Willl
Elite Member
It seems odd to me that a brush hog would break the drive shaft to the blades and total itself before the slip clutch kicked out. Slip clutch adjusted or not.
How 'bout rusted together ?
It seems odd to me that a brush hog would break the drive shaft to the blades and total itself before the slip clutch kicked out. Slip clutch adjusted or not.
How 'bout rusted together ?
It's obvious that the shaft was fatigued and the final ipact did not cause all the damage. Is this a warranty issue, depends on time of ownership. Based on what I have read of the MX6, it should be a recall.
Over the years we have dropped the stumpjumper a few times and never has it flown outside of the mower, but sat laying in the grass right where it fell/broke off.
I wouldn't spend a lot of money repairing it considering I bought a like new 3pt MX8 for $2500 from the dealer.
Redbug said:Just how do you test/check your slip clutch before you use the cutter? Loosen up the pressure bolts around the plates? I never considered the plates rusting together before.
Buy this: 75 HP GEARBOX FOR ROTARY MOWERS - Agri Supply
Take it to a good welding shop and have them weld the included hub to the stump jumper.
I have had an MX10 for about 10 years. In that time, I have broken both the right and left side gear box output shafts. You can purchase them from JD, but they come as a matched gear set with the gear that rides on splines on the input shaft.
If you can get the set, the R&R is not that difficult. The hardest part is removing the bearing that is pressed on to the output shaft.
Remove the gear box, remove the top cover and side oil seal plug and remove the C clip holding the bearing in the box. The input shaft pushes out with the bearing and the gear sliding off the splines as it goes.
Once the input shaft and gear are clear of the box, the output shaft can be removed through the top of the box, though depending on where it broke, you may have an oil seal and C clip that needs to come off the shaft end. Take care to keep the bearings clean.
The bearing which butts up to the gear flange on the output shaft can be removed by several methods. If you do this job and get this far and cannot figure our how to get the bearing off, drop me a PM and I will coach you through it. Once off it is easily installed on the new shaft with a 18" length piece of 2" PVC and a mallot.
Reassemble the same way you pulled it apart. I was able to even reuse the oil seals by tapping them back to round shape and using some gasket in a tube sealer.
+1, great suggestion:thumbsup:
Don't go back to JD. They are the ones who caused the problem in the first place. However, with a 75 HP gearbox, you'll need to protect your tractor even more with the correct shear pin or clutch adjustment.