New member tractor advice

[jeff9366]

I do keep drifting more towards the older higher HP tractors while browsing. Then I think, how much diesel is that thing going to suck down, but then it’s pulling a wider mower so it will go faster.

From my experience with compact tractors I will speculate an older 100-horsepower diesel engine tractor will consume no more than 1-3/4 gallons of diesel fuel per hour while mowing with a 144" Rotary Cutter.

Surely your time is more valuable a commodity than diesel fuel while mowing......

When you shop used tractors inspect the tires closely. Tractor tires, especially low production rear tires, can be very expensive. Rear tire replacement is often the catalyst for old tractor sales.

 

[jeff9366]

There is more woods than fields but didn’t mention it because I was only concerned about the tractor.

How many acres will you mow?

 

[paulsharvey]

How many acres will you mow?

I’m in Tennessee.
How long to go from a bunch of crap to baling hay?
Also with CRP I’m not sure I could do it. Just now learning about that program.

So, about 2 days ago, I started a thread asking about CRP, and other stuff similar. You can find it, by clicking on my name, and looking for recent posts. It had some info that others gave me.

 

[wolc123]

From my experience with compact tractors I will speculate an older 100-horsepower diesel engine tractor will consume no more than 1-3/4 gallons of diesel fuel per hour while mowing.

Surely your time is more valuable a commodity than diesel fuel while mowing......

When you shop used tractors inspect the tires closely. Tractor tires, especially rear tires, are very expensive. Rear tire replacement is often the catalyst for old tractor sales.

That’s why I recommended that half his budget go to the pole barn. Too many folks buy tractors, leave them outside, and hope for the best.

I have (2) tractors from the 1950’s that have always been stored indoors and both still have their original tires and are still in useable condition. Sunlight is very tough on rubber.

The fronts could stand replacement on the Cub. I had to replace that right side rear rim on the Ford 8n two years ago due to calcium caused rust rot of the original. Oddly enough, it plows better than ever, with just a loaded rim on the sod side, and the new unloaded one on the furrow side. The 1951 front tires are still very good on it too.

 

[RHanna]

How many acres will you mow?

The 60-80. I calculated about 60 using google map measure distance. The tax assessor shows 10 pasture, 50 crop and 23 rotation. Not sure what the rotation is but I thought maybe all together 83. Doesn't really matter, I know it's at least 60. The woodland area is larger than the all the fields I just didn't include it in my story since it doesn't have any bearing on tractor purchase. I'd never use the tractor on any of it except for maybe road grading.

Good to know about the tires. I'm sure inspecting would be how much tread left, dry rot, and does it have any plugs. Anything else to look out for?

 

[RHanna]

So, about 2 days ago, I started a thread asking about CRP, and other stuff similar. You can find it, by clicking on my name, and looking for recent posts. It had some info that others gave me.

I'll check it out. I'm not overly concerned with it right now (it seems to be more complicated than I anticipated). We know the people that work at the USDA office in that county from the church we used to attend. They also came through my dad's funeral visitation.

There seems to be a little bit of every field enrolled in the program currently. I also started looking at carbon credits but I can't tell if that's worth the work.

 

[jeff9366]

Good to know about worn tires. I'm sure inspecting would be how much tread left, dry rot, and does it have any plugs. Anything else to look out for?

Many older 2-WD ag tractors used CORROSIVE calcium chloride tire fill for weight and to prevent tire-fill freezing. Look carefully at the steel rims for corrosion. You can buy replacement tractor tires easily. Replacing a corroded rim MAY present a problem. Older ag tractors were almost universally fitted with R1/ag tires. Today, not many are. Demand has moved away from R1 rims.

 

[rockinbbar]

I do keep drifting more towards the older higher HP tractors while browsing. Then I think, how much diesel is that thing going to suck down, but then it’s pulling a wider mower so it will go faster.

I think a loader would be nice but I’d probably use it infrequently.

Even a higher hp than what you originally posted probably wouldn't use much diesel, compared to the work it'll do.

I have an Ag Service business and run 2 tractors with batwing cutters. Yesterday I was on my 75hp New Holland Powerstar and running a 12' batwing all day. Used about 11 gallons of diesel, but covered lots of acres. The place I'm on is very smooth riding compared to lots of places I cut. I was running 3.4mph. That's making good time.

Last week I finished a big ranch that was thick and had lots of trees to cut around, which takes more time compared to open fields or pastures. I was running that 120hp Powerstar at 2.6mph max and 2.0mph in very thick stuff with a 15' batwing. That tractor uses about 16 gallons a day in hard conditions. But again, it covers lots of ground.

 

[CaptPat]

Given the acreage you are looking to tend I would be looking for something like a JD 5 series with no less than 75 engine hp. The HP and weight of the tractor will facilitate larger attachments. Other brands have offerings in this size as well. It should be reasonably easy to find something in the used market as this is a popular size. I consider a FEL mandatory equipment.

 

[airbiscuit]

I kind of like the pole building first.tractor second approach. It gