NH TC30 Hydraulic Remotes

[riversedge]

Hello All,

I've been reading and learning for awhile and as a first post have a question. I've operated heavy equipment all my life but never had much experience in rigging hydraulics.


I have a NH TC30, about 110 hours of firewood processing and driveway maintenance on it now. I'm working on a 1/2 mile driveway that hasn't been kept up properly in 10 or more years. It needs restored drainage etc. My used old rear blade and landscape rake isn't cutting it.

I have alot of attachments on the wish list but first is a box blade. Inspired by Rob and others on here I'd like to have Top N Tilt on it. I called my dealer I purchased the machine from and asked about adding two hydraulic remotes. He said that the NH only offers one remote for the 30.

So does anyone have any experience adding remotes to a TC30 for Top N Tilt? I have a woodsplitter where they rigged one line off my FEL circuitry, the other line connects to a quick connect fitting plumbed into where the remote valve should attach. That point is inside of the rear right wheel just below where the 3pt adjustment lever control attaches. I don't know if that would offer any help or not.

Thanks in advance!

Matt

 

[jinman]

Matt, I think you have two choices. The first is to use one remote with a selector valve for each cylinder and buy your TnT setup from CCM. The CCM cylinders have pilot operated check valves and will hold firm in the position you leave them. You can install a manual selector and easily control which cylinder you need to adjust from one remote.

The second choice is to use your hydraulics power beyond and build a dual valve setup yourself with aftermarket parts.

Personally, I think your easiest solution would be to get the single factory remote and a manual selector valve with the CCM cylinders. That way you will only have to select top or tilt and then use your single remote to make your desired adjustment.

 

[kennyd]

You can get a nice joystick valve for $170, plus hoses and fittings you could add two remotes for under $400 if your handy and can fab your own bracket for the valve. You would tap into the power beyond connections like jinman said.

 

[riversedge]

Jim-

Yeah that makes sense. I wondered if that might be what I would have to do if I could only get one remote. Just figuring out the nuts and bolts will be fun. So basically power off the remote, then to a selector valve and from there to the control valve and cylinder.

Kenny thanks that sounds great. I'm more of a kit guy, I don't have the time or patience really to engineer anything myself.

Either way I guess it would be good to start with intalling the remote kit and then going from there right?

 

[kennyd]

Price a "power beyond" kit from our dealer if you are considering adding your own valve. ou are going to have to get your hand dirty and put something together yourself since NH will only offer you on remote. Whether you add a valve like I suggested or a diverter like jinman talked of...it will all be custom project.

 

[jinman]

Matt, what gave me some doubt about your tractor's setup was the way you said your log-splitter is plumbed. It sounds like power beyond may already be in use. If your dealer did this plumbing, I'd talk to him about how that circuit might be affected with the additions kennyd and I are suggesting.

I think if you add a remote, you will be able to run your log-splitter off that remote instead of how you are now running it. You can plug in your log-splitter to the quick-connects on the remote. When you finish with your log-splitter, you can disconnect it and connect back to the TnT selector valve.

I've made a simple block diagram that shows the function of the selector valve and how it would be placed into the system and connected to the remote's quick-connect. These are not standard hydraulic symbols, but just a layout illustration. Your dealer might be able to install this selector for you if you don't feel comfortable doing that yourself. He will have to mount the valve and plumb it to the the TnT cylinders plus have hoses with quick connects going to the remote's outlets. You are gonna have quite a few extra hoses on the back of your tractor any way you look at it.

Whether you go with the fully configured system kennyd suggests by using power beyond or the remote and selector I suggest, I think you'll be happy you took the time to put this together. TnT is a very handy feature and I love mine.

