Next Project, Tie Rod Repair

[Matt W]

I will attempt to remove the broken part, it shows no signs the previous guy with a welder even tried to get it out!
Any tips on how to properly line up the wheels? The tire on the poorly repaired side is wearing a lot faster than the left side. And you can see in the photo where it's rubbing the bumper.

 

[CalG]

Jack the front off the ground.
Center the steering gear.

Remove the wheels (they may be bent)

Measure from the hubs with a tape measure or a STICK!

Zero toe to 1/2 degree toe in should work well.

 

[Matt W]

Thanks, too much toe in is definitely the problem on the right side.

 

[CalG]

Thanks, too much toe in is definitely the problem on the right side.

Toe is not so0mething that can be attributed to one side or the other.

If the tractor is going straight ahead, the steering wheel might not be centered, but the tire toe will be EQUAL between the two front wheels.

It's just how it is.

N.B> there can be othe factors, but it is not Toe !

Castor, camber and toe. Three degrees of freedom, or constraint...

There are NO EXCEPTIONS!

 

[Matt W]

That was my understanding about toe as well, But the tire on the side with the welded end is worn bad and the other tire is decent. Also the other side doesn't rub the frame. Been that way since I got it recently. When I get it up and into it there may be some other bent part.

 

[CADplans]

Is it possible that the original end snapped off, and rather than dealing with removal of the broken end, the previous owner simply welded the new one along side the tie rod ?

What does the other side look like? can the other side still be adjusted?

If the geometry is different, do to relocating the tie rod end, that could cause tire wear, even if the toe in measures correct.

 

[Matt W]

"looks like the welded end should be longer too." Yeah, even more obvious seeing it than in the photo.

"the previous owner simply welded the new one along side the tie rod ?" you can see the threaded part still in the rod.

"can the other side still be adjusted?" Yeah, the left side looks normal and no excessive wear on that tire.

I'm a little amazed the bad side tire is noticeably wearing on dirt and grass, but the Previous user could have used it on pavement.

 

[Matt W]

All done! Aggravating job. Both rod ends were seized into the rod. Had to weld on nuts, heat to red a few times and work back and forth with an impact to get out the broken piece as well as the whole one. Then chase the corroded threads with a tap. Main axel pivot was loose and the cylinder ball joint was loose. luckily the cylinder rod ball joint wasn't seized since it had to come out about 3/4" to stop the tire from rubbing the bumper.

Figured out a trick on the piece that was broken near flush with the rod end. Welded a washer to the broken piece first then welded a big nut to the washer. Gave a lot more area to weld the nut and not dependent on just the plug weld done through the center of nut. Worked great since I wound up using a long breaker bar to get even a tiny amount of movement to start. Not sure if all this will end the excessive wear on the right side. I found nothing else that appeared bent, broken or loose.

 

[Cycledude]

Hopefully you also gave it a decent grease job

 

[Matt W]

Yeah, lots of grease. Except the ball joint on the ps cylinder has no zerk and I can't find my grease needle. Will have to get one and slip some grease up under the boot.

Oh, Thanks to Dart1917 for the Rock Auto number ES323R for the rod ends.