Old troy bilt horse, Should I replace the old hh60?
- Thread starter cheeto
- Start date
TomSeller
Super Member
The two pulley sets are for either high (belt towards the engine) or low (towards the handles). There should only be one belt per the attached
http://www.brentchalmers.com/Manuals/1978GardenWayFourSpeedHorseTillerManualSupplementWM.pdf
Otherwise you are are losing tons of HP in friction as one or the other slips.
2manyrocks
Super Member
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My recollection is Troy Bilt used two belts on the Horse in the 70's and switched to one belt in the early 80's. The one belt allowed a low range on one set of pulleys and a higher range on the other set of pulleys. This was also a design feature of some of the smaller tillers like the Junior as I recall.
I haven't read the entire thread to figure out which model Cheeto has....
I haven't read the entire thread to figure out which model Cheeto has....
TomSeller
Super Member
Interesting. In this case Cheeto's pulleys would match sizes. Both top pulleys would be the same size and both bottom pulleys would be the same size. That should be easy to check. He says they are two different sizes, but he could mean the tops are different from the bottom. In the case of the link I attached the top pulleys are different sizes and the lower pulleys are different sizes.
Cheeto,
How about a picture?
Quick update: I was looking at the pulleys wrong.... In my earlier post I mistakenly said that I had two different size pulleys. I was looking at it wrong. The larger pulley is for the reverse disk. This is when I had the engine removed and didn't have the engine pulley to compare the "transmission" pulley too. My bad. The good news I installed predator #2. Everything went well, maybe 20 minutes total to install. Everything is shimmed correctly and the engine runs smoooth and strong. The bad news is, now the tines only work in high speed, kinda. They rotate but stop when they hit dirt. They don't rotate at all in low speed. The wheels run just as they should, they don't miss a beat. I'm thinking I have a broken Key somewhere thats not allowing the tines to take any resistance. Its just odd that I did a engine swap and now the tines do not want to work. Fingers are crossed no serious internal damage. We will see tomorrow.... The saga continues.
slimpickins28
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I am by no means an expert, and have only worked on one of these. I have another I am going to buy that predator engine for. Anyway, the first one was my uncles. He let me borrow his, but said it has no power in the dirt and only scratches the top, "but that's how its suppose to work"......well, its not!! I looked, and the belt I had was too loose so when the tines hit the dirt, the engine pulley kept spinning under the belt. You might check that.
jdboy4410
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the HH60 is durable,but all things come to an end eventually.the governor will increase engine rpm if the engine starts to labor under load,and returns to throttle setting once the load is removed.as for rebuilding it,you will be limited to finding NOS parts,I have not been able to find oversize pistons for them,just standard bore,and that would be fine as long as the cylinder measurements are in spec,but will likely not be.I was going to rebuild mine,but the crank is toast,threw a rod and scarred the journal beyond service,that being said,I should have a new engine showing up tomorrow for it.I went the cheap route,got a 6.5 Predator from Harbor Freight,a mere Honda copy,but all the reviews I have read were very good,so figured I would give it a try.It sounds like you have a carb issue though,get a rebuild kit for it,pretty simple to install,not much to it,then just adjust it according to the manual,start it,warm it up,and fine tune the adjustment,should be ok then.
sergeant69
New member
I would like to follow up on the 2 pulley aspect of the thread if we could. my just purchased 1971 horse also has 2 pulleys/belts. can anyone explain what for? is it so you can engage the wheels but not the tines as when transporting or?? I am missing something here.
MikeInEburg
Veteran Member
On those older tillers, I don't believe that you can move the machine under its own power without the tines moving. For faster transport, ours has pins in each axle that could be removed, allowing the wheel to spin freely on the axle. You have to provide the propulsion, but the machine could move much faster.
eddie48
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The two belt set up is purely to prevent the belts from slipping. When they are replaced, they need to be replaced with a matched set of belts. They always came in pairs from TroyBilt, don't know what you can get from MTD now. The tines and the axle are geared together. You cannot disengage the tines to drive the tiller to a new spot. If the depth gauge is not too worn, you can move it all the way down and the tines will not touch the ground. The horse models have a neutral option on the gear selector (the large lever on the right side of the tine cover that allows high or low speed.) When that lever is in the center position, you can roll the tiller around.