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MatthewPaul
Member
Testing out the drive-train:
Oddball 135 Rebuild
- Thread starter MatthewPaul
- Start date
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MatthewPaul
Member
Taking it for a little drive.
KubotainNH
Veteran Member
Nice! In the first video you can see something flash between the tank and top of the engine. Spark jumping maybe? Did you figure out if the oil pressure gauge was screwed up?
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MatthewPaul
Member
Thanks! It looks like it was just the light between the tank and valve cover shining through when the tractor moved. The pressure gauge is off I believe. Ive got a test gauge to hook up and check. I blew a hydraulic line for the steering yesterday, but im getting it tuned up nice. it needs a little adjustment still but it runs REALLY nice now.
Hello MatthewPaul, I think you have an industrial 135. They have a 165 back end, and from memory 24" rims standard on the rear. The front axle had power steering standard , but I can't recall if the axle was adjustable or not.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
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MatthewPaul
Member
Thank you Redman. Im not 100% sure. I was under the impression that they did not have industrial 135s in the USA, but I was also under the impression that the Orchard model came with a diesel or a 4cyl gas, not the 3 cyl gas perkins. Who knows....
I am just about finished with it.
I got it back together and found out that th 3pt lift did not function. I took the inspection covers off, cleaned the filter and manipulated the pump lever by hand with the tractor running, through the side port, and the lift worked, but would not function with the controls. There were rollers missing in the control linkage, cotter pins missing, one spring in the bottom of the case, very bad, and very worn.
I turned new rollers and made some bushings to tighten everything up. Apparently I made it too tight as the lift operates from 100% up to all the way down with about 2 inches of travel on the hand controls... but that's ok.
These are the new rollers that I made, they sit at the end of the control shafts.
I mixed up some paint for the chassis, Some smoke grey rustolium and some black, mixed until the color was close to the factory.
I got it all painted, and started on the hood and grill.
And......
Here is the finished machine!
Well, almost finished. I need to set up the charging system and re work the carb again. Also - I need to save my pennies for some new rubber.
I am just about finished with it.
I got it back together and found out that th 3pt lift did not function. I took the inspection covers off, cleaned the filter and manipulated the pump lever by hand with the tractor running, through the side port, and the lift worked, but would not function with the controls. There were rollers missing in the control linkage, cotter pins missing, one spring in the bottom of the case, very bad, and very worn.
I turned new rollers and made some bushings to tighten everything up. Apparently I made it too tight as the lift operates from 100% up to all the way down with about 2 inches of travel on the hand controls... but that's ok.
These are the new rollers that I made, they sit at the end of the control shafts.
I mixed up some paint for the chassis, Some smoke grey rustolium and some black, mixed until the color was close to the factory.
I got it all painted, and started on the hood and grill.
And......
Here is the finished machine!
Well, almost finished. I need to set up the charging system and re work the carb again. Also - I need to save my pennies for some new rubber.
Arc weld
Veteran Member
I think it is an orchard special with larger wheels fitted. You'll know when you put it in road gear. 
I think that Arc weld may be right about the back wheels coming from another tractor. On my 135 (farm) with 24" rims the mud guards are a lot taller than the wheels.
If the brakes are dry disc then you will be learning to drive without brakes as dry disc's don't last, and are diabolical to keep balanced. The factory changed the linkages in the trumpet housing to give more adjustment in the early 70's and also sold a kit with the update.
If the brakes are dry disc then you will be learning to drive without brakes as dry disc's don't last, and are diabolical to keep balanced. The factory changed the linkages in the trumpet housing to give more adjustment in the early 70's and also sold a kit with the update.
deanocraft
Silver Member
Very nice work! That looks fantastic.
OP
MatthewPaul
Member
Thanks guys. Good to know. The brakes work, somewhat. The left brake is on or off, and the right brake is sensitive but works. I got the ignition timing set, and it runs very well.
