OOPS its stronger than that.

/ OOPS its stronger than that. #1  

EMB5530

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 24, 2011
Messages
436
Location
Kansas
Tractor
5530 Mahindra 4x4
Well I've tested out the abilities of the 5530, bit more earth engaging ability(still like that term) than I figured on, I should have built my ripper a bit stronger and reinforced my blade(just a light duty king kutter) a little but I've cleaned up a good amount of fence line w/ them and removed several Osage Orange trees(yea I know I should not have used the snow blade when I have a box blade but the box blade is much wider and I am working in tight spaces, and I have a little platform on my scraper blade made for strapping on my chainsaw, fuel and bar oil).
Oh well it gives me that much more use on my new wire welder.
If only I had the right metal here thats what I get for being a tightwad and using what I had.:D
 

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/ OOPS its stronger than that. #2  
With yours skills as a millwright, there should be no doubt that you will be able to fabricate the necessary repair. Keep us informed.
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #3  
EBM5530,

Glad to hear that your expectations are being surpased. Our 08' 5530 is the same way. For that reason all our attachments are HD to match the tractor. Did you have ballast added to the rear tires. I may have to add fluid when I start plowing next spring with my 3x16's 3ph Ford model 10-209. Then the turbo will definitely be tested for power.

Merry Christmas to all.

idaho2
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that.
  • Thread Starter
#4  
EBM5530,

Glad to hear that your expectations are being surpased. Our 08' 5530 is the same way. For that reason all our attachments are HD to match the tractor. Did you have ballast added to the rear tires. I may have to add fluid when I start plowing next spring with my 3x16's 3ph Ford model 10-209. Then the turbo will definitely be tested for power.

Merry Christmas to all.

idaho2

No ballast in the tires yet... But that is coming soon as I have a good amount of off canter maneuvering along my pond dam that would be much safer with the added ballast. The only reason I am holding back is I feel I want add Rim Guard and the closest location is about 45 miles away. Which brings me to the question has anyone ever put Rim Guard(Beet Juice) in themselves? How thick is it can it be done w/ gravity and a burp valve from Tractor Supply or is it nessesary to pump it in?


Also just an idea but if you need a little extra weight for your plowing endevor, I had a 901 powermaster that already had the tires filled that I built a plow for out of an old 2 bottom trip plow. In order to add extra weight I positioned a 55 gal drum 3/4 full of water towards the front of it and it would sink it to kingdom kum and pulled darn well. Dont know if that would help in your app but it did in mine.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
or the PC version
ChrisMahoniKwanzika:laughing:
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #5  
No ballast in the tires yet... But that is coming soon as I have a good amount of off canter maneuvering along my pond dam that would be much safer with the added ballast. The only reason I am holding back is I feel I want add Rim Guard and the closest location is about 45 miles away. Which brings me to the question has anyone ever put Rim Guard(Beet Juice) in themselves? How thick is it can it be done w/ gravity and a burp valve from Tractor Supply or is it nessesary to pump it in?


Also just an idea but if you need a little extra weight for your plowing endevor, I had a 901 powermaster that already had the tires filled that I built a plow for out of an old 2 bottom trip plow. In order to add extra weight I positioned a 55 gal drum 3/4 full of water towards the front of it and it would sink it to kingdom kum and pulled darn well. Dont know if that would help in your app but it did in mine.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
or the PC version
ChrisMahoniKwanzika:laughing:
See if this helps.How to Add Rim Guard Ballasts to Tractor Tires | eHow.com
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #6  
how much does Rim Guard cost? I have heard ppl having good luck fighting flats when adding tire sealant (like slime) to rimguard. I want to ballast our 2810, but I need it to resist tiny punctures (cactus needles mainly). Which the current sealant is taking care of nicely.
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that.
  • Thread Starter
#7  
how much does Rim Guard cost? I have heard ppl having good luck fighting flats when adding tire sealant (like slime) to rimguard. I want to ballast our 2810, but I need it to resist tiny punctures (cactus needles mainly). Which the current sealant is taking care of nicely.

I didnt know if it was thick enough to help seal up small leaks as I am also running through a lot of Osage Orange and it is very thorny.

No leaks yet though but I cross my fingers every time I run through the trees.
I guess that is the nice thing about an old tractor, the old hard sun dried tires dont get hurt very easy by thorns. This nice new soft rubber has me worried..:p

But I think a gallon or two of slime added would not hurt a thing. Gonna have to do some searchin.;) Good thinkin Texan4Life
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #8  
/ OOPS its stronger than that.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Figured I'd just show the repair of the damage I did to my blade on this thread instead of starting a new one.


Finally got some time to start working on and getting pics of improving my blade.

I went and got some solid shaft from a buddy and decided I would drill and tap holes in the shaft instead of welding it. Figured I may make an attachment for the front of the tractor and I wanted to be able to slide the blade out from the 3pt brackets.(Might have been quicker just to build another blade though cuz drilling & tapping those holes took forever) Also I did not want to cut up more of the 3pt's bracketry than neccesary to put the blade back in, as I do not yet own a set of oxy acty bottles and using a 4" grinder sucks and those dang cutoff wheels cost a mint.


