No 2210 Loader Float? Snowblower instead?

[Wildman1]

Cadblaster..
I had a Craftsman 20hp 2WD garden tractor with a 42" single stage blower and it did a great job. My 47" JD on the 2210 is the 2 stage and works better, of course, but the Craftsman did the job.

I personally think, based upon my experience with the single stage Craftsman that a single stage unit would do you fine, especially considering your locale and your higher performance tractor. Blades aren't my preference at all. I do a better job in the same time as my neighbor using his Western truck mounted snowplow...and he finally admitted it!

Yeah, all these implements and the tractor are pricey..but..I'll never have to buy another tractor.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

You may want to consider a rear 3 point snowblower. I have a Puma 54 inch unit I paid $1000 for it in May 02. Last winter with 2 feet of snow I had no problem moving the snow with the BX 2200. I have a FEL and the combination of a rear snowblower and FEL works great. The only down side is you have to back up with the rear blower. The up side is it is cheaper then a front blower by about half. I know the machine and color is wrong for this board, but here is what I am taking about, see attached. The cab is a golf cart cover I made up for $125. You do not want to snow blow without some sort of a cab.

Puma Site web page

 

[bigpete]

I would be surprised to even FIND a blade in Chugiak, Alaska. Bring that blower to the Mid-atlantic and I'll race you with my 54 blade /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[djsch]

Cadblaster,
I have a 2210 with a 47" 2 stage snowblower. You can see it on the first posting of the "2210 Club" thread. I also bought the loader. Both use the float position. Having tried both for moving snow already, I recommend the blower. I can blow the snow 40-60 feet away and as you said its just gone, no piles, no drifting. And its MUCH faster. The only marks on my driveway are where my ashpalt contractor put too much crown on it (and ones I made with the loader before I learned how to run it properly. I just have to be careful not to straddle that hump and all is well - same problem with the loader. Only problem is if you have to blow upwind or the neighbors are real close. Then you have to lower the discharge chute but doing so will let you place the snow wherever you want.

As for removing it... It doesn't take long but there are 3 pieces to take off before you can put the loader on. First you disconnect 2 hoses, disconnect the driveshaft, and pull two pins and back away from the blower. Then you pull 2 more pins and disconnect 2 more hoses and lift off the quick hitch. Finally you disconnect the front PTO driveshaft, pull one more L.O.N.G pin and you're done. It takes about 5 minutes. The hardest part is crawling under to disconnect the front PTO driveshaft.

So far I've moved wet snow (almost slush) and "normal" snow and it works well in all conditions. The skids are easily adjusted (with a wrench) so you can set how "clean" it will be behind you. You can add some downpressure if there is any tendency to ride up. Last, there's power to spare! So far I haven't been able to make the engine act like its actually working even when pushing so much snow that it spills over the top of the blower! Also, in tight spots where there's no place to blow it, you can still use it like a blade to push a pile somewhere else and then start the blower up and make it disappear. Kinda like a blade but not quite as functional...

Hope this is helpful,
Dave