Oil change idiocy

   / Oil change idiocy #1  

jim44

Silver Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2012
Messages
178
Location
Back in Texas soon, I hope
Tractor
Kubota MX 5100 Cub Cadet LGTX 1050
Just working on changing the oil in my LT 1050. Has anyone come up with a way to replace that factory oil drain system with something that can be used to drain the oil without all the gymnastics and headstands, etc.?? That is without a doubt the most ridiculous thing I've come across in years, not to mention that it apparently can not be totally closed, and leaks a fair amount of oil all over the engine and frame. I hope there's a way to replace that junk -- maybe with a pipe nipple and cap??:confused3:
 
   / Oil change idiocy #2  
great drain system (with the current drain system) on a lt 1050 it is prob the old drain prob needs to have the metal fitting that screws into the block tighter,hence the oil leak if you have the one with the red tabs,take it out and put the newer style in with some plumbers tape ,very simple oil change from then on
 
   / Oil change idiocy #3  
I'd substitute LockTite for plumbers tape whenever possible but that's just me...
 
   / Oil change idiocy
  • Thread Starter
#5  
So, I take it that the red tab setup has been improved?

What sort of a tool does it take to switch it out, or tighten it?

Thank you both for the help.
 
   / Oil change idiocy #6  
15/16 wrench ..lol pull the old yellow fitting off first (after draining oil),then use your wrench

So, I take it that the red tab setup has been improved?

What sort of a tool does it take to switch it out, or tighten it?

Thank you both for the help.
 
   / Oil change idiocy #7  
There's several threads with pics here on replumbing that thing with a proper hard pipe setup that drains over the back of the engine mounting plate.
 
   / Oil change idiocy
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I haven't been able to find anything relating to the ltx 1050 as far as re-plumbing the oil drain. Found a thread on a 25xx, dealing with the same problem, but it doesn't look like the same setup. Would the size (3/8) and thread (pipe) be the same on a 1050?? The overall idea is exactly what I'm looking for.

Thanks
 
   / Oil change idiocy #9  
I'd think it would be the same just for parts commonality at Kohler. That said, the only way to find out is to dive in.
 
   / Oil change idiocy #11  
Just working on changing the oil in my LT 1050. Has anyone come up with a way to replace that factory oil drain system with something that can be used to drain the oil without all the gymnastics and headstands, etc.?? That is without a doubt the most ridiculous thing I've come across in years, not to mention that it apparently can not be totally closed, and leaks a fair amount of oil all over the engine and frame. I hope there's a way to replace that junk -- maybe with a pipe nipple and cap??:confused3:

The drain plug is 3/8 N.P.T. Inch My drain plug on my CV25S Kohler has a extended drain plug. It resembles a flexible line with both male and female fittings. The drain plug Extends to the outer part of the engine mounting deck. This is on a Commercial MMZ 2554 MTP PRO. This also the same as the MMZ 2554 and 2560 cub cadet tank. I don't know if the Tank used a flexible line but it is the case on a MTRP PRO.

The illustrated parts list shows the piping to be part # 01003283 HOSE, KOHLER OIL DRAIN.

It appears in the illustration as an assembled hose with a screw in plug. One would remove their existing drain plug and screw this one in. I have a CV25S that's on a Mtd Pro ZT. Maybe you can call MTD and get the drain hose. God luck. -kid
 
   / Oil change idiocy
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks, Kid. I'll just assume that it's the 3/8 npt and see if it will work next oil change. If I can get it extended out past the frame I'll be satisfied. I have seen the arrangement you're talking about on new Sears machines. Looks like it will be pretty easy to rig up and pretty easy to use.:thumbsup:
 
   / Oil change idiocy #13  
Thanks, Kid. I'll just assume that it's the 3/8 npt and see if it will work next oil change. If I can get it extended out past the frame I'll be satisfied. I have seen the arrangement you're talking about on new Sears machines. Looks like it will be pretty easy to rig up and pretty easy to use.:thumbsup:
Jim, I'd estimate the hose being about thirteen to fourteen inches long. You could use a 1/2" conduit strap bolted to the engine deck to secure it. I pull it towards the back to drain it off the side. It drains slowly so go have a couple cups of coffee while it's draining. Here's some pictures of mine. When changing mine I found a leak from the side mounted oil cooler. They used those spring clamps. I'm going to change them out to the screwdriver type. -kid

View attachment 322818 View attachment 322819 View attachment 322821
 
   / Oil change idiocy #14  
if you want a drain hose that threads into the block with a cap on the end, order one for a rzt 50,54 series they have a great drain hose feature,be sure to get one for the kohler engine and not the kawi,just incase of thread differences....glad
 
   / Oil change idiocy #15  
if you want a drain hose that threads into the block with a cap on the end, order one for a rzt 50,54 series they have a great drain hose feature,be sure to get one for the kohler engine and not the kawi,just incase of thread differences....glad

Are you stating. My information is wrong? :confused:
 

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