OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent.

   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #1  

Diggin It

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First thing this morning I went to a part of the house I don't go to everyday. Stepped on a board, heard a noise and knew instantly what it was. Ain't the first rodeo with this issue. Grabbed a hammer and prybar and went to work. Yup. Just exactly what I expected.

Them.jpg

This house was built in the late 40s and has loads of issues. This hill is full of them and there is nothing I can do but spot treat. Too costly to go the full route or perimeter treatment every year or so.

That board was a rough cut Oak 2 x 8 that served as the threshold board for what used to be the outside door on the front porch. It was laid over the concrete blocks shown below. Why those blocks weren't filled is a question no one alive today can answer. They WILL be filled solid in the next day or so.

Threshold.jpg

I've since enclosed the old porch and made it another room (with the grey carpet). The wood floor is the old section and main house.

I demo'd enough this morning to find their entry point and find out how far they traveled. That material has all been discarded. The picture below shows the path. If you've never seen it before, you may not know what to look for.

Path.jpg

There is NO crawl space or other access under this house. The only vents are a few concrete blocks turned sideways. I wasn't even sure until a few weeks back how much room there was under the floor. I had been hoping to someday cut an access door through the floor to get down there and look around. I finally found out that there is only about 8-10 inches, about the height of a concrete block between the floor joists and dirt. No possibly way for a person to move around.

Going back up to the threshold picture, the red arrow point to the void where the entry path is shown in the other picture. The two yellow arrows point to the ventspace under the floor. Air is moving freely from the outside vents up through those holes.

OK, now the questions:

>> Other than the stuff at big box stores, what can a homeowner buy to treat these devils? I have a Bayer product that killed them on contact this morning. I sprayed as much as I could down into areas I couldn't see into and along some of the wood joints beyond where I found them. Pouring the voids full of concrete will stop future access.

>> How should I refinish the edge around an access/inspection hole? Back to the threshold picture, the green box is where I'm considering cutting the floor now that I can see in there a bit better. I don't need to make it big enough to get through, but just a foot or so, enough to get my head or a camera through to do more of a visual inspection further back. I won't cut the joists, just the rough and finish floor boards. I'm hoping a single circular saw cut will get through and there won't be a wide space left. I know I'll have to add another 2x to support the cut section, But I'm trying to figure out what to do on top for the finish floor.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #2  
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent.
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yeah, I've seen that mentioned a few times here. This Bayer stuff worked fine, but again, you have to get at them. It kills on contact, but that means ON CONTACT, it doesn't work below ground.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #4  
Not cheap by any means (neither is termite damage) but works... FUSE Termiticide Insecticide. It goes a long way... been using it for the past 5 -6 yrs in the spring on the perimeter of the foundation & have had great success with it.... even for the carpenter ants. Nice thing is it is:
"Fuse is non-repellant, which means that the insects cannot detect it and will readily come into contact with it. In doing so, they will receive a lethal dose of the insecticide. With insects such as termites and ants, they will also carry this lethal dose back to the colony and spread it among the other insects as well."


FUSE Termiticide Insecticide
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #5  
I would ask an exterminator...they generally tell you that infestations of subterranean termites begin when there is moisture present (i.e., a roof or plumbing leak that runs down the framing)...they need the moisture to make the (mud) tunnels up the blocks to reach the wood...
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #6  
I dozed off twice before I finished reading all that but it sound's like you want to know how to treat termites long term. There's 2 options,diy bait stations or hire pros that have access to effective chemicals.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #7  
Not cheap by any means (neither is termite damage) but works... FUSE Termiticide Insecticide. It goes a long way... been using it for the past 5 -6 yrs in the spring on the perimeter of the foundation & have had great success with it.... even for the carpenter ants. Nice thing is it is:
"Fuse is non-repellant, which means that the insects cannot detect it and will readily come into contact with it. In doing so, they will receive a lethal dose of the insecticide. With insects such as termites and ants, they will also carry this lethal dose back to the colony and spread it among the other insects as well."


