Nx6010 needs to regen daily

[JimR]

My last regen was a 870 hours. Today I hit 920 hours and haven't done a regen. I will post when it does happen.

I had my most recent regeneration yesterday at 937 hours. That is awesome at 67 hours between regens. It lasted 22 minutes before the light went out. I had just stopped my tractor to chip some brush when the light came on. I cranked it up to 2500 and went to work chipping brush. At 20 minutes I took a break to time the light. At 22 minutes the light went off. I have also been running Sweets Hot Shot EDT in my fuel. It says it can prolong regens. My service dealer's shop manager told me about using this stuff. It also boosts up the cetane rating approximately 7 points. He also mentioned running their oil restriction additive in the oil. I have been using that also.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

So this is something new....it needs to regen pretty much daily now...it has 300 hours on it, 2016 bought it.

Been doing alot of loader work and its highly annoying burning diesel on regen and walking away for 40 minutes to regen

Any ideas?

Either you have a severely leaking injector(s) or the thermostat's bypass spring has gone soft and is opening anytime the engine is off idle thereby not allowing the engine to run warm enough to get off of the richer warm-up map and causing the truncated regeneration cycles. Replace your T-stat with a Stant 48808. Also, be prepared to make your own T-stat gasket as I've had a hard time getting the factory gasket to seal correctly, so I'm using thicker gasket-making material and making my own thermostat gasket for my Kioti's engine. I take viewers through the whole process of swapping T-stats in one of my videos.

Anyway, for whatever reason, I've observed loader work is hard on the thermostat's bypass spring and in 800 hours, I'm on my third T-stat having just replaced it again just this last spring.

 

[JimR]

Either you have a severely leaking injector(s) or the thermostat's bypass spring has gone soft and is opening anytime the engine is off idle thereby not allowing the engine to run warm enough to get off of the richer warm-up map and causing the truncated regeneration cycles. Replace your T-stat with a Stant 48808. Also, be prepared to make your own T-stat gasket as I've had a hard time getting the factory gasket to seal correctly, so I'm using thicker gasket-making material and making my own thermostat gasket for my Kioti's engine. I take viewers through the whole process of swapping T-stats in one of my videos.

Anyway, for whatever reason, I've observed loader work is hard on the thermostat's bypass spring and in 800 hours, I'm on my third T-stat having just replaced it again just this last spring.

That is a lot of thermostats. Mine is a 2014 that I bought in 2016 new. It has 940 hours on it and the original thermostat. The motor has never run over half way on the temperature gauge.

 

[Threepoint]

I had my most recent regeneration yesterday at 937 hours. That is awesome at 67 hours between regens. It lasted 22 minutes before the light went out. I had just stopped my tractor to chip some brush when the light came on. I cranked it up to 2500 and went to work chipping brush. At 20 minutes I took a break to time the light. At 22 minutes the light went off. I have also been running Sweets Hot Shot EDT in my fuel. It says it can prolong regens. My service dealer's shop manager told me about using this stuff. It also boosts up the cetane rating approximately 7 points. He also mentioned running their oil restriction additive in the oil. I have been using that also.

Jim, thanks for the update! Good to hear about the extended times between regens after what you've been through. I'm also curious about the Sweets Hot Shot EDT. Had not heard about that. Did a bit of reading of some online reviews earlier today. I thought fuel additives were usually discouraged on Tier 4 engines, so your first hand experience and the recommendation from your dealer's shop manager make it especially interesting.

 

[Threepoint]

Either you have a severely leaking injector(s) or the thermostat's bypass spring has gone soft and is opening anytime the engine is off idle thereby not allowing the engine to run warm enough to get off of the richer warm-up map and causing the truncated regeneration cycles. Replace your T-stat with a Stant 48808. Also, be prepared to make your own T-stat gasket as I've had a hard time getting the factory gasket to seal correctly, so I'm using thicker gasket-making material and making my own thermostat gasket for my Kioti's engine. I take viewers through the whole process of swapping T-stats in one of my videos.

Anyway, for whatever reason, I've observed loader work is hard on the thermostat's bypass spring and in 800 hours, I'm on my third T-stat having just replaced it again just this last spring.

Eric, as with Jim's tractor, the temperature gauge on my 2014 NX4510HST/cab never climbs above midway. Our winters here in No. Virginia are nowhere near as cold as yours, but I know your summers get plenty hot. With your Stant 48808 thermostat, where does your gauge run on days in the upper 80s or even 90s? My concern here in our summers would be running too hot and risking unintended other consequences.

 

[JimR]

Jim, thanks for the update! Good to hear about the extended times between regens after what you've been through. I'm also curious about the Sweets Hot Shot EDT. Had not heard about that. Did a bit of reading of some online reviews earlier today. I thought fuel additives were usually discouraged on Tier 4 engines, so your first hand experience and the recommendation from your dealer's shop manager make it especially interesting.

The best part was that it was only a 22 minute regen instead of 30 - 40 minutes. I kept an eye on the exhaust during the regen. It barely smoked during the regen. I have been using the power mix on the Sweets.

 

[JimR]

Eric, as with Jim's tractor, the temperature gauge on my 2014 NX4510HST/cab never climbs above midway. Our winters here in No. Virginia are nowhere near as cold as yours, but I know your summers get plenty hot. With your Stant 48808 thermostat, where does your gauge run on days in the upper 80s or even 90s? My concern here in our summers would be running too hot and risking unintended other consequences.

In Mass we had some 90 - 95 degree days and I was out mowing with a Landpride 2584 mower and running my MX6 brush hog. My temp gauge never went over the halfway mark. I'm pretty **** about keeping the grilles, radiator screens and the radiator free of crud and debris.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, as with Jim's tractor, the temperature gauge on my 2014 NX4510HST/cab never climbs above midway. Our winters here in No. Virginia are nowhere near as cold as yours, but I know your summers get plenty hot. With your Stant 48808 thermostat, where does your gauge run on days in the upper 80s or even 90s? My concern here in our summers would be running too hot and risking unintended other consequences.

Because we're further away from warming oceans than just about anything else, we are infrequently the coldest place in North America, (and conversely, by heat index poor Moorehead is infrequently the hottest place on earth from time to time). Anyway, with the Stant T-stat installed, the meter runs right in the middle of the gauge like yours does. In the winter, I 100% block the radiator with a bit of cardboard, and if brush cutting in the warmer months, I do need to blow debris out the screens as well as the hood vents to keep the from running too hot or overheating—but everybody must do that, so no difference in operation except less frequent regens.

The whole reason I did the T-stat swap was a whole pile of 2014 tier IV fleets were having nothing but problems with way, way too frequent regen cycles, or machines like mine that never got up to temp to try and regen and got stuck in a perma limp home mode. The field solution for the diesel industry was to swap to warmer thermostats. The ECUs kept the same fuel maps, but the engines ran warm enough to function as designed.

 

[JimR]

Eric, I remember your posts about your tractor not heating up and finding a different thermostat for it.