Newbie with first tractor

[greenmule]

So,it was said methinal rusts your rims,WRONG,it was said methinal freezes at minus 20,WRONG again.

Yeah,beet juice weighs more,said that on my first post here.

As far as hurting tire over say 20 years,I don't know,but the guy and my dealer have been putting methinal in tires for a long time,and they still do,so...I doubt it will hurt tires myself and if it did,it would be so far down the road,that you'd be ready for new tires anyways.[or more likly,new tractor].

 

[WH401]

So,it was said methinal rusts your rims,WRONG,it was said methinal freezes at minus 20,WRONG again.

Yeah,beet juice weighs more,said that on my first post here.

As far as hurting tire over say 20 years,I don't know,but the guy and my dealer have been putting methinal in tires for a long time,and they still do,so...I doubt it will hurt tires myself and if it did,it would be so far down the road,that you'd be ready for new tires anyways.[or more likly,new tractor].

The fact that you say methanol, (which btw is spelled with an o not an i), isn't corrosive or damaging is of your personal opinion more than fact. If you had read my last post correctly I said -

I agree, I would worry more about it hurting the tire rather than the rim.

- meaning that I worry more about the tire than the rim, not that I wouldn't worry about the rim at all. Secondly, in my previous post I said -

Pure methanol freezes at around -140 F, but there would be no point in putting pure meth in a tire due to the insignificant weight gain.

- meaning pure methonal, not the mixture, the mixture is going to have a much higher freeze point because your going to have more water than meth in it. It would be ridiculous and pointless to fill your tires 100% full of meth. There would be no sensible reason other than the freeze point and even that wouldn't even be worth it because there isn't anywhere around here where you are going to get even remotely close to -140.

 

[MrDouglas]

Thank you all for your input. I'm going to bypass the ballast thing. If i need weight in back I have a 72" tiller that can do the job.

PS WH401, Used to live in Rising Sun and Baltimore....Never seen snow like in your pic, more like Michigan.

 

[WH401]

PS WH401, Used to live in Rising Sun and Baltimore....Never seen snow like in your pic, more like Michigan.

I know what you mean, it's not typical snow for here. Back on March 3rd a nice size storm came up from the south and dumped a good bit of snow. We got 8 inches here in La Plata and about 30 miles south in Leonardtown they got 12"+. It was a nice change of pace and it gave me a great opportunity to use the tractor in some snow for the first time. Every few years we're lucky enough to get a nice snow like that.

 

[greenmule]

Well,wh402-3,we'll just have to stop agrueing about methinal,cause you ain't having any impact on me[or my spelling].

 

[WH401]

Well,wh402-3,we'll just have to stop agrueing about methinal,cause you ain't having any impact on me[or my spelling].

So I noticed.

 

[greenmule]

But it was still nice all the same.
Man said to heck with it if it was all that much trouble he wasn't even going to get them filled!

Theres other reasons to get them loaded than traction,it really helps the sideways stability,have noticed that. Course mine are industrials which put you tractor lower and are wider,but bet in ag's they would as well.

 

[WH401]

Theres other reasons to get them loaded than traction,it really helps the sideways stability,have noticed that.

I totally agree with you there, loaded tires really help keep the tractor stabilized on a side slope. Keeps all the weight closer to the ground.

 

[whistlepig]

If you don't have the tires filled you will be disappointed. It makes a big difference on a tractor. If not filling the tires then at least get wheel weights. Rim Guard is is the best thing going now. Won't corrode the rims, won't hurt the tire, and doesn't cost that much more than calcium chloride. People are trying everything to fill tires to save a couple of bucks. Even windshield washer fluid. A far as puncturing a rear tire on a tractor that's pretty rare. They are pretty gosh darn tough. I did commercial mowing of vacant lots for realtors for several years. I have heard hundreds of beer bottles and soda bottles pop under these tires and not a single flat. Ran over everything imaginable. The only flats I ever got was the rim corrosion from the calcium chloride. Fill the tires with Rim Guard and consider it money well spent.

 

[Trippy]

After reading up on the 5000 series tractors I am glad I had ballast put in my 5203. It is the same tractor as the 5056, which is just a new design of the 5203. Every one that left a review on the 5000 series said they were light in the tail for their power. Over all good reviews but lots said they were light on the rear tires. Adding items over the 3 point helps or you can invest in a ballast box that will greatly improve your traction during loader work. But nothing gets past the weight in the tires for stability + Traction.
I find dealers want to sell wheel weights before ballast. Mainly because they have profit with wheel weights. Most dealers have to contract out for ballast. Cost wise pound for pound the wheel weights are double the price of bio ballast. Perhaps you can look into RimGuard from your local tire repair guy. It is 9.6 pounds per gallon. This would add 500 pounds to a 14.9-28, with 53 gallons per tire. I got that ballast in my tires for less then 500$. The 110 lbs wheel weights quoted at 147$ per weight, would have made 440 lbs per tire weight cost 1176.
I know your shying away from ballast but I would recommend looking into it a little further before you commit to no ballast. If money is not an object get the wheel weights. Although you can ballast your tires 2 times with bio ballast at the same price. You have to look at what kind of hazards your working in to determine how often you have to fix flat tires. Wheel weights might be your best option if you have that kind of driving hazards.