No Go with Glow Plugs

[thebudman]

OK- when I try to heat the glow plugs prior to a cold start, I notice the amp needle does not move. I assume that if the plugs are heating, the needle should bury itself and then slowly creep up to the mid-position. So, I check the fuse---- fuse is good. So, I repalced the fuse. Nothing. So I then cleaned the contacts and sprayed some WD-40 on the fuse panel. Still nothing.

All of which leads me to ask: if it's not a fuse-related issue, then what is the problem, and, more importantly, how do I fix it?

 

[Transit]

Ok, go to the CTOA site and under ARTICALS look for my diagram showing how the glow plugs are wired. This should help you see how it works.

 

[TTTTTT]

OK- when I try to heat the glow plugs prior to a cold start, I notice the amp needle does not move. I assume that if the plugs are heating, the needle should bury itself and then slowly creep up to the mid-position. So, I check the fuse---- fuse is good. So, I repalced the fuse. Nothing. So I then cleaned the contacts and sprayed some WD-40 on the fuse panel. Still nothing.

All of which leads me to ask: if it's not a fuse-related issue, then what is the problem, and, more importantly, how do I fix it?

Did you notice current draw when activating preheat switch prior. If you have a meter, probe on a clean GP tip ( each one) or busbar as you activate your preheat switch. Should read in the 8 amp range. At least then you will know for sure if power is even getting to the GP's and you will eliminate everything but the ammeter itself. After that if no power, could be a variety of things, such as switch, bad ground, bad wire -coroded/broken/ connector etc.

Good luck Dave

 

[greg_g]

Find the place near the fuel tank where a wire (probably green) attaches to the glow plug buss bar. Disconnect the wire from the buss. Put the red (+) lead from a multimeter on the wire, and the black (-) lead to ground. Rotate the keyswitch to the HEAT position. If you don't see a nominal 12 volts DC, either the wire's broken between the buss and the switch - or the switch has begun to self destruct (not uncommon for Chinese key switches)

//greg//

 

[thebudman]

Find the place near the fuel tank where a wire (probably green) attaches to the glow plug buss bar. Disconnect the wire from the buss. Put the red (+) lead from a multimeter on the wire, and the black (-) lead to ground. Rotate the keyswitch to the HEAT position. If you don't see a nominal 12 volts DC, either the wire's broken between the buss and the switch - or the switch has begun to self destruct (not uncommon for Chinese key switches)

//greg//

I will give that a try. How involved is replacing the key switch? I haven't even looked at it--- will I need to pull alot of things out of the way to be able to access it?

Also, until today, I had never heard of a "buss bar".

 

[greg_g]

Buss bar is typically the copper strip that connects the glow plugs in parallel. A few I've seen have wires strung between the glow plugs instead of the copper strip.

Keyswitch replacement is a piece of cake, provided you buy the right replacement switch. I recommend the old fashioned Ford tractor cold start switch. That gives you the added advantage of keeping the glow plugs energized while the starter motor is turning. Unscrew the jam nut that tightens the switch to the dash, push it through, pull it out from underneath.

//greg//

 

[thebudman]

Buss bar is typically the copper strip that connects the glow plugs in parallel. A few I've seen have wires strung between the glow plugs instead of the copper strip.

Keyswitch replacement is a piece of cake, provided you buy the right replacement switch. I recommend the old fashioned Ford tractor cold start switch. That gives you the added advantage of keeping the glow plugs energized while the starter motor is turning. Unscrew the jam nut that tightens the switch to the dash, push it through, pull it out from underneath.

//greg//

Thanks for the advice. Assuming it is the switch, where is the best place to get a replacement? Kragen or Napa? Or a tractor supply store? I found this one on-line for $25.00----

This Ford tractor ignition switch works with all Ford tractors with cold start. Replaces E7NN11N501AC.

 

[greg_g]

Yeah, that sounds like the right one. But - unless it's an actual (used) Ford switch - that's kinda pricey. New ones - if/when you can find them - go for $65-$70 bucks. Used ones $30-$40. More common are the Chinese clones down in the $10-$15 range. They're not as good as true Ford switches, but still a far site better than what comes with the tractor. CLICK HERE.

It's got 5 connectors in the back instead of 4. But I've installed them before, and can help you with the hookup if necessary.

//greg//

 

[Willl]

Bud, lets not assume. Do you have a volt meter ?

 

[thebudman]

Yes I do. I'll take a look at it this weekend. Thanks again for all the good advice.

 

[TheSheriff]

Pardon me if I dumb this way, way down, since I didn't see my solution addressed.

Synopsis. I'm a first time tractor owner.... had my 2010 284 since June. As summer passed and temps dropped into the 40's, the tractor refused to start. I bought a Kats magnetic heater. That helped but not much. I assumed I did not have three bad glow plugs since the tractor was so new. I figured this tractor just didn't like the cold... I have read those types of posts here and had no other tractor experience to compare to.

Reading this and other posts, I tested my GP circuit. I ran a jumper from the battery to the GP buss bar for 20 seconds. The tractor started so fast (40 temps, no pre-heat) it actually startled me!

After more tests with the MM, I determined the problem must be with the switch. I called my dealer.

And now, the rest of the story....

It turns out I had not actually used my GP's for my first 100 hours, until now. I thought I understood my dealers instructions on the ignition when I took delivery, but nope.

What I didn't realize was that the GP heat position was in that spring-loaded, no detent, past ON, best guess how far to turn the key before you bump the starter, position!!!

I'm sure this is a big, "Duh" to most of you, but based on the information I was originally given, it was a pleasant revelation to me.

This is probably not the OP's problem, but it might help some other newb who lands here after a Google search.

 

[Argosy]

What I didn't realize was that the GP heat position was in that spring-loaded, no detent, past ON, best guess how far to turn the key before you bump the starter, position!!!

It would be pretty easy to put an indicator light in the dash to show you when you activated the glow plugs.

 

[Diamondpilot]

It would be pretty easy to put an indicator light in the dash to show you when you activated the glow plugs.

This was the first thing I did to my tractor in 2003 when I got it.

Chris

 

[robert421960]

why not just look at ammeter and watch it?
is there something better about a light?

 

[jonyyuma]

Point being, maybe he did not turn the switch far enough? Next check for voltage at the said point. Either way should see a reaction from the current draw to the glow plugs. It is highly unlikely they all failed together unless machine has a lot of hours.Glow plugs are tough little devils, except on chevy trucks? Jy.

 

[greg_g]

Some of the alternators only put out enough current to recharge the battery. It's possible that the ammeter has a rather low scale and might get pegged when the glow plugs are on.

Ummmm, the alternator isn't in the circuit until the engine is actually running.

//greg//

 

[robert421960]

Ummmm, the ammeter isn't in the circuit until the engine is actually running.

//greg//

im not sure i understand what greg is saying cause he is great help
but i do know when i activate my glow plugs the ammeter does go to the negative side by alot
i can let go of switch and it goes back to the middle or very close
am i missing something greg?

 

[greg_g]

You're not missing anything. My brain was thinking alternator, but my fingers typed ammeter. The mistake has been fixed.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Otherwise, the alternator has nothing to do with the glow plugs.

Concur, but it has little to do with charging rate or meter range either. Another significant reason there's only a 30 amp meter, is that the electrical system is engineered around a 30A system fuse. Any load in excess of 30A should blow the system fuse before causing any lasting damage to the ammeter.

But if someone were to screw that particular pooch by putting in a larger capacity system fuse - let's say to install high powered lighting for example - THEN there should be a counterpart ammeter upgrade. Short of that, the system is designed to handle a simultaneous load of 3 (healthy) energized glow plugs AND a (healthy) starter motor. Probably not a good idea to try that with the lights on though.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

Tell me about the GM Durajunk motors eating glow plugs. I had a 05 that I traded after 9 months because of all the issues. Glow plugs where just the start. It ate injectors and fuses like candy. Never again. Ford Powerstrokes for me now on.

Chris