FUSE Termiticide Insecticide

I am going to add this to my 'to do' list, this appears to be a good solution to prevent issues..
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #8  
There's 2 options,diy bait stations or hire pros that have access to effective chemicals.

Yep. And if my house was infested it would be the latter as soon as possible.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #9  
For termites, use anything with the active ingredient 'fipronil'. As mentioned above, 'Fuse' is one of those products. Read and follow the label and you will have good results.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I'm not really understanding how spraying this stuff on the surface with a normal garden sprayer will make it penetrate the ground deep enough to get to them. One of those sites casually mentions trenching, but doesn't go into detail.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #11  
See the last sentence of post #6.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #13  
We had them once but we bought the powder that they love to eat. They then leave your timber alone and take this back to the nest. It sterilizes them and they can't re-produce. Because they will only eat this powder, when it runs out they starve. I put some in an old plastic Ice Cream container with a lid and made a hole in it and nailed it to a beam. Our termites were completely eliminated in about 2 weeks. !0 years now and no more but I self treat around the perimeter with a spray that lasts up to 10 years.
Powder is SUPERWAY Termite Bait. Cost around $60 at the time.
Spray is Fortune Ultra Termiticide (mix 150 ml to 30 litres of water) 1 litre lasts me several years. Costs around $40 or so. Surefire Fortune Ultra - PCT Rural

Here is another solution if you can get it there. Termite Bait by Termikill. Australian made proven DIY termite solution.

This is the powder I used. Superway Customer treating "Superway compact termite bait station".wmv - YouTube

Have a read. It is pretty easy... Diy termite bait stations: how to make and install a bait stantion?

We were quoted between $700 and $1200 to get rid of them by Pest companies but we did it ourselves initially for $40.

Just sprayed all around the house again yesterday as a preventitive,
When we came here originally the house was covered in spider webs. We sprayed the walls etc with Fortune Ultra and have had no spiders since. It lasts at least 10 years under cover. I also do my fence posts around the farm and it lasts for 5 -7 years in the open. (It seems to last longer than that to me)
 
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   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #14  
Try just plain old diaomateceous (spelling) earth. Available at the farm stores. its is also used in water filtration. They take into their nest and it plugs up their innards then they die off. Works on ants and it is cheap. If you don't get the queen killed they just keep coming back. Prevention is the best.

Ron
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent.
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Suppliers are saying to use Taurus SC instead of Fuse?

Thoughts?
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #17  
Suppliers are saying to use Taurus SC instead of Fuse?

Thoughts?

Both are labeled for use on termites and both contain Fipronil. So either one would work. I did not read the entire label for either one, but I think you should read it before deciding which one to use and before applying either one. Here is a link to both labels for your convenience.

https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/agrian-cg-fs1-production/pdfs/Taurus_SC1d_Label.pdf

https://controlsolutionsinc.com/wp-content/uploads/Specimen-Fuse-53883-328.pdf
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #18  
you use taurus sc outside in the ground either through injection , or a ditch or i used a 2 and half foot drill bit, and funnels. i used FUSE inside in specific damaged area's then used bora care on every single piece of wood i could spray in the basement, this stops them from eating it in the future.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent.
  • Thread Starter
#19  
One guy mentioned a trench 6" wide by 6" deep. I can do that in some places, but I kinda' like the drill idea too. Would make a lot less mess to drill a 3/8 hole every two feet or so.

I was planning on drilling each concrete block to inject into the webs, but I'm not sure I want to get into all that if injecting into the ground would accomplish the same thing.
 
   / OK, Gang, Need House Advice, KIinda Urgent. #20  
You have a serious infestation and treatment for such is more than an exterior perimeter application. Probably an interior and interior application of two products. Don’t screw around, get a professional in there, then do your own applications after that.
 

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