NPT tricks for aligning?

puckgrinder85 · Jan 22, 2013

Does anyone have any tricks for lining up NPT fittings (like 90*) fittings where i need them to be, tight and not leaking?

dstig1 · Jan 22, 2013

It helps a lot to have some sort of swivel fitting in a line somewhere to make alignment easier. Then things like this become a non-issue. Otherwise I have found that steel hydraulic fittings can handle that extra half turn of over-tightening better than you might expect. There is always a limit, of course, but you should be talking about no more than 3/4 of a turn, in any case. Others with more experience will probably have other ideas...

pedalstomper78 · Jan 22, 2013

I always count how many times I go around with the teflon tape. If I need more or less turns to line up, I'll re-do the tape with a bit more or less. Hasn't failed me so far.

PILOON · Jan 22, 2013

I notice lots of NPT fittings have epoxy on threads.
For sure that would seal well and once set not leak as well as hold pressure.
Future release would simply want heat to break the bond.

Zebrafive · Jan 23, 2013

Another reason I do not like NPT fittings.
I would (if you have room) use an adapter fitting. Male NPT to Female SAE (ORB) then use an SAE (ORB) 90 that has a nut you tighten to hold desired position.

medic0648 · Jan 23, 2013

IIRC orb will fit npt thread and work as long as the mating surface is flat and there is a bevel already machined into the threads.

Soundguy · Jan 23, 2013

put a swivel in the hole, and then put the elbow in the swivel.

mikehaugen · Jan 23, 2013

not sure if this is relevant to what you are asking, but don't ever back off once you have tightened. I will usually tighten the fitting close to where it needs to be, but always on the "might need a little more" side, then once the other pieces are assembled tighten just that little bit more to get it where you need it. If you ever have to back off because you went to far (and didn't realize it until some of the next pieces were together) then you will have to remove it and re-tape or re-dope it.

puckgrinder85 · Jan 23, 2013

Soundguy said:
put a swivel in the hole, and then put the elbow in the swivel.

can you link me to what you speak of, I'm not following. I need to 90* out of a valve, I have room to go outwards from the valve but no much room anywhere else. Sounds like this swivel may help but I've never seen on. I tried getting ORB ports on the valve but it was a special order item and I had to order 100 of them.

Soundguy · Jan 23, 2013

you can get a male to female pipe swivel. you screw the male into the valve with dope and get it tight. then you take a male to female hyd elbow.. put the male intot he swivel in desired orientation, and then tighten. no dope needed.. the seal is on a bevel kinda like a jic. from there, it's a normal pipe fitting.. male or female onthe other side of the elbow.. your choice..

puckgrinder85 · Jan 23, 2013

Ok, I think I know what you're saying. Take a NPT male/ female swivel and thread it into the block and then just use the appropriate elbow for what I want at the end of the elbow.

puckgrinder85 · Jan 23, 2013

I suppose one thing I havnt thought of is I could get the hoses themselves made with 90* ends and just use npt to a ........ adaptor.

medic0648 · Jan 23, 2013

You can usually get the hose ends with a 90* bend. But it will cost quite a bit more. In my area it's about $12-15 for a 24in straight npt hose. It's about $40 to have the same hose made with 1 90* bend fitting.

medic0648 · Jan 23, 2013

The 90* bend fittings are about $6-12 at tractor supply. They usually have swivel fittings.

Soundguy · Jan 24, 2013

do plan the hoses for easy removal and replacement if needed.

in an emergency.. many farm stores sell basic 'foot' lengths of npt to npt hyd hose.

thus if your valve bank has the elbows with swivels built in, it lets you run cheap basic hoses to and from.. that way, when you pop a hose on a sunday afternoon before a monday holiday and need that tree stump out of your driveway.. you can hit TSC and buy an off the shelf hose to get you going again. ( or keep a generic 6' emergency hose ont he shelf. IE.. one that will / could fit many different palces on your machine in case of an emergency.. even iff you did have to coil it out of the way on a short run.

BTDT...

good luck

puckgrinder85 · Jan 24, 2013

5700 NPTF Pipe Steel Fittings Coupling | Brennan 5700 Tompkins 5700

This would work wouldnt it? I just need two for the valve, after that everything else is in the open where I can figure it all out, but these two lines need to be near perfect. This way I keep the 1/2 npt on both sides, the swivel just allows me to tighten it down as much as I need.

Soundguy · Jan 24, 2013

well.. that fitting actually has an oring I think, and will swivel once tightened too. not what I would use.

I'd use a male to female swivel.. wher ethe female tightened down hard with no oring swivel... but that's me..

Zebrafive · Jan 25, 2013

puckgrinder85 said:
5700 NPTF Pipe Steel Fittings Coupling | Brennan 5700 Tompkins 5700

This would work wouldnt it? I just need two for the valve, after that everything else is in the open where I can figure it all out, but these two lines need to be near perfect. This way I keep the 1/2 npt on both sides, the swivel just allows me to tighten it down as much as I need.

If you go to the same website and search 1404. I think this is the fitting Soundguy was refering to. Put this fitting in your valve then put the 90 degree fitting in it. The swivel will let you tighten the 90 degree fitting any where you want it.

Soundguy · Jan 25, 2013

yeppers! .. what I'd do anyway.

one less oring to leak..

puckgrinder85 · Jan 25, 2013

Yea, that would work as well. I have a hydraulic place a few blocks down the road and I talked with him today. I tried to explain my dilema and he said I could just do a male to male pipe tap out of the valve and he has the 90* swivels he can crimp on the hose. My necessity for the tractor isnt a huge deal if something were to happen on the weekend, I dont "work" other than around my own land so I may just go that route as it saves space. The above fitting would work however I have limited space but the swivel fitting is nice that it will clamp down and the line wont turn after I have it where I want it.

I have to pull the fender off to replace the valve, at that time i'll look at the logistics of using each fitting and see what works the best.