is a must along with the trailer tow package and I would still go for the brake controller, V10, and heavier hitch (the 2.5" unit). It will soon be the standard on HD trucks like the current 2" units are now. Also know that all 350's are built the same when it comes to suspension. Sounds like you are getting a work truck so get the heaviest GVWR package you can. My 2006 SRW 4x4 Diesel has 11,500#. I did not buy it for the ride.

Chris

 

[Builder]

Looking again at the suggestions, and there are many good ones, I would agree with them. My 2006 F-350 4x4 came with the worst tires I have ever had so make sure you get good ones. Make sure you get good AT tires. Limited slip is a must along with the trailer tow package and I would still go for the brake controller, V10, and heavier hitch (the 2.5" unit). It will soon be the standard on HD trucks like the current 2" units are now. Also know that all 350's are built the same when it comes to suspension. Sounds like you are getting a work truck so get the heaviest GVWR package you can. My 2006 SRW 4x4 Diesel has 11,500#. I did not buy it for the ride.

Chris

Really? I thought there was a lot of variability in Ford suspension front spring ratings. Last time I flipped through their '07 & '08 sales brochures, they had several front spring ratings from 5,000-6,000 lbs. They typically were assigned a letter code like "V", "X", etc. Might even be in the VIN.

One of my F-350's came with 5,200lb "V" front spring rating. I pulled them out and installed 6,000lb front springs which were part of the plow package and installed them. They had a code name "X".

 

[Diamondpilot]

Really? I thought there was a lot of variability in Ford suspension front spring ratings. Last time I flipped through their '07 & '08 sales brochures, they had several front spring ratings from 5,000-6,000 lbs. They typically were assigned a letter code like "V", "X", etc. Might even be in the VIN.

One of my F-350's came with 5,200lb "V" front spring rating. I pulled them out and installed 6,000lb front springs which were part of the plow package and installed them. They had a code name "X".

You are 100% correct. I meant to say "are NOT built the same". Sorry for the confusion but leave it to Builder to find any error I may make.

Chris

 

[Builder]

You are 100% correct. I meant to say "are NOT built the same". Sorry for the confusion but leave it to Builder to find any error I may make.

Chris

When I see an error, I correct it. I expect others to do the same to me here, and believe me, they do.

 

[CurlyDave]

Think about getting even the smallest extended cab.

For me, the ability to lock high-value tools inside the truck rather than leaving them exposed to theft in the bed is very valuable.

Also, I was in a standard cab truck when I was rear-ended by a smallish car (it was going pretty fast). My head went back, hit the window, and I was knocked out, even with headrests.

 

[Groo]

looks like for the most part my thoughts were inline with yours.

The V10 (not worried about fuel efficiency, the truck it is replacing averaged less than 2,000 miles a year) comes with a limited slip, and I was also going to get traction controle. I'm planning on new tires very quick, possibly new tires and rims.
I was planning on the off road package, but just because that looks like the only way to get skid plates

I'm leaning towards no on the extended cab its an extra $3885 sticker, and I'm also thinking of getting boxes built in under a dump bed. theft isn't a big problem.
I plan on removing the bed and getting a dumpbed. The money saved on the bed delete is so small (especialy since you lose your spare too) that I figured I could sell the bed for more

I don't see any tow packages, unless its part of the built in brake controler.
seams a bit overpriced, but its nice to have Ford deal with it if there are electrical problems. I figure a class 4 hitch is standard. I'll probably see if the factory hitch bends on me before getting a class 5. It'll be taking over for a truck with a class 4 hitch that hasn't had problems there.

the bells and wistles I'm looking at are tilt, cuise and a better radio package, along with pushbutton 4x4 (no sticks in the floor) and a cloth bench seat.
I may get 4.30 gears instead of 4.10.

more good news, It looks like I'll be able to get an X-plan discount.

 

[Diamondpilot]

The brake controller is worth every penny and then some. Trust me, I have one truck with one and one truck without. My aftermarket Prodigy does not hold a candle.

Chris

 

[ToaDisco]

If you're going with the V10, I highly reccomend the 4.30 gears. Fuel mileage will be about the same compared to a 4.10 rear end, but it will pull noticably better.

For a truck that will see very little highway miles/year, I couldn't see any reason not to go 4.30's.

I forgot to add...

If I was ordering a new truck, regardless of trim level, I want a manual shift transfer case. My current F250 has the electronic shift 4x4, and the vacuum hubs failed, which I didn't realize until after I was stuck on a remote logging road. I've got Warn manual hubs now, and luckily, the electronic shifting mechanism on the transfer case is still working fine.

If you only put on 2,000 miles/year, (I'm guessing it's a farm/ranch truck?) just leave the manual hubs locked and just engage the T-case shifter when you need it. It wont hurt anything to drive around with the hubs locked other than you may lose a little MPG's.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Re think that extra cab, as it's great for jackets, groceries a cooler, tools, an over night bag etc, camera gear, and worst case you can take a nap back thee on a long trip - I know I did it and it was appreciated.

The extra $3885 sticker, amortized over even 4 years is like a cup of coffee a day, also it will help on the resale.

 

[MikePA]

Re think that extra cab, as it's great for jackets, groceries a cooler, tools, an over night bag etc, camera gear, and worst case you can take a nap back thee on a long trip - I know I did it and it was appreciated. The extra $3885 sticker, amortized over even 4 years is like a cup of coffee a day, also it will help on the resale.

At the end of April I decided to replace my 1991 Chevy Extended Cab, short bed pickup. Well, a leaking rear main seal, rusted body that wouldn't pass inspection helped the process along, too.

I wanted an 8 foot bed since we haul hay and a longer bed mean fewer trips from the farmer to our barn. A full size pickup with an extended cab and an 8 foot bed is a LONG truck, at least it was to me and, more importantly, to my wife. So, while I didn't rule out an extended cab, it was not my first choice.

I was also looking for a used truck. No way was I going to shell out $30 - $40,000 for a truck. As I found out, regular cab pickups, with an 8 foot bed and a medium sized V8 are very hard to find. I didn't care about brand.

I found plenty of extended cab, 6 foot beds with V8s (5.3L/6.0L Chevy, V10 Fords). Plenty of regular cabs with small V8s (4.6L Chevy) and 8 foot bed.

Finally found what I wanted at a local Chevy dealer. The salesman said I was lucky to find this. In his experience, the regular cab and 8 foot bed trucks are usually fleet vehicles with the base engine. The most popular are extended cab and short bed with the optional engine. So, the combination I wanted was not in big demand, i.e., lower price.

This information was confirmed by the local bed cap retailer. The truck I bought had a Leer bed cap which I didn't want (hay hauling, remember). The dealer offered to take it off before purchase but I decided to keep it and trade it for a removable bed cover. The bed cap dealer was reluctant to take an 8 foot bed cap. He already had one used one and he said there was almost no demand for them.

I will admit there are times I wish I had an extended cab, but I make due with what I can get behind the seats. But when we're hauling hay I'm glad I have the 8 foot bed and when my wife drives and parks the truck I am glad we do not have the extended cab.

 

[Builder]

I wouldn't worry about truck length (supercab, crewcab) unless it's a garaging issue. You get used to it in about a week. I have a crewcab with an 8' utility bed and I can throw it around like a sports car. My wife drives it once in a while and has no problems.

I don't think you need 4.30's for a couple reasons. The V-10 has plenty of power to make those 4.10's go wherever you want in 1st gear. Also, you have the option of low range for off road use. It's a good idea to give your transfer case some "exercise" once in a while. I bet you'd never have a problem going anywhere you want even with 3.73's. When you finally sell, the numerically lower gears will be more appealing to a buyer because of fuel savings.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not 100% sure but I believe the only gear options with a 4x4 V-10 is 4.10 and 4.30. 3.73 is not a option, at least it was not on the 08 model year when I was considering one before buying the Titan.

Chris

 

[Builder]

it will be a farm/woods truck with a gas engine, automatic, SWR with a standard cab and 4x4.

any options that are must haves or must avoids?

Now that I think about it, why waste $600 on a V-10 when it will mostly be a "farm/woods" truck? When would a V-10 really be necessary?

Today's V-8's are 300HP, that's 50 more HP than the 460 big block V-8 of the 90's. I would think that would be plenty of power for farm/woods work. If he got into some real deep trouble, he could use low range off road.

One of the farmers I cut for pulls heavy farm wagons all over back roads with an old Chevy 1500 4x4 with a 350 V-8. Might be 230 HP. I can't see why a Ford 1-ton with 300HP couldn't do that and a lot more. My gosh, I remember pulling huge wagons with my old F-250 with a 351-with a whopping 205HP.

 

[Duffster]

If I was ordering a new truck, regardless of trim level, I want a manual shift transfer case. My current F250 has the electronic shift 4x4, and the vacuum hubs failed, which I didn't realize until after I was stuck on a remote logging road. I've got Warn manual hubs now, and luckily, the electronic shifting mechanism on the transfer case is still working fine.

I would get the auto hubs again. If they do fail you can always lock them in manually.

 

[Groo]

Dont want the extra lenght for going off road in the woods getting firewood. If it was just driving around town, I'd have no problem with a crew cab.

as for the v10 and the 4.30 gears. it will also be a plow truck,The old one wasn't a plow truck. The v10 has a higher trailer rating than the v8, so I assume it has a heavier duty axle and maybe some other stonger dirveline parts. I think this truck will be doing more towing than the last one, but its hard to say.
If for no other reason, I want the V10 because I'll have to look around that hood for the next 20 years (the old truck was too old for cash for clunkers, I guess you just cant destroy a prime antique like that ). I'd rather there be a reason for my limited site line.