Planters Oliver Cultipacker Repair

   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair #21  
That's interesting. Did you flush up the joint where broken or leave any space at all in using the stainless steel rod? And just a regular bead? As I'm only a shade-tree welder, and most of my experience 3.5 decades past, what is peening? My beads usually look like a bad gallbladder scar made by a first-year surgeon with a hangover and bad eyesight. Thanks!

I beveled the mating edges on the block using a Dremel motor and steel burrs and the broken part (a flange on the front of the block where the front end bolster connects to the block). You don't want to grind cast iron with abrasive wheels because this causes "graphite smear" which causes adhesion problems when cast iron is brazed. It's not that much of a problem when arc welding since the weld area gets hot enough to burn off the carbon (same a graphite). Grinding with steel burrs is the recommended method to prepare cast iron for welding or brazing. It's more time consuming than whacking away with a 4-1/2 angle grinder like you do with mild steel, but haste makes waste, especially in welding cast iron.

The two pieces were butted together and held in alignment by a bracket I fabricated. Nothing special about the bead--just took my time to be sure I got good tie-in between the weld puddle and the base metal. Putting down 1" beads and letting the cast iron cool to room temperature before running the next bead is also time consuming--again haste makes waste.

Peening--a method of stress relieving a metal part during cooldown by hammering on the weld. Cast iron is a lot more brittle than mild steel and can crack during cooling due to stress caused by temperature gradients.

Peening - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Good luck
 
   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Like a 30 to 45-degree bevel, say 1/16th or so wide on each piece be large enough puddle? I'm retired, early, so I don't need to rush. Am a fairly patient fella the way it is (been married nigh 35 years, so a man learns). Can also weld a dab, then walk away for 15-20 minutes and do rearrangin and tool-puttin-up in my less-than-neat shop. Ok on the peening. What Dad and I used to do when we tapped on a welded joint w/a ball peen hammer (small ball peen end, duh). Seen him do it dozens of times as a teenager, and I've done it myself, just didn't know the proper terminology nor why it was done. Wish I could fly you from the Golden State to the Mountain State and have you fix it fer me! Again, sir, thank you very much for the detailed information. Very, very helpful. Will let you know how the job turns out.
 
   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair #23  
Like a 30 to 45-degree bevel, say 1/16th or so wide on each piece be large enough puddle? I'm retired, early, so I don't need to rush. Am a fairly patient fella the way it is (been married nigh 35 years, so a man learns). Can also weld a dab, then walk away for 15-20 minutes and do rearrangin and tool-puttin-up in my less-than-neat shop. Ok on the peening. What Dad and I used to do when we tapped on a welded joint w/a ball peen hammer (small ball peen end, duh). Seen him do it dozens of times as a teenager, and I've done it myself, just didn't know the proper terminology nor why it was done. Wish I could fly you from the Golden State to the Mountain State and have you fix it fer me! Again, sir, thank you very much for the detailed information. Very, very helpful. Will let you know how the job turns out.

I just eyeballed the bevel--probably close to 45 deg. I beveled both sides of the crack to ensure that the weld penetrated completely through the break. The unbeveled part of the crack was only about 1/16" wide to provide enough of the crack to get the two pieces tightly aligned before starting the weld. I made sure on the first pass on each side of the break that the weld penetrated entirely through the base metal. That's what you need to get the strongest weld. I also welded a mild steel stiffener to the weakest part of the flange using the same Missile Rod to provide additional support to that area.

Good luck.
 
   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I think I got it. Thanks for the detailed how-to! Have yourself a great weekend!
 
   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair #25  
As far as them Oliver end caps go, yes they were likely supplied from the factory with wood liners, and most likely white oak. Since they are broken anyway, I would just take them, as part of a load, to the scrap-yard. All you have to do for your new end-caps, is box in two sections, from 1/4" or so flat-plate steel (a lot easier to weld than iron, and run 4x4, square bearing liners of white oak, thru which you can drill holes, about 1/16" larger than the diameter of your axle. Being able to get grease into them bearings after each use, definitely extends the bearing life considerably. For the axle, just cut down the old one, on one side, to the width you need. The end sections on the axles are likely worn down significantly, and should also be cut off and sent to the scrap-yard. Cut your new axles from the inner, constant diameter sections of the old axle. I always have made my bearing liners from 4x4 section of white oak, and about 6-8" long. Drill and install a bolt above and below the axle hole (I use (2) 3/8 bolts here), thru each side of your 1/4" steel frame, and the 4" bearing liner. I tried treated pine here a few times but it definitely does not last as long as white oak. I can tell you with certainty, that I have never even seen any noticeable wear, in about 25 years of relatively hard use, on 40 acres of crop-land, with greased, white oak bearing liners.
Some folks like double cultipackers better, but I think that is mostly with ones that are on the wide side, as the second roller, helps to flatten the "gaps" a bit that are left by the first over un-even contours. Of all the cultipackers I have used, a single roller, narrow (4 foot) with large diameter wheels, has done the best job. The drawback of that one was just more passes and time required. A 6-7 foot wide single is a real good compromise between time taken and quality of work. I especially like my single, 7 footer because, hooked behind my 6 foot wide 3-point drag, I get a real nice "cultimulcher", and that combo always does a fine job in preparing the ground for planting my favorite deer crop - FIELD CORN. When "cultimulching" (drag and cultipacker combined), it is always nice for the cultipacker to be, just a little bit wider than the drag.
Now I will try and answer some of your other questions, and don't worry about offending me (I have some thick of skin and I will always forgive any attacker, because I know that there is nothing to gained from holding a grudge). As for the case of beer trade. You are right that there was some drinking involved prior, and that fella has been a beer-drinking buddy of mine, at the local bar, down at the end of our road, for a long time. He is an older, retired gentleman, and probably the most successful deer hunters that I know. His farm is across, and at the opposite end of the bar, on our road, while mine is near the center. He had no use for, and was very happy just to get that thing out of his hedge-row. I still recall the beer brand, both his and my own favorite, which he still enjoys today, (Genesee Cream ale). That is also my favorite, but unfortunately I am taking some drugs now due to some recent, major surgery, and my doctor wont let me drink any beer, maybe up to another couple of months. We both like to support our local Upstate NY brand, rather than the foreign stuff that most others seem to like these days.
 
   / Oliver Cultipacker Repair
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Sorry I'm just replying. Spent all day Saturday at a local farm equipment consignment auction and Sunday watchin that $2 million rodeo on rfd. Had ice, wind, and snow here on the ridge this morning and just now gettin back on the computer. I've printed out your recommendations and specs, and posted in my shop beside the tanks/torch and buzz box; the old cultipacker is on the concrete pad outside the double doors. Just waitin on this ice and snow to melt to get started. Thanks for tellin me the story; sounds like you and your neighbor have enjoyed some good times, and I hope both you fellers have many more years ahead. Also hope you recover fully and quickly, in time for spring farm work. Keep everybody in line upstate, and we'll do the same here just south of the Mason-Dixon. Keep in touch, friend, and again, thank you very, very much for your help.
 
 

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