New Terramite Forum

Southern Comfort · Sep 8, 2012

If he didn't run it I would just drain and replenish with 15-40W. If he did operate the hoe, I would drain, replenish with 15-40W and operate the hoe for a short period. After that I would drain, replace the filter and refill with fresh 15-40W oil. You can be glad he didn't put in hydraulic fluid. Don't kill your brother, sounds like he works cheap and it's hard to find free labor.

Pacifictimes · Sep 12, 2012

So now I have an outrigger cylinder leaking, I spin the part that should push the wire out but it does not. Do I need to pound the pin in further? Also my brother (trying to help) put a bottle of 90 w gear oil in my hydralic tank, over 40 hours have been put on it now, what do I need to do?

Southern Comfort · Sep 13, 2012

When you push in the clip you should be able to use a spanner wrench and spin off the gland end plate. A small amount of gear oil shouldn't hurt the seals. I would drain and refill with 15-W40.

arcamm · Oct 9, 2012

Pacifictimes said:
So now I have an outrigger cylinder leaking, I spin the part that should push the wire out but it does not. Do I need to pound the pin in further? Also my brother (trying to help) put a bottle of 90 w gear oil in my hydralic tank, over 40 hours have been put on it now, what do I need to do?

I think I had the same problem on my T1. The gland was stuck and we had to heat it to fee it up. After we did, the gland would turn but the wire did not move. When the wire is new, there is a 90 degree bend on one end. You incert this 90 (just over an eighth of an inch long) through the hole in the cylinder and into a hole in the gland. As you turn the gland, it pulls the wire into the cylinder. When you take it apart, twisting the gland should spit it back out unless that 90 shers off. Just like mine did. What we had to do was the following; Take a small pin punch and pry the end of the wire up enough past the surface of the cylinder to grab it with a pair of diagonal cutters or end cutters. If you can get a grip on it, have someone turn the gland in the direction the wire is suppose to come out and kind of pry the wire in that direction. At first you will only move a very small amount at a time. Don't cut through the wire. As it comes out, it will get easier. When I did mine, we had to heat the cylinder to move the gland. If yours turns freely you won't have to worry about that.

arcamm · Oct 9, 2012

What do you call that wire anyway? I'm rebuilding the cylinders on my T1 and I've used all of the new ones I had, but still need 4 more. The new ones were copper coated. I'd like to avoid any of them getting stuck again. The shop I got some seals from said they just bust the flux off of an eighth inch welding rod. I was wondering if stainless steel wire would be better.

TravisWV · Oct 10, 2012

arcamm said:
What do you call that wire anyway? I'm rebuilding the cylinders on my T1 and I've used all of the new ones I had, but still need 4 more. The new ones were copper coated. I'd like to avoid any of them getting stuck again. The shop I got some seals from said they just bust the flux off of an eighth inch welding rod. I was wondering if stainless steel wire would be better.

Stainless steel wouldn't bend to make the circle. It's braising wire that is used in the cylinders.