Strange is the transmission case is 5/16 thick at best, even stranger that now I learn there's a top link reinforcement plate that Kubota should've offered as an option, bad Kubota, just wait till I walk in there next corporate board meeting, heads will roll. I wish more companies would take notice from Toyota. This should catch me up on some of these post I missed, sorry about that.
Once upon a time in the land of Me......
- Thread starter Oldpath05
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Strange is the transmission case is 5/16 thick at best, even stranger that now I learn there's a top link reinforcement plate that Kubota should've offered as an option, bad Kubota, just wait till I walk in there next corporate board meeting, heads will roll. I wish more companies would take notice from Toyota. This should catch me up on some of these post I missed, sorry about that.
Steave
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2012
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- 846
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- Taylorsville, GA
- Tractor
- 3000 Ford 66' 260A International Backhoe, Belarus 250AS
Thanks for the computer lesson. I need all the help I can get. :thumbsup:
#18>>"So if you don't know this trick, Press and hold down the control key {Ctrl} and use the left mouse button to click on each photo once. They open in a new tab."
Ok neat trick, I like it, great pictures thanks! I've been an hr going back and forth, up and down, in and out on those pics, one is a little foggy from the rain you had, the sec one from the end, is the top part of that plate 8-3/8" long/deep under the seat? That pic is telling me the plate is 3/8" thick, but how long under seat?
From what I see the only hard part of making this plate is getting the right size holes drilled in the right place. When it comes to making something like this, I try to get a perfect fit, if a 3/8'' bolt is being used, then I drill a 3/8'' hole......
Speaking of bolts I noticed the bolts on my L3400 that hold the toplink brackets on are not metric, they are a half a hair under 1/2'', meaning a 1/2" tap wont quite fit but the split 1/2'' die will fit the bolt loosely, have to really tighten up the die in the holder for it to clean the threads on a bolt, but on the tap there's no adjustment, so if I have to clean out a hole with 1/2'' tap I now have to get a 1/2'' bolt, what gives, have you checked the size of yours? And it's the same size bolts that hold on the hub housings etc....thanks for all your help.
Ok neat trick, I like it, great pictures thanks! I've been an hr going back and forth, up and down, in and out on those pics, one is a little foggy from the rain you had, the sec one from the end, is the top part of that plate 8-3/8" long/deep under the seat? That pic is telling me the plate is 3/8" thick, but how long under seat?
From what I see the only hard part of making this plate is getting the right size holes drilled in the right place. When it comes to making something like this, I try to get a perfect fit, if a 3/8'' bolt is being used, then I drill a 3/8'' hole......
Speaking of bolts I noticed the bolts on my L3400 that hold the toplink brackets on are not metric, they are a half a hair under 1/2'', meaning a 1/2" tap wont quite fit but the split 1/2'' die will fit the bolt loosely, have to really tighten up the die in the holder for it to clean the threads on a bolt, but on the tap there's no adjustment, so if I have to clean out a hole with 1/2'' tap I now have to get a 1/2'' bolt, what gives, have you checked the size of yours? And it's the same size bolts that hold on the hub housings etc....thanks for all your help.
So this was about the very first modification I made to the tractor, 12 years ago. I have not really gave it much thought since it was done. I'm going to have to dust off a few brain cells and see what I remember...
After buying the plate, I measured the depth of the bolt holes (which were longer than the bolts kubota used), I was able to buy all new HD grade 8.8 bolts (metric grade) that were much longer than what the thickness of the steel was. I also use Blue lock tight.
If you were to build this yourself, I would cut the top plate to fit under the seat. Then cut a plate for the back half. Once you have the seat off, suspension mechanism off, seat belt plate off and the 3 point hitch things off. You can easily trace where the holes need to go on paper and trace it to flat the flat stock and drill it.
You then can bolt the top on and bolt the rear plate on to the tractor then tack it up in place. Add the extra steel supports at the 90* "bend". Double that up and make it even stronger... :2cents:
PS. after breakfast, I'll get the exact thickness of the metal used... it does NOT have to be the same thickness, you can go BIG and make it even thicker.
After buying the plate, I measured the depth of the bolt holes (which were longer than the bolts kubota used), I was able to buy all new HD grade 8.8 bolts (metric grade) that were much longer than what the thickness of the steel was. I also use Blue lock tight.
If you were to build this yourself, I would cut the top plate to fit under the seat. Then cut a plate for the back half. Once you have the seat off, suspension mechanism off, seat belt plate off and the 3 point hitch things off. You can easily trace where the holes need to go on paper and trace it to flat the flat stock and drill it.
You then can bolt the top on and bolt the rear plate on to the tractor then tack it up in place. Add the extra steel supports at the 90* "bend". Double that up and make it even stronger... :2cents:
PS. after breakfast, I'll get the exact thickness of the metal used... it does NOT have to be the same thickness, you can go BIG and make it even thicker.
Citydude
Elite Member
I've often wondered about the stress I put on my L2501 with a Farmi 351 winch. My thoughts were that the bolts on the attachment bracket would break before the case. I do have the hydraulic top link pinned in the center attachment holes on the bracket however this is a good heads up thread for those of us with winches. Thanks for posting Oldpath.
CincyFlyer
Veteran Member
Note that 8.8 metric is what we called "ordinary" bolts back when I was an import mechanic, so essentially grade 5 US.
Info: Bolt Depot - Bolt Grade Markings and Strength Chart
Thanks for that post!!!
:mur: :mur: :mur: :mur: :mur:
Well, I would rather have the bolts fail vs. the casing.
You got the thickness right, 3/8".
View attachment 516839
If or when you build this, make sure you get photos along the way so you can post them! :thumbsup:
View attachment 516839
If or when you build this, make sure you get photos along the way so you can post them! :thumbsup:
That middle toplink hole might be the best position for 3 point pto winch, of course I never thought anything about it till now. But now after having the toplink lift housing off where I can really see how thin the trans case is, makes me wonder how it didn't break years ago and this past year was the easiest this tractor's had since I bought it.
The thing is though when I went down to the Kubota dealer few weeks ago, I looked at the other bigger L series tractors and they all have the same toplink bracket design, so if someone puts a 3 point pto winch on, keep in mind that all pulling force is focused on such a small area. I also think doing constant woods work is the hardest job for a tractor, but then again my father made most of his living with a 48 Case VAC back in the 50's and 60's, he had halftracks, small pto chain driven winch and trailer, not that big of a tractor but it sure hauled a lot of pulpwood back in the day.
Probably wont make the toplink plate till September, next month I'll look around for a piece of high strength steel. I'm thinking of having it bent at 90*, then make a pattern out of a cardboard, then use a planed board at the same thickness, lay that on top with all the holes drilled and see if that fitts, if not, do over, once I got a wooden pattern made to fit the rest should be easy-ish.
See if you can get me the under the seat measurement for the plate, is it 8-3/8, 9-3/8, 10-3/8, pick a numbar, remember the more thinking you do the less I have to, if all else fails you can skip over with your plate and we can trace that out, that would save a tremendous amount of time, and yup sure will get some pictures, hopefully this thread will help others out, thanks for your participation in this toplink plate adventure. :salute: