New MF1220 owner...a few questions

[davesisk]

Hi Folks:

I just got my hands on a 1993 MF1220 HST w/1242 FEL. It's got 305 hours on it...should be barely broken-in for a mini-diesel, eh? The hauler dropped it off today, and my daughter and I drove it around the neighborhood /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif.

Everything seems to be in pretty good shape. There's a little surface rust in a few spots and the paint is a little faded...I'm not too concerned about either of those, although this would indicate to me that it's spent much of it's life sitting outside rather than in a shed. Two things that do need fixing, however.

1) The fuel guage doesn't seem to work. Anyone know what's the most likely piece that has failed here? I'd assume there's some fuel level sensor that plugs into the tank and some wires that go to the gauge. Is the most likely culprit the guage itself, the sensor, or the wiring in between? If anyone has any insight, I'd appreciate it. I'd imagine the parts aren't very expensive (although I could be wrong!)

2) The 3pt hitch and loader hydraulics stumble on the way up. I've seen the other post about this, and I'm hoping the hydraulic filter is partially clogged and the stumble is from the filter's relief valve opening and closing. I'll likely take it to the dealer about 30 miles away within the next couple weeks and get them to replace all the fluids and filters and look for any issues, etc. I eventually would like to do all this myself, but paying the dealer to do it the first time might not be a bad idea. Do you agree?

Those two things out of the way, it starts right up, runs very smooth, is considerably quieter than the Power-trac I used to have, all the lights work, I don't see any evidence on the ROPS of it ever having been flipped, and it sure feels like it would pull a mountain without stumbling. It's shorter than the Power-trac I used to have, but taller and quite a bit heavier (about 2100 lbs w/ the FEL, according to the manual). I had to dig something today, so I moved a small pile of dirt left from where I dug a ditch with the PT last year (the guy who mows the neighborhood's common property always complained about the 5 seconds it takes him to adjust his mower height at that spot /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif) It seems to dig quite well...I guess 2000 lbs is indeed a "magic number" (the PT only weighed about 1200 lbs or so, so pushing into a pile resulted in wheel-spin unless you wiggled it side-to-side using the articulated steering).

Anyway, I'm really looking forward to getting to know this machine really well...both mechanically and operationally. I knew my old PT inside and out (not a traditional CUT), so this guy is a little bit of a different beast. Should be a fun journey! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Regards,
Dave

 

[Nasty135]

Dave, Congrats on the tractor purchase, On the fuel gauge check the ground on the lead to the tank. If you have a volt ohm meter you can pull the float sensor and see if it is functional with the ohm meter by moving the float up and down to see if you get increasing & decreasing resistance as you move it. If it is good, look at the wiring if wiring is good its probably the gauge.

On the hydro stumble, Before I would go to the dealer, Just for your own peace of mind I would change fluid and filter myself ,and if that didn't do it , I would consult the dealer for advice before I hand it over to them for a what could be an exspensive repair /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Could be as simple as a fluid and filter change /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Syncro]

I have a 1240, next size up in that series, and really like it. You're right about a quiet engine, I think these tractors are a lot quieter than other brands. I also agree that a filter change and fluid check might be the best first thing to do. A service manual would sure be helpful. You'll have a lot of fun with that tractor.

 

[davesisk]

OK, might as well dig into doing the fluid changes myself. Just called the local dealer and they said it would run about $300 to change the fluids and filters (one filter is apparently $80...ouch!) I'm looking for the filter part numbers, but they don't seem to be in the operator instruction book. Does the service manual have these part numbers? I recall seeing a thread about mail-order manuals...I'll look for that and order the service manual.

My father-in-law worked for auto parts stores most of his life, and he says if I can get the MF part#, he should be able to identify WIX filters that are the equivalents and less than half the cost of the MF-branded filters (which are probably OEM'd from WIX or one of the other major filter mfgs anyway).

I checked the hydro fluid this morning...looks like it's right between the low and high mark. The hydro drive didn't stumble at all...just raising the loader or 3PH. I emailed the previous owner, and he says that's normal and it doesn't do it with any weight on either. Not sure I believe that...we'll see.

The fuel is magically working this morning. The previous owner said tap it a few times because it gets stuck (although it started working without any tapping). OK. I'd rather actually fix whatever the problem is, even if that means replacing the fuel guage. I'll check the wiring first as you kind folks suggested.

Thx,
Dave

 

[JerryG]

Dave,
I would check all of your lines. You may have a leak that is letting air into the system.

 

[scott_vt]

Dave,
Go to your local NAPA dealer, they will have all the filters you need, for a whole lot less money. For all the filters on the tractor, and all the fluids, is going to be under $100. Get yourself a operators manual online to get yourself started on a maintainance schedule. Nothing difficult about that end of it.

scotty

 

[davesisk]

Hey Scott:

Do I need the MF part #'s for the filters, or will NAPA be able to look it up by the tractor model?

I have the operator's manual, which lists all the maintenance tasks and how to do them. I don't have the service manual, which I'd assume lists part #'s for everything...correct or no?

Thx,
Dave

 

[Syncro]

Dave- my local napa dealer was able to look up all of my filters with just the year/model. I listed the cross numbers for my 1240 hydraulic filter, but I don't know if it is the same for the 1220. You could check the MF filter that is on your machine and see if its the same number below.

NAPA #7110
MF #3703386 M1
WIX #557110

 

[davesisk]

Awesome...thank you so much! It looks like from the operator's manual that you have to drain the hydro fluid to change the filters...is that correct? (On my old Power-trac, you just changed the filter and bled the tram pump...didn't have to drain the fluid, which is good since it was 10 gallons of 10W40 motor oil!) The manual mentions saving it to refill...seems to me if you're going to drain it, you might as well refill it with fresh fluid, unless it's ridiculously expensive!

Dave

 

[davesisk]

Hey Jerry:

Will do. Do I run any risk of burning up a pump or other damage if there's air getting in? (In other words, is this a "don't run it until you fix it" type situation?) Any suggestions on where to start looking? (On my old Power-trac, the pump suction line was the only place to be concerned about, anything else would push the air out automatically.)

Thanks for the answers...I hope to learn the workings of this machine as well as I knew the Power-trac, but it'll take a while. I appreciate everyone's answers and posts!

Thx!
Dave

 

[JerryG]

Dave,
You are not in any immediate danger, but I would get it fixed asap. Over time, it would cause damage if the air intake is excessive. Check every fitting that has threads to make sure that they are tight. Then check the clamps that are on the suction line. Sometimes a clamp will not be straight when it is tightened up and the air can get in that way.

 

[MattL]

Hey, I got a little MF1220 also! It's great! I look forward to weekends where I can tear stuff up with it.

I was curious about going to NAPA for filters and stuff. Did you have any luck with that? What did you use for hydraulic fluid? MF of course lists their hydraulic fluid as the only option, but I have no MF dealer anywhere near.

Anyway, congrats on the purchase!

 

[JerryG]

On the 1220 it makes a difference with the serial number and there is a difference between the standard transmission and hydro. This is on the hydraulic filter.

 

[davesisk]

Hey folks:

I'm trying to find that post with the mail-order source for inexpensive Massey-Ferguson service manuals. I've seen here on the MF forum (if I'm not mistaken), but can't seem to find it again. Does anyone recall the post or the URL itself?

I'd assume the service manual covers both the manual and HST tranny's, correct?

TIA,
Dave

 

[JerryG]

Dave,
You will hard pressed to find a good manual less expensive that the Massey Corp manual. The last two full sets that I purchased was less than a $100 with binder. The set included, tractor repair shop manual, engine manual, tractor parts manual, loader manual and backhoe manual.

 

[davesisk]

Hey Matt:

Good to hear from another 1220 owner...there don't seem to be too many around, which is surprising to me. I had sent you a private message before I bought this guy...go take a read if you haven't already.

I haven't gotten the filters and fluids yet...still researching and I'm short on time until July. It does look like NAPA has the $80 hydro filter for $45, though!

Is your's HST or manual? Any limitations that you've run into yet?

Regards,
Dave

 

[davesisk]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Dave,
I would check all of your lines. You may have a leak that is letting air into the system. )</font>

Jerry, what's the best way to find air leaks? Ears with the engine revs low? I'd assume I'm only looking on the suction line, which would be from the hydro filter at the rear back to the front underneath the frame, right? If it were leak in a pressure line, I'd get squirting fluid rather than air sucked in AFAIK.

 

[MattL]

Oh man, sorry I missed that question. I'm fairly new to this forum, and was even thinking to myself the other day why the dum little envelope was flashing at me /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif . Gosh, maybe I otta' click around a bit more around here.

Anyway, price you mentioned sounds good. I got mine a bit less, but it has a SPRAY CAN paint job /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif that I will soon get rid of, and a couple other rough things. About 500 hours when I got it. But engine, chassis, hydraulics, etc, it's been great. I have got it seriously stuck in the mud a few times, but that's just dum driving I think. I have a manual transmission, so I'm still trying to figure out the footwork between shifting, clutching, breaking, and using the diff lock pedal... all at the same time.

I put a rather hefty box scraper on it, and have really been able to tear stuff up with that. I really want to look into a Top-n-Tilt kit for the scraper though. Getting old having to jump off and twist the link whenever I need a different angle.

As far as maintenance, I haven't had to do much except oil change. Probably should do a hydraulic flush and filter soon. Lots of little rattles that I've been tightening up over time. All the hydraulic lines on the FEL rattled like crazy when I got it. Weird.

As far as FEL strength, I have the 48" bucket, and had it absolutely jam packed with cement chunks and rocks the other day, and it handled it no problemo, as long as the RPMs are up in the operating range. The biggest problem was the front tires almost pealed off the rim when trying to manuever around with that much weight on them.

Anyway, still learning what this thing's capabilities are. So far, the biggest limitation has been my ignorance of it's capabilities. Surprised each time I use it what it can do.

Have fun! Let me know if you do any cool mods or jobs with it!

 

[MattL]

BTW, I got some pretty good manuals for this from a few different sources.

www.manuals.us
www.stores.ebay.com/jammersclassics?refid=store
www.jensales.com

I was a bit disappointed in the service manual from Jensales. It was just a photo copy. And the service manual hasn't really provided me any useful info yet.

The operators manual and parts list from manuals.us have been great. They look like real factory manuals, but are probably reprints of some sort.

 

[davesisk]

Hey Matt, are all the various filter part#'s in any of these manuals? That's the thing that's totally missing from the operator's manual that I have....it describes how to change the filter, but doesn't give the filter part#...duh....

Dave