New X310 Now Won't Start

[Milo]

Darn, I never even got to use it yet. It only has 1 1/2 hours on it, the wife mowed once with it. She said it backfired once in a while and once stopped running, but it started back up and she was able to finish. When I just started it it ran rough for a couple seconds (like the choke was left on but it wasn't) then backfired a couple times and quit. Now the starter turns if over but no fire whatsoever. I pulled the plugs and they were wet with gas so I dried them off and left them out for 1/2 hour. I checked my jumper to the seat switch and mower back up switch and they are nice and tight but I removed them and re-connected the seat switch just in case. The brake switch and it's plug appear fine and the peddle depresses the button all the way when pressed.

So I put the plugs back in and tried again. Nothing, the starter spins the engine but it won't fire at all. I then went and bought new plugs which didn't make any difference. It seems to be getting gas but no spark at all. I checked every wire and plug I could and they are all tight. Called the dealer but they close Saturday afternoon. Any suggestions?

 

[KENSFM]

I assume you checked the gas tank to be sure you are not out of gas.
Ken

 

[Milo]

LOL, good question but yeah. It was a bit under 1/2 full so I filled it before even starting it. The choke and throttle cables operate the carburetor levers freely and the plugs get wet with gas so I'm thinking it's missing spark. Of the safety switches I wonder if there is one which will allow the starter to crank the engine but not allow ignition? The brake interlock prevents the starter from engaging so it's probably not it. The seat switch might however it won't start with the seat switch connected or bypassed with a jumper. Fuses are OK. Oil level is good (in case it has a low oil level sensor). I'll call the dealer Monday.

 

[Voyager6]

First, you are in warranty and if the dealer is nearby, you need to let them fix it. You could easily void your warranty.

Since you said the plugs were fuel fouled, I am assuming this is not a fuel cutoff solenoid issue.

The proper way to test is to pull the plugs, turn over the engine while grounding a plug against the block and see if you can visually see spark. Or use a spark tester. Check both plug wires.

If only one plug wire is dead, you have a bad coil, plug wire or a short in the grounding wire under the shroud between the two coils (unlikely).

If both are dead, it can be a bad interlock module, bad input to the interlock module, or the coil grounding wire is shorted.

If both plug wires are dead, disconnect the black coil grounding wire where it goes into the engine (near voltage regulator on right rear side of engine as viewed from driving position). There is a little single male/female connector just before it enters the shroud. In theory you could start the engine if something further up the chain is bad, but only the fuel cutoff solenoid could stop the motor at that point and I don't recommend it.

If you open the coil grounding wire, remove both plugs to prevent starting and turn ignition to start position. You should see spark. If you don't see spark, the problem is inside the engine. Sheared flywheel key is a possibility as well as coil or wire issues. Flywheel key might explain backfiring as ignition timing would vary after the key breaks. If flywheel slips you likely will see spark as the wheel would likely still rotate. The timing could be so bad it won't hit at all, but you would see spark as the magnets in the flywheel would trigger an out of time spark.

If not in the engine, it could be any number of switches, wires in the harness or the (likely) interlock module. Both the coil ground and the fuel cutoff solenoid wire originate from the interlock module. It needs a schematic to troubleshoot. Let the dealer do it.

One more bit: If not caused by timing, backfiring can be caused by a hot engine running lean. Often an intake air leak. This wouldn't have an affect on spark unless the backfire broke the flywheel key.

 

[Milo]

Thanks Voyager6. The dealer is maybe 60 miles away but I think I'll just let them deal with it. Hopefully they can quickly get to it, diagnose the problem, and repair it.

 

[jinman]

Thanks Voyager6. The dealer is maybe 60 miles away but I think I'll just let them deal with it. Hopefully they can quickly get to it, diagnose the problem, and repair it.

That's the way it is with JD dealers. Unfortunately, equipment dealers are not thick as flies like car dealers. It's always a pain to take back a new piece of equipment. We expect to buy something new and have many trouble-free hours of service. It's a blow to our confidence when that new equipment is unreliable. It can happen on any brand, but that still doesn't help when you have to lug it back to the dealer. It surely affects your faith in your equipment.

 

[BBO]

If something broke after only 1.5 hours I would come home with another mower.

Call them asap about what has happened and tell them you want another one.

 

[Milo]

If something broke after only 1.5 hours I would come home with another mower.

Call them asap about what has happened and tell them you want another one.

I know what you're saying and if it's something serious like a cracked engine block I will. Not sure it'd be reasonable to demand a new tractor because something like a safety switch malfunctioned. At this point who knows what's keeping it from starting, but I'll find out and will post back when I do.

 

[Teddy1973]

Milo, I know you mentioned in another thread that you had disabled the safety engine cutoff for the seat, I wonder if whatever you did came undone and that is the cause of your problem. Check under the seat and see if the jumper wire you installed came loose or something like that. I'll bet it's something simple like that that is causing the problem.

 

[BBO]

It only has 1 1/2 hours on it, the wife mowed once with it. She said it backfired once in a while and once stopped running, but it started back up and she was able to finish. When I just started it it ran rough for a couple seconds (like the choke was left on but it wasn't) then backfired a couple times and quit.

Put the seat switch back the way it was before returning it, They might want to void the warranty if this turns out to be related...

 

[Milo]

Re: New X310 Now Won't Start. Update, Problem Solved

Problem found. Took it to the dealer and the service person tried starting it only it wouldn't turn over. When he pulled the second spark plug gasoline poured out. (When I'd pulled them no gas came out at all the plugs were just wet) He felt it was the float valve in the carburetor saying he'd seen one before that had a bit of plastic in it not allowing it to seat and close. I suggested it could be the float itself. He said he was ordering a new one (I assumed float valve). Two days later it was ready. He had to take a carburetor off another new tractor because Deere didn't have any of these carburetors in stock and didn't know when they would have them. Anyway it started right up and runs perfectly. When he looked at the removed carburetor he said there was a piece in the casting which the float was sometimes contacting keeping it from raising up and shutting off. I was a little disappointed he didn't change the oil and filter saying the level was fine and he didn't smell gasoline in it. I think I can smell some so I'm changing it myself just to be sure, so the first oil change will be at 2 hours instead of the 8 in the service schedule.
I'm just glad he knew what he was doing and found the problem right away while I was there. I would have bet that it was one of the safety switches. Anyway I'll change the oil now then put my "safety defeat switch jumpers" back in. When I'm mowing I like to turn around and look behind when I'm backing up, not look down on the dash and fumble with raising a switch.

 

[Teddy1973]

Glad your mystery has been solved Milo, these types of things can be very frustrating, especially when it's new! I agree with you on the safety switches too, I've changed mine and it makes the mower much easier to use.

 

[Milo]

Thanks Teddy. Now it's sorted out I'm pleased how it operates, both the effortless steering and how smooth and quiet the hydrostatic functions. The 42" deck cuts just fine with stock the 3 in 1 blades and the mulch plug on.

 

[JDTank]

I know you already found the solution, but just for future reference.

Any time your spark plugs are wet, you are getting way too much fuel, and it is flooding. 9 times out of 10, this is a carburetor issue.

A word of advice from a small engine mechanic, your biggest enemy is bad fuel. Gasoline today is only good for about 60 days max. Ethanol breaks down very fast. When gas is allowed to sit in your fuel system, over the winter for example, it turns into something similar to varnish. It smells terrible, and plugs the holes in your jet.

I know this wasn't your fault, but just remember to always get as much fuel out of your machine as possible before it will sit for long periods of time. Carburetors have a drain screw on the bowl, undo that screw and empty the bowl of all fuel before you store the machine for winter. This screw is usually off to one side of the bowl on a 45 degree angle. The screw in the center of the bottom of the hole will remove the bowl completely from the carburetor body.

Unfortunately, this is a common issue I see at the shop I work at. Dealerships put riding mowers out for display in 2012, let people run it around a bit, and when it finally sells in mid 2013, it has fuel that is 18 months old in it. I know your issue was a casting flaw, but stale fuel from dealer floor models is always an issue.

 

[Milo]

Thanks, JD. I mistakenly assumed after cranking and no fire, but wet plugs, it was a no spark issue. I know now.

Yeah I'm familiar with our poor excuse for gasoline. I use straight gasoline when I can but the only place to buy it is 30 miles the wrong way. But my 5 gallon cans always get StaBil added when they're filled, and an extra dose at the end of the season for storage. Float bowls get purged every Spring and Fall in everything with a carburetor because that's where water can accumulate. Conveniently the carburetors on all the ATV's, motorcycles, etc have drain valves.