Newbie Help 3-point tool bar

[Spike56]

I am trying to understand what tool bar I should get. A tool bar (to me) includes the bar and the "3-point" "frame". What I am trying to understand is:
- is there a "standard" or rather, a "common" size for the tool bar ? I see various sizes 2", 2.5".... on and on
- also, even in the same size bar, some appear to be oriented in a diamond configuration, some not ?

I have a 55 HP (jd2355). My goal is to run say 2-3 coulters one day, then say 2-3 chisels (what I call them), then maybe even a single subsoiler...
I am very confused about which size would have the most available tools / easy to find.
- still work full-time so, I will NOT be hunting at auctions or used equipment places. Would prefer to buy new.

Any suggestions and sources to look at are appreciated.

:confused2:

 

[jeff9366]

Ideally, I want to work 7.5 acres (my hay field). IF I find something acceptable, I would also use in the pastures in places.

Buckeye Tractor in Ohio offers many implements based on TPH tool bars. Once you obtain a tool bar you can interchange ground contact parts among different venders.

You will find BT's web site a good reference.

The more power your tractor has, the greater circumference and steel thickness you need in the box frame supporting the ground contact points. "Danish" S-tines have limited strength.

I have a 55 HP (jd2355).

My goal is to run say 2-3 coulters (?) one day, then say 2-3 chisels (?) (what I call them), then maybe even a single subsoiler...

I know of no tool bar clamp which could withstand the draft force resistance exerted on a Subsoiler sunk 6" or more.

LINK: Buckeye Tractor Co -- Online


Woodward Crossing is another Tool Bar vender. You can buy just a 2" X 2" hitch from Woodward.

LINK: Wunderbar Module Archives | Woodward Crossings Country Basics


T-B-N ARCHIVE (2) : https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/425742-my-experience-danish-s-tine.html?highlight=

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/339095-dirt-dog-all-purpose-plow.html?highlight=

 

[jeff9366]

As a tractor neophyte, you will receive more useful replies if you explain your land and what your plan is, then leave the thread open for discussion, while guiding discussion with questions.

 

[Egon]

Check out tool bar rippers on the internet.

 

[Spike56]

As a tractor neophyte, you will receive more useful replies if you explain your land and what your plan is, then leave the thread open for discussion, while guiding discussion with questions.

Thanks Jeff,
The WunderBar looks close to what I would like. The truth is, I do not even know just yet what I can do with tool bar mounted tools. The immediate job I have in mind is a small one. There are places around the yard / barn where all I want to do is bust up the soil so I can dig it out by hand. I say bust up, really just make some cuts to loosen the hard crusty soil.

I may have located a used tool bar. I was not able to measure the bar size. This is a solid bar (old one) where the bar is "not" in a diamond configuration...the flat sides are parallel to the ground. This would probably be my best option since a new one is very expensive for what I would likely use it for. Been poking around on the Web to see what tools are available...

Regards, Jeff

 

[jeff9366]

The immediate job I have in mind is a small one. There are places around the yard / barn where all I want to do is bust up the soil so I can dig it out by hand. I say bust up, really just make some cuts to loosen the hard crusty soil.

Consider a Middlebuster.

VIDEO: YouTube

 

[Spike56]

Consider a Middlebuster.

VIDEO: YouTube

Hi Jeff,

Yes I have looked at a middle buster, but when / if I think about using something in my pasture to slightly break up the top crust, or in my hayfield to do the same, it looks to aggressive for that ? At least it appears to me (a newbie) that a middle buster would perhaps do damage to pasture / hayfield grass ? So, I looked at a sub-soiler thinking I could use for both jobs ? But the subsoilers (single shank) rated for my size tractor were (IMHO) a little pricey, thus, I started to think about a tool bar where I could replace the implement for the task. Maybe middle buster / single plow, maybe to coulters, maybe a single rippler type....ect.
Really, I am not in dire need for anything. Just looking for options that allow versatility without having numerous implements. Maybe not possible ?

Regards, Jeff

 

[jjp8182]

there's also Tilmor: Tilmor - A Marketplace for Small Growers and agrisupply: Agri Supply has farm supplies, tractor implements & mower parts. ...the latter having a wide selection of tines and sweeps.

However, if you're attempting to break up ground that's either been packed or hasn't been worked before a scarifier (e.g. Land Shark Compact Tractor 3 point Scarifier Bar Ripper) or the rippers on a box blade ...or even a chisel plow may be more suitable depending on the type of soil/ground you're attempting to work.

Not saying a toolbar with S or C tines (with appropriate sweeps) wouldn't work (it may in most cases), but it may not be as productive as implements intended to work in uncultivated soils - particularly when comes to dried out clays, or ground that's been highly compacted by heavy traffic.

 

[Spike56]

there's also Tilmor: Tilmor - A Marketplace for Small Growers and agrisupply: Agri Supply has farm supplies, tractor implements & mower parts. ...the latter having a wide selection of tines and sweeps.

However, if you're attempting to break up ground that's either been packed or hasn't been worked before a scarifier (e.g. Land Shark Compact Tractor 3 point Scarifier Bar Ripper) or the rippers on a box blade ...or even a chisel plow may be more suitable depending on the type of soil/ground you're attempting to work.

Not saying a toolbar with S or C tines (with appropriate sweeps) wouldn't work (it may in most cases), but it may not be as productive as implements intended to work in uncultivated soils - particularly when comes to dried out clays, or ground that's been highly compacted by heavy traffic.

Yes, I agree. So again, just trying to get opinions from wise farm boys.
I do have a box blade (frontier model), but lowering the rippers all the way down - not quite enough depth for the deeper ripping. Will check the links you sent. Thanks !

 

[Egon]

Just a reminder that at 55 hp. You will not be pulling many ripper’s or shanks with shovels very deep. It may also require multiple passes. Just straight rippers should be all you need.

A tool bar with rippers and interchange middle buster may require a few modifications. Putting a plow on would be impracticable due to the plow geometry. Your tractor should handle three to four bottoms on a plow.

Keep in mind that the toolbar can be fitted with different types of fittings for trailers or other pulling.

 

[Spike56]

Just a reminder that at 55 hp. You will not be pulling many ripper’s or shanks with shovels very deep. It may also require multiple passes. Just straight rippers should be all you need.

A tool bar with rippers and interchange middle buster may require a few modifications. Putting a plow on would be impracticable due to the plow geometry. Your tractor should handle three to four bottoms on a plow.

Keep in mind that the toolbar can be fitted with different types of fittings for trailers or other pulling.

Yes, thanks. I had a 5 shank renovator at one time. NO WAY could use all 5 shanks. Maybe 3 IF AND ONLY IF the ground moisture was JUST perfect - which here is about 1 day per year. Even then, there is some nasty red clay under the top soil and the renovator shank would pull up a huge clod. Neighbors with looser soil / sand kept borrowing it, which I don't mind except I since I wasn't using much was a waste for me. So, sold it. Parts of my property are deep sand, others red clay, others mixed....
Again thanks for the reply.... First will check out the used tool bar and see $ of that.

 

[CoyPatton]

Yes, I agree. So again, just trying to get opinions from wise farm boys.
I do have a box blade (frontier model), but lowering the rippers all the way down - not quite enough depth for the deeper ripping. Will check the links you sent. Thanks !

Box-blade scarifiers are intended to break the surface up at a level where the box blade can scrape.
I have no ideal how deep you want to break the soil up, but if only a bit deeper than the scarifiers go, make your top link as short as possible. This will change the angles of the scarifiers as well as the box and could provide a couple of more inches of depth.
If you are want 6”+ of breakup then while it will take lots of runs, get a subsoiler. Do not get one rated for a small SCUT or CUT but spend the money for one rated for your larger tractor. They usually have a shear pin system built into them to protect both your tractor and the implement.
Do a search and you will find plenty of instances where someone bought a 30hp rated subsoiler and used on a utility tractor and bent the subsoiler (and did not get the job accomplished).

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

A number of years ago, I built a homemade 3pt "frame" 5' wide and about 3' long.. It would accommodate bolt on chisel shanks, row hiller wheels, cultivator shanks, thatch rake times..

Kind of a do-it-all set up, just add, subtract dirt engagement accessories.. Frankly at the time this was the best, easiest solution to many needs as there were not the variety of implements available.. And regardless of how expensive general and specialty attachments are now, the thing available then was out of this world expensive..

This is one of the frames I made and one way it was set up..

 

[Spike56]

Looks great !

 

[jeff9366]

I do have a box blade (frontier model), but lowering the rippers all the way down - not quite enough depth for the deeper ripping.

Tool Bar attachments that I am familiar with are for cultivating, which is tertiary cultivation of soil in good tilth.

Your objectives are ground breaking which requires more robust implement construction than any tool bar attachment clamps I am familiar with can withstand. Tool bar clamps are designed to be intentional failure points when heavy stress is applied.

 

[Spike56]

Jeff,
You are probably correct in your judgement here, but I cannot justify even a single shank sub-soiler rated for > 50HP. The units I have seen are about $600 for (say a King Kutter model). Interestingly, the "used one" locally that I am looking at has a single blade plow, and since it is "old" is a solid bar as opposed to tube steel.
Based on inputs from you and others, I have about given up - except if this used one is cheap enough. If so, I would consider mounting flat steel and give that a try ? Maybe.

 

[Egon]

A number of years ago, I built a homemade 3pt "frame" 5' wide and about 3' long.. It would accommodate bolt on chisel shanks, row hiller wheels, cultivator shanks, thatch rake times..

Kind of a do-it-all set up, just add, subtract dirt engagement accessories.. Frankly at the time this was the best, easiest solution to many needs as there were not the variety of implements available.. And regardless of how expensive general and specialty attachments are now, the thing available then was out of this world expensive..

This is one of the frames I made and one way it was set up..

View attachment 675349

Very nice tool bar. Straight forward and simple. Easy to weld on different implement attach points.

A tool bar is not that complicated. Like the one shown an easy build with the right materials and very adaptable for many uses. There will be numerous uses it can be used for.

 

[RalphVa]

Agri Supply has what they call a Keulavator. They offer various tools to go onto it. I had an old JD M tool bar and bought some of their stuff to go onto it.

Ralph