Then I went and got an old door frame and started to re-purpose it into gussit material for the blade itself. I still need to add some flatbar material between the channel iron and the blade and reinforce the 3pt bracketry but momma wants to enjoy some quality time while I'm off work so i'll get back to it later in the week and hopefully I can get her to take more pic's of the progress.
 

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/ OOPS its stronger than that. #10  
Hello Texanforlife,

I have a tire shop nearby who services a lot of private owner's tractors locally. He sent his guy to fill my rear tires on my 5035 with beet juice, of all things! Was about 60+ gallons per tire (but don't quote me) and he charge me $450 cash. I believe he said it would add about 1200+ lbs (again, don't quote me) to the rear of the tractor. I'm pretty sure I saved some money there and God forbid, if you ever have a leak/flat, the beet juice is non toxic so don't worry about the EPA coming after you. :(
Either way, it's a good idea for both traction and safety. I have a similar grade to yours on my driveway and scared myself a couple of times moving heavy processed gravel around and the rear got a bit "light". :eek:
The only drawback I hear about beet juice is when it's really cold, the tires will feel a bit out of balance until some friction builds up and loosens the juice. But haven't had the chance to test that out, but don't really care. Serves the purpose nicely I think.

Cheers
 
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/ OOPS its stronger than that. #11  
how much does Rim Guard cost? I have heard ppl having good luck fighting flats when adding tire sealant (like slime) to rimguard. I want to ballast our 2810, but I need it to resist tiny punctures (cactus needles mainly). Which the current sealant is taking care of nicely.

Texan4life: Can 't say how this will work for fighting small puntures, but for what it's worth, I have a tire shop nearby that services a lot of private owner's tractors locally. He sent his guy to fill my rear tires on my 5035 with beet juice, of all things! Was about 60+ gallons per tire (but don't quote me) and he charge me $450 cash. I believe he said it would add about 1200+ lbs (again, don't quote me) to the rear of the tractor. I'm pretty sure I saved some money there and God forbid, if you ever have a leak/flat, the beet juice is non toxic so don't worry about the EPA coming after you. :(
Either way, it's a good idea for both traction and safety. I scared myself a couple of times moving heavy processed gravel around my steep driveway with a bit of a pitch to it and the rear got a bit "light". :eek: Solid as a rock now.
Cheers
 
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/ OOPS its stronger than that.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Wow this tractor can put it to the ground. I have found the next weak spot in my ripper/subsoiler and it's a good one this time. Oh well I think I will just start from scratch and build it all around heavier. On a good note I was pulling out 5-7 inch dia. roots with it so not too bad.

Also found that the Kodiak heavy duty box blades have a breaking point while popping out a couple trees. I broke the two further back bolts that come from the top link down to the box(Not ramming stuff just butting up against and lifting 3pt while pulling) but I am darn impressed w/ the strength of this machine it really puts the power to the ground as compared to a skid steer.

This makes clearing along the fence fun. I just need to build my attachments heavier than I thought.(Never figured on bending steel that thick:thumbsup:)

On a good note the blade I reinforced is working nicely but now I am thinking I should have gone ahead and made it wider and just bought a 7 or 8 foot cutting bit for it. Oh well something to look forward to buying or building in the future.:drool:
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #13  
EMB5530,

As stated in my earlier post everything I have for my 5530 is HD or XHD. I have used my Bison 242 96" back blade with hydraulics to shear 8" pine trees below ground surface. :thumbsup: But now I have to contend with the roots if I plow in that area of the land. :eek:

Idaho2
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that.
  • Thread Starter
#14  
EMB5530,

As stated in my earlier post everything I have for my 5530 is HD or XHD. I have used my Bison 242 96" back blade with hydraulics to shear 8" pine trees below ground surface. :thumbsup: But now I have to contend with the roots if I plow in that area of the land. :eek:

Idaho2

Pine trees have nothing on Osage Orange:cool:. Its the difference between hardwood and softwood. Thats the reason I take my ripper and run it through the roots b4 trying to remove the tree as you will simply not split/break it off at the ground it comes w/ roots and all. My friend, I would be willing to bet you would have a hard time not bending anything not built w/ extra reinforcement(more than factory) if you have ever encountered this type of tree. I have added more strength to one blade b/c of this and am now planning on reinforcing my entire fleet of implements to handle the extra abuse from my(Proudly Said)heavy duty machine. But I have 2 pine trees that need to be removed on my property and I'll get back to you after I take the two out. Maybe they do compare to hedge(Osage Orange). Truth be told though, I had an easier time getting the hedge out w/ my tractor than I have when I borrowed an 853 bobcat which surprised me. Have to keep digging and digging to get them out w/ a skid steer. Earlier today I took a friend of mine, whom has farmed his entire life, around the property(just walking around b s ing and enjoying a couple of beers in the nice weather) and he asked who I knew w/ a small dozer until, in front of one of the larger trees he saw 4 deep tire marks(the implement breaker):ashamed:. Then he just looked at me, smiled and said lets see your new toy that you think is a dozer (hadn't seen my tractor yet as we had not seen each other since Oct.).
 
/ OOPS its stronger than that. #15  
EMB5530,

After reading about the Osage Orange I'll stick with the Pines. Those things are nasty from what I read. I now also see why you have a tire puncture concern. You're right no comparison with the Pines.

idaho2
 

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