New tractor mods

[dstig1]

I added a 3rd function to my new tractor. I did it before on my L3130, so I knew what needed to be done, but the new L5240 has a different setup for the hydraulics that made it a bit harder to do. That mostly just meant more expense in the hydraulic lines/fittings. Such is life.


Here are the implement connections. I used 3/8" steel and painted to match, using the same point Kubota does for the factory 3rd function. Also the same basic place it was on my last one. Bulkhead hydraulic fittings attach it to the plate.





I made the brackets to hold the hoses to the existing clamp points on the arm. The brackets come welded on from the factory - I didn't do that. I bent and painted the clamp to fit from 1/8" x 1.25 steel. This shows those and the hose runs. The pic above shows it a bit too.



And buried back in there (above) is the diverter valve. I screwed it to the FEL upright rather than clamping it onto the arm. That was largely due to a suggestion from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics (where I got the diverter and joystick switch), plus it was almost necessary to put it there due to the differences I noted above.

That is the hydraulic side.

 

[dstig1]

Here is the electircal/control side.

I tapped into the cigarette outlet in the right hand fender trim area. Here you can see it all torn apart for wiring. I used a relay (black cube) that I stuck to the fender with foam tape to drive the diverter so the joystick microswitch doesn't get burned out quick. Joystick drives the relay which drives the valve. i also added a diode at the diverter to help with the backrush current or whatever it is called when the solenoid opens (not shown).



Here is the master switch (red rocker, just below the yellow PTO knob) for the 3rd function, so you can switch it off if desired.



And Then the FEL joystick itself. There is a problem in that the bushing that comes with the joystick needs to be drilled out to fit, but the rod is 14mm - bigger than 1/2" and finding that drill bit was hard and expensive. Anything above 1/2" gets spendy, especially for one lousy hole. I also decided that the handle would sit too high as -is, so I made a new one out of 1/2" rod, so I could bore the bushing to fit and lower the height. Here that is. Call it my short throw shifter, I guess I dropped it about 3" vs the old one (with the rubber knob, held up to compare).







You can see the diverter valve in the background on the last pic

 

[dstig1]

Then what brand new bucket isn't complete without some welding on it?

I added 2 chain hooks and a receiver. I used a piec of 1/4" 4x4 angle with one leg cut down to about 1.25" to get a nice flat reinforcement to hold everything in position. This is the heavy duty bucket, so it probably didn't need reinforcing all that much, but it helped these sit better. I am still no better than a so-so weldor, so no close-ups will be shown





I also put a radio in, but am waiting for the harness to show up so I can power it up. Probably tomorrow.



That's all. Now it's time to use it to build the new house...

 

[creekbend]

Well done.:thumbsup:

 

[dstig1]

The radio harness came in, so I got that powered up and am rockin' the cab now!!!:cool2:



And the wheel spinner came in from Coleman equipment. Now my life, err, tractor is complete.



That should basically do it for the new tractor. Now time to start using it...

 

[rshrimp]

Very Nice Work! I'm GREEN .... er ... a....Orange with envy!
Great thinking on the new control stick!

 

[paulwestski]

Distig 1

Good looking professional work. It's very satisfying to look at a project once its complete, I know that's why I tinker so much.
Did you add a third function diverter or true third function?

If you added true third function, I'm curious did you plumb the 3rd function valve before or after the loader valve ?

I was considering installing a home brew true third function.
My parts list cost ended up being $500.00
The Kubota kit installed was $400.00 more installed.
I went with factory kit. It's a very nice kit lots of preformed hard steel lines.

Again great job on the mods.

 

[flusher]

Here's a quick upgrade I added to my 2008 Mahindra 5525.



Attached a piece of expanded metal screen to the ROPS via hose clamps. Keeps any stuff thrown up by my mowers from whacking me in the back of my head.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks, guys.

Paul - I put in a diverter. I have read complaints here about the Kubota 3rd function that has had some problems with durability, so I stayed away from it. I put a diverter on my previous tractor, so I knew what needed to be done, just needed to get the right parts, at a better price than last time, which I did. I was quite satisfied with how the diverter worked last time around, so I just did it all again. It was a little harder on the L40 than the L30, but nothing too major.

Now just waiting for the Top and Tilt to come in...hopefully soon...

 

[Kernopelli]

Here's a quick upgrade I added to my 2008 Mahindra 5525.

View attachment 321537View attachment 321538

Attached a piece of expanded metal screen to the ROPS via hose clamps. Keeps any stuff thrown up by my mowers from whacking me in the back of my head.

