New Road Grader Trail Run Today

[brandoro]

I have started looking at hydraulic top links for that very reason.
What did you get? I am thinking your 3030 must be pretty similar to my L3010

Hydraulic Top & Tilt Kits - Kubota

I haven't seen it yet since I am away working, making money so I can buy more attachments but the above link is what I should be getting. The first one the dealer found was too long even when retracted, this one looks like it should work.
One of my rear remotes has a float postion, could be handy with the top link.

 

[Reg]

One POSSIBLE consequence of a chain top link is what MtnViewRanch alluded to, i.e. the front digs in and it flips forwards.
Which COULD "Spoil your whole day".

I thought they had slots for the top link pin ?
If not I would try to either cut some or figure a way to add a flex link to the top link for SOME slack, but some defense from a forward flip.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I hear what you are saying. How about a pipe sliding in another pipe that
would bottom out. Something like that.
It would take an awful lot to flip it though. Once it goes past about 40 degrees the blade angle becomes negative and I think the chain will catch
it again well before it tips up to 90 degrees but I would have to check that.
Still it is a potential problem and calls for a rethink.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Get the hydraulic top link and all will be well. Just as Steve mentioned about how much he adjusts his. You too might be surprised at how much you will use it. My feeling is that you would end up with a better job, but I very well may be wrong, only you have your conditions to work with.

If you are happy with your results and don't feel that it can get any better, then there is no reason to change. :thumbsup:

 

[Gordon Gould]

It is hard to argue with that last point.
I was already thinking hydraulic top link as a future enhancement.
Maybe sooner is better than later.

 

[Reg]

I hear what you are saying. How about a pipe sliding in another pipe that
would bottom out. Something like that.
It would take an awful lot to flip it though. Once it goes past about 40 degrees the blade angle becomes negative and I think the chain will catch
it again well before it tips up to 90 degrees but I would have to check that.
Still it is a potential problem and calls for a rethink.

I'm not saying that the EXTREME is likely, or that we will probably read about you as just another careless statistic.
Sure, if it pivots up onto the skid tips the front blade should quickly dump what it is carrying and produce that UGLY washboard effect that we see on county roads when local employees think that chatter is normal so they keep going too fast (-:
The skids COULD dig in, but I think that would take some wrong combination of them finding a hollow at exactly the wrong spot... and you not stopping quickly enough.
It happens with logs if carried too low, not quite the same, but similar.

That fact that you have been able to dump and run probably indicates that there is a good line between your lift arm pivot at the front and rear, i.e. the geometry is providing just a little bit of lift to the front of the grader.

I would be looking to cut slots for the top link pin to float in, similar to those found on other implements that are intended to have some ground following.
Option B) some sort of link to swing and allow maybe 3 or 4 inches of play.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Reg
If I sounded to defensive or arguementive I apologize, I did not mean to at all.
I was just thinking out loud and on the fly which is not a good thing for me
to do.
I realize that you are trying to help me out here. I appreciate that very much.
I have a lot to learn and this forum helps a hole lot.
Anyway, the ideas you presented of a slot or link sound very good to me
and fairly easy to impliment also.
I only have a couple hours experience with the thing - all with the chain
top link. When it stops raining I am going to see how it acts with a normal
top link and try to get a feel for the adjustments and its effects.
Right now a link / slot or a hydraulic cylinder are on the list of possible changes that I could make.
Thanks again.

 

[jimmysisson]

I'll add "nice work" to the others. Do you find the "tailgate" has enough weight to spread the gravel the way you want?
You could slide a short length of 2 or 3" pipe over the chain before you hook up, that would keep it from collapsing entirely, if you're concerned the whole rig might flip forward on you. Leave a few inches of slack.
Jim

 

[Gordon Gould]

Most of the time the material is pretty much leveled off by the time it gets
to the tail gate if it is just gravel. If there is leaves and sod mixed in so
there are clumps they will roll around in front of the tail gate and finally
go under. It works pretty well. I do not think a little more weight would
hurt anything. It would probably make it better. Especially if there is
a wheel rut to fill. It is slow to move material across the road. I think my
blade is better for that.
Yesterday I did a section that was real hard packed sta-matt. Some spots
would take 3 or 4 passes with my 6' blade to barely scratch the surface. I never worried about it because it always stayed in good shape. Anyway,
I used my new grader with a short top link so all the weight was on the
front blade and had a nice loose gravel mix after two passes. I then
went back to the chain top link to finish it off. It came out better
than I've ever had it in ten years.

 

[Gordon Gould]

An additional thought - I haven't tried running it yet with the tailgate
latched. That would definately spread stuff better. But it might accumulate
to fast ??
By this time next year I will know more :laughing: