New Toy, New Question

[Iplayfarmer]

I just got the parts and pieces to convert my Iseki TX1500 from a two point hitch to a three point hitch. It was fun to goof around this evening trying to figure out how to hook it all up, but now I'm ready for some help.

I don't know the correct terminology, but I'll do my best as I ask the questions. If anyone knows of some link to illustrated instructions on some web page, you'll be my hero (for a while).

1) How do I hook the two lift arms into the tractor? There are two holes in the frame that are the same diameter as the holes in the balls in the lift arms (about 7/8"), but it seems like I would need more stability than a pin through the single hole in the lift arm and a single hole in the frame would give. Do I put a pin of some sort through all four holes (i.e. through a lift arm, through the two holes in the frame, through the other lift arm)?

2) The 3 point hitch kit comes with some stabilizer links that I've seen hook from the lift arms to the frame of other tractors. I don't see where these would hook in on my tractor.

If I can figure these two things out, I think I'll have it made. I've got an old sickle-bar (sp?) type mower that I am eager to hook up and start clearing the noxious weeds from mine and my nieghboors' pastures.

 

[BadDog]

You're probably going to have to fabricate or purchase a small link to attach to your tractor. The link will look like a big version of replacement link in a bicycle chain, with snap-ring pins to hold it together. A welding shop can easiliy make a pair of these up for you for $30-40, if that much.

You probably need to drill some holes in the tractor frame to attach them directly, or attach some other chunk of metal to the frame to attach your stabilizer links to.

Attach some pics for better advice.

 

[MicroPilot]

Here is a link to a pic of the Lift Arms on my tractor. Maybe this will help you see how it could be done.

Century 3 PT detail

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Thanks for the pic, MicroPilot. That's what I was hoping for.

I went to the local farm store and just started looking for parts that might be helpful. I saw a draw pin that looked like it just might work. I bought a few, and bolted them into the frame of the tractor. I hooked everything up so it at least looks like most 3 point hitches I have seen. (see Picture)

I still haven't figured out how to hook up the stabilizer links. I don't even see how I could modify the tractor to make them work. The best I can see right now is to put something on the inside of the draw pin and hook the links to that. Take a look at the picture and tell me if you get some bright idea how to attach the stabilizer to the tractor.

How important are these stabilizer links anyway?

 

[KentT]

My old Kubota had simple "stay-chains" that hooked up to the same front mounting pins as the two lower hitch arms. Each had a turnbuckle that you used to tighten that chain, which pulled the hitch arm to the outside....

They are very important, because they keep the implement from swinging side to side...

 

[JoshJ]

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I still haven't figured out how to hook up the stabilizer links. I don't even see how I could modify the tractor to make them work. The best I can see right now is to put something on the inside of the draw pin and hook the links to that. Take a look at the picture and tell me if you get some bright idea how to attach the stabilizer to the tractor.

How important are these stabilizer links anyway? )</font>

You're gonna want something on there that keeps it from swaying side to side, and possibly digging into your tires. I think you are on to something already- hook a chain or something from the inside of one pin to the opposite arm. As long as you connect the arms by chaining/cable them together so that the chains cross each other, (no matter where/how the chaings are attached) it should keep it from swaying. Not the prettiest thing, but it should work.

 

[Soundguy]

My yanmar had 'D' rings under the axles to attach sway chains to. My NH tractors all have a lip with clevis attached for the same thing. the older ones all use a axle mounted bracket for use with solid sway bars.

If you use chain.. make sur ehte lift has full range of movement without binding... so measure that geometry out.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[Iplayfarmer]

You're right on the money about the sway chains. I could hardly pull the lift arms apart to hook into the 6 foot box blade that I bought yesterday, but once I got the blade hooked up and lifted it swayed around quite a bit. I just hooked it up to move the blade to it's "parking place" after I unloaded it, so no harm was done.

I've got a guy fabricating some "tabby do-dads" right now to hook the sway chains into. I'm probably just going to loop the tabby do-dads over the draw pins as was suggested.

 

[boomer4snow]

on my AC WD45 the factory didnt use sway chains, but they had a limiting block/rub bar for lack of a better term that fit over the draw bar. it would allow the inside of the lift arms to smack it and effectivle stop three point sway. it worked good. just expect to paint twice a year. it might give you ideas.

 

[Jagmandave]

My Yanmar didn't have any sway chains when I got it and when making a turn pulling the brush hog it got to bouncing pretty high. Here's how I remedied the problem........ The sway chains with turnbuckles came from Hoye.........oh, and I made the pivots that slip over the pins from some flat 3/8 " stock