 

[riversedge]

Jim,

Thanks I've been doing some reading and have seen yours and Kenny are suggesting and it's starting to make sense. I think the power beyond is a good idea with the valve setup. I'm wondering if I can add the remotes and then get a power beyond off from the remote. Which I think is what I'm seeing in this thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/nh-owning-operating/98724-757b-bh-my-1720-a.html

What you have in the diagram is using the hydraulic remote valve to operate each cylinder independentaly, so operating it would be: adjust top link with remote valve selector and it would maintain it's setting. Then switch selector valve to sidelink and use the same remote control handle to operate the sidelink. Is that correct? To see if I understand correctly adding a joystick valve instead from a power beyond port would allow me to not have a selector valve and just use the joystick to operate both cylinders. LEFT/RIGHT for sidelink and FOR/AFT for toplink. Without a seperate selector valve or utilizing the remote valve at all. Correct?? That setup seems ideal to have a joystick mounted on the ROPS behind the seat would be the best spot to keep and eye on the 3pt.

I would seem easier to use a power beyond in the rear where I need it anyway. If that's possible. I think the logsplitter is hooked up to the power beyond on the FEL now that makes sense from what I'm learning. Getting rid of the hose going to the FEL valve back to the woodsplitter would be cleaner and easier also.

My other thought is eventually I would like to add a grabble/brush fork set up for the FEL and would need to use a power beyond for the grapple, I'm assuming I could use that FEL PB to operate that. I would rather that be with and electric solenoid valve or some other type of well placed valve close to the joystick. I wouldn't want to reach behind to operate it. I don't know if both PB valves would have to be run in series together??? I just want to plan ahead so I don't put something in and have to rework it all in a year.

I'm away from home now when I get back I'll take some pics and maybe you can tell me what you think of the current setup and how best to tie in the new valve. Monday I'll call the dealer and get some answers there on adding PB/Remote Thanks to you guys I'm learning enough to ask the dealer a few more intelligent questions on what's possible. I appreciate the help!

By the way I see your from aviation training! I'm in aviation too! What kind of chipper do you have?

Matt

 

[kennyd]

Matt,

Think of the PB as a big "loop". You can insert a valve into that loop anywhere you need it. That IS how your splitter is hooked up now...I missed that you had a splitter already plumbed when I suggested you price a PB kit earlier.

Adding a valve will be very easy...I can suggest some when/if your ready.

 

[jinman]

By the way I see your from aviation training! I'm in aviation too! What kind of chipper do you have?

Matt

Matt, I'm actually retired from aviation training. I need to update my profile. I have been in technical training from the days when the chalkboard was the primary delivery tool. Then we advanced to overhead projectors, slide projectors, and finally to fully integrated multimedia and web-based multimedia. That covers a span of 35 years. Last year, I decided I wanted to retire and push dirt around my property. My wife can attest to the fact that I now mostly dress in T-shirts and jeans that are wet, dirty, or greasy. I have a closet full of dress shirts and ties that are inactive.

My chipper/shredder is a Bush Hog CS-100p model that they don't sell anymore. I use it mostly to grind up cedar trimmings, but I don't use it as much as I should. Maybe that will change in retirement.

What you are talking about witht the joystick and power beyond is very doable. You have to decide where you want to go with your technical knowledge and this DIY project as opposed to getting the work done. Custom hydraulic work by others is normally expensive. You'll have to find the best balance of DIY and getting help from your dealer. Just remember that with every new hydraulic feature, you will have hoses, fittings, and routing to deal with. A joystick valve using power beyond will have 6 or 7 hoses attached. Look at your current joystick valve and you'll see the number of hydraulic lines required. Doing a neat and professional job is extremely important to a successful build. Even the selector valve off the remote is 6 hoses. It's just not as simple as hooking two hoses from a log-splitter to a remote valve's quidk-connects. With all the plumbing, you have to do a lot of planning and layout so it doesn't turn into a "spider's nest."

The nice thing about a joystick is that you can put quick connects on it's output side and use the single joystick to run almost anything you want to attach. The joystick will probably be best for 3PH hydraulic attachments while building an electric solenoid operated diverter valve off your FEL joystick will be the best for a grapple. If I read your last post correctly, that's exactly what you intend to do. . . sounds like a plan to me.

 

[riversedge]

Jim,

Thanks I'll ask some more later on, just wanted to post some pics while I have the opportunity. Still waiting on the dealer for an answer on remote availability.

Matt