Not satisfied with Oregon chainsaws sharpener. Any ideas or advice?

[4570Man]

I bought an Oregon chainsaw sharpener and even paid good money for a CBN wheel that’s supposed to eliminate this. Some teeth it does a pretty decent job although not as good as new. On other teeth it leaves a bad burr. I’ve got the head set at 60 degrease and the table angled at 30 degrease.

 

[4570Man]

I’ve since tried again with a never sharpened before, but dull chain and had better results although still not as good as I was hoping for. One problem that I’m not real thrilled about is the wheel has some runout. As in enough that when you hold a piece of metal to it lightly it bounces. I haven’t had time to check to see if it’s coming from the motor or the wheel. I checked the motor shaft and it seemed pretty good. I guess I should get my dial indicator out and mark the high spot and rotate the wheel on the shaft and try again.

 

[CADplans]

If I am guessing correctly, both right and left teeth are ground from the same side of the chain??

If so, one tooth will have a "burr", the other will not,, due to grinding into versus away from the tooth,,,
That is just metalworking,,,
My guess is that the burr is meaningless,, try the chain, if it cuts straight,, all is good,,,

 

[tjkubota93]

I have an Oregon grinder that I have not used (long story)

But I had a problem with the table out of the box. Called Oregon and the people were borderline jerks and I had to leave a message for the guy that deals with this stuff. He called back the next day, was a real nice guy and sent me a new table that he had checked out. Along with a hat and a keychain.

So, if the problem is the grinder, Oregon will step up. In my experience anyway.

Arborist site has a few guys that eat sleep and breathe sharpening chains.

 

[4570Man]

I haven’t had a chance to cut with the chain yet. I have determined it’s the arbor causing the runout. I tried filling it with it running but that didn’t make any difference. I’m going to try shimming it. It’s 11 thousandth of runout measured like this.

 

[tjkubota93]

I read that you can re wire that switch and make the motor reversible?

I cant remember exactly why, but it seems like for your problem.

I think they may have used to sell reversible ones but not anymore because safety?

Theres alot of info out there about this stuff. It's been a while since I looked at any.

 

[tjkubota93]

http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=96451.0

 

[tjkubota93]

I haven’t had a chance to cut with the chain yet. I have determined it’s the arbor causing the runout. I tried filling it with it running but that didn’t make any difference. I’m going to try shimming it. It’s 11 thousandth of runout measured like this.View attachment 577933

Call Oregon if the arbor is bad.

 

[CalG]

Learn to hold a hand file. It's not hard!

jeesh... where is my nanny when I need her to operate the chainsaw sharpening do-dad?

 

[4570Man]

Call Oregon if the arbor is bad.

I think bad would be a stretch. It’s within a couple thousands. How much can you expect from a $170 unit? I installed a shim and got it to about 5 thousands run out at the outside of the wheel.

 

[4570Man]

Learn to hold a hand file. It's not hard!

jeesh... where is my nanny when I need her to operate the chainsaw sharpening do-dad?

Doing a good job isn’t a piece of cake. I’ve met way more people that think they can sharpen a saw, but suck at it than those that really can do a good hand file job. Over the 3 hours or so I’ve played with this unit I rate it at 90 percent as good as a new chain although if yet to cut wood yet. My Timberline did a better job but it’s slow and tedious. And it hurts my back to sit hunched over a saw in the ground so regardless of the method used I prefer to take the saw back to the shop bench for sharpening.

 

[4570Man]

I read that you can re wire that switch and make the motor reversible?

I cant remember exactly why, but it seems like for your problem.

I think they may have used to sell reversible ones but not anymore because safety?

Theres alot of info out there about this stuff. It's been a while since I looked at any.

I haven’t got that far but I think the results would be better if it was reversible.

 

[oosik]

WoW - I would think that a unit like that would make the job go easier/faster. I have one of those - clamp on the bar - Oregon sharpeners. I fiddle and fart with it for about half an hour to get my chain sharp again.

The major problem here - all my big 'ol Ponderosa pines still have copious quantities of Mt St Helens ash in their bark. Does two things - shines up the chain like a new dime - that ash will rapidly dull the chain.

I can get thru an entire day of cutting - sharpen at the end of the day - have to debark the trunk prior to making a cut.

 

[ericm979]

Are you sharpening the tooth in tiny hits like in this video?

Oregon 52-12 and 41-12 Electric Chainsaw Chain Sharpener Instructions - YouTube

On the final hit they're grinding for longer than I prefer. I do all small hits and I don't end up with a big burr like that. I also don't take much off the teeth.. just enough to make them sharp again.

 

[4570Man]

I was at the time the op was made. I’ve come to the conclusion that the CBN wheel works better in a continuous but very light grinding motion. Unless the chain is damaged I’m taking off less metal then he did at the very end. He must be taking off 1/4 of the tooth. I’ve also determined a chain with damage is better sharpened with 2 passages around instead of trying to get it all at once.

 

[tjkubota93]

Doing a good job isn’t a piece of cake. I’ve met way more people that think they can sharpen a saw, but suck at it than those that really can do a good hand file job. Over the 3 hours or so I’ve played with this unit I rate it at 90 percent as good as a new chain although if yet to cut wood yet. My Timberline did a better job but it’s slow and tedious. And it hurts my back to sit hunched over a saw in the ground so regardless of the method used I prefer to take the saw back to the shop bench for sharpening.

I sold my timberline for the same reason. Worked great but sheesh. I probably used it enough to cover its cost, then sold it. Only downfall, I cant take the Oregon to work to use during down time.....

 

[Industrial Toys]

It's nice to have a quality sharpener and two hooks somewhere. One for nicely sharpened chains ready to go and another for dull ones. When you are heading out, the last thing you want is to start messing with chains.

 

[Yooper75]

I hand sharpen my chains using one of these to sharpen the chains on the bar my neighbor is a logger turned me onto them. He uses these as well when he's in the woods.

Husqvarna Chainsaw Sharpeners and Filing Equipment File Kits