Little Red Tractor
Gold Member
I had that issue. I'm much more careful about raising the tiller at the end of the rows now.
New Woods tiller problem.....
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Dmacleo
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2020
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- 1,867
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- Etna, Maine
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- 2010 MF GC2400 Owner, 2012 MF1532 User
due to way pats hitches act like a 3.5" extension of the lift bars I gain a lot of lift but due to extra length my angle of attacks (as far as I can tell with shields on) very very close to org no hitch specs.
normal titan quick hitch 4.5" longer yet maintains same plane as end of lift bars so no extra height, angle really good then.
but I like the extra lift height.
but....I do my best to make it habit to shut pto off as soon as tines start to clear the dirt.
why risk it? also depending on tilling path no sense leaving it running 2+ minutes up in air
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
There's what I wrote, as for #17, I still think that on a HD tiller two bolts should be used...
As for #21, I have not seen a tiller that only used 1 bolt per tine, and I still have never even heard of a HD tiller using 1 bolt, what part of that don't you understand?? NOW I see, some company's have cheapened their design down to a single bolt, that caused this thread to begin with!
As for my own logic, where did you come up with that?? You making stuff up now? I stated there are tillers made for tractors with over 200 pto HP to run them, have you ever seen one??? IF you ever do, you will see how they are built to take that kind of HP.
My HD tiller, built to take 100hp has two bolts, as does my HD tiller that's made to take 65hp. I believe another one of my HD tillers is made to take about 40hp, I don't remember for sure. All of them have drive line slip clutches.
You still haven't told me all about YOUR HD tiller that you learned your vast tiller knowledge from! I don't think you ever ran one let alone actually own one. My tiller knowledge comes from my commercial tilling business that I started in 1983, so I have learned a few things along the way...
SO, I'm done answering you, as once a poster starts making stuff up, they are too far gone to believe anything they have to say. So, fire away and enjoy yourself. lol
SR
LD1
Epic Contributor
I know exactly what you wrote. You made false statements and I called you out on it and now you are going on the defensive.
Clearly the OP's tiller doesn't meet your definition of a HD tiller. Fair enough. It still only has one bolt per tine, and it wasnt assembled wrong by the dealer or something else wrong with the way the tines are mounted as you claim.
Im not making anything up and dont know what your beef with me is. This is supposed to be educational. You clearly admitted you havent seen tillers with single bolt tines. I have seen, operated, and worked on several. I wouldnt call them inferior in any way. Just a different design in how to support and retain a tine is all. There are good and bad of both types. Most of the single-bolt tines do NOT rely on the bolt to support the tine entirely as 2-bolt tines are often attached.
Here is an example of a bobcat tiller made for a skidloader that has single bolt tines
Older yanmars....(while not exactly heavy duty tillers) have a bit different approach to single bolt. There is a welded pocket the tine inserts into and the bolt simply retains the tine in the pocket
JGRE
New member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2024
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- 2
- Tractor
- KUBOTA B2601
Ive got this exact issue now. It's been over two years since your post. Have you experienced additional problems or were you able to simply.tighten the bolt?
Sir after you get it all worked out I think you will really enjoy it. I use mine all the time. Have different things in the truck patch coming in all time. I’ve got a big old Massey and I chisel plow my ground before I till, but that’s only because I have the time and equipment. Good luck
loulblades
Gold Member
I have used my Woods tiller quite a bit over the years (our garden, daughter's garden, neighbor's garden).
My process for tilling is to throttle down at start of a row, put tiller down and engage when it comes in contact with the ground and throttle up. I set the drop rate on slow so I am not in a big rush. I use my legs on the steering wheel to keep the tractor straight and have my right hand on the 3pt lever and left on the pto lever. At the end of the row I pull back on the pto and lift at close to the same time.
Works for me.
My process for tilling is to throttle down at start of a row, put tiller down and engage when it comes in contact with the ground and throttle up. I set the drop rate on slow so I am not in a big rush. I use my legs on the steering wheel to keep the tractor straight and have my right hand on the 3pt lever and left on the pto lever. At the end of the row I pull back on the pto and lift at close to the same time.
Works for me.
lman
Veteran Member
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- Oct 3, 2009
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- Indiana
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- New Holland 3040, New Holland 1530, Oliver 1850
I've been using my Woods tiller for 25 years. I noticed when I began using it that the universal joints don't like it when you raise it all the way up and it's engaged. It makes a lot of noise, so if it's engaged I raise it just enough to clear the ground.
loulblades
Gold Member
Yes I agree that the ujoints don't like being raised all the way up before disengaging.