This is an incredibly good addition and very under rated/ not understood how important this is. A coworker of mine was killed a few years ago while brush hogging. When he backed into a corner of the field, he mowed over a downed fence post and a fence staple became a fatal projectile.....such a simple thing left a wife and young daughters without a husband and beloved father.

 

[paulwestski]

Thanks, guys.

Paul - I put in a diverter. I have read complaints here about the Kubota 3rd function that has had some problems with durability, so I stayed away from it. I put a diverter on my previous tractor, so I knew what needed to be done, just needed to get the right parts, at a better price than last time, which I did. I was quite satisfied with how the diverter worked last time around, so I just did it all again. It was a little harder on the L40 than the L30, but nothing too major.

Now just waiting for the Top and Tilt to come in...hopefully soon...

Can you please do me a favor and measure the length of the hoses from the diverter to the front of the loader boom?
And perhaps take a couple of photos of the diverter hose to the loader valve quick disconnects.

It looks like the only new hoses that you needed would be diverter to front of loader boom and diverter to loader valve quick disconnects.

Thanks
Paul

 

[dstig1]

They were about 6', but the exact measurement won't really help you. Every install like this is a bit unique. The way I did this was the only good way to ensure the correct length hoses, IMHO. I had them crimp the one end on (end by the operator station) and then give me the other end and leave the hose long. Then I put it in place and measure and mark. In this case I also needed to mark the orientation of the other fitting as they were 90deg on both ends, so you need to get the phase right to avoid twist. Then bring then back for final cut and crimp. A bit of a pain, but worth it in the long run.

The way I set it up, I re-routed the hoses that connected the QD to the hard lines, so the former hard line connector was in the diverter (used an adapter fitting). Then I made new hoses for Diverter to hard lines, and for Diverter to the 3rd function QDs. not perfect, but seemed the best way to work it without spending a fortune. The QDs are attached to NPT fittings, and those are not the easiest to incorporate into plumbed lines with fixed connection points. That was why I left it the way I did.

 

[paulwestski]

They were about 6', but the exact measurement won't really help you. Every install like this is a bit unique. The way I did this was the only good way to ensure the correct length hoses, IMHO. I had them crimp the one end on (end by the operator station) and then give me the other end and leave the hose long. Then I put it in place and measure and mark. In this case I also needed to mark the orientation of the other fitting as they were 90deg on both ends, so you need to get the phase right to avoid twist. Then bring then back for final cut and crimp. A bit of a pain, but worth it in the long run.

The way I set it up, I re-routed the hoses that connected the QD to the hard lines, so the former hard line connector was in the diverter (used an adapter fitting). Then I made new hoses for Diverter to hard lines, and for Diverter to the 3rd function QDs. not perfect, but seemed the best way to work it without spending a fortune. The QDs are attached to NPT fittings, and those are not the easiest to incorporate into plumbed lines with fixed connection points. That was why I left it the way I did.

Thanks Dave
Paul

 

[Zebrafive]

Very professional looking job. Especially the way you phased the hoses.
Next time you need just one large or hard to find drill size, you might have a machine shop do the work for minimum cost. Verses buying a drill bit you may never use again.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks. Yeah, I considered bringing it into work and asking the guys in the shop to do it, but once I realized I wanted to lower the handle a bit, making it out of 1/2" rod seemed like the perfect solution for both issues...and it worked out quite good.

 

[Birdhunter1]

This is an incredibly good addition and very under rated/ not understood how important this is. A coworker of mine was killed a few years ago while brush hogging. When he backed into a corner of the field, he mowed over a downed fence post and a fence staple became a fatal projectile.....such a simple thing left a wife and young daughters without a husband and beloved father.

Would this have been Tom Q? I knew him too, tragic event that day.

 

[dstig1]

I used the receiver for the first time the other day and found it is quite a bit higher than I would like. I was using my biggest drop drawbar, which is 4", and I could not get it under the trailer hitch without raising the trailer way up. Even then I had to kind of force it under there. I had seen so many people do these bucket receivers on TBN, I wasn't expecting this issue that much. Any good suggestions? All I can think of is finding a much larger drop drawbar. I see eTrailer has them down to 12" drop. I could even just make one as this isn't a real critical item - only for moving trailers around the yard.

 

[bandaidmd]

Bend a bracket for your ball up 90 degrees so the top of the ball is staring at you while seated, then its easy to tip your bucket/ball all the way to ground level and still keep it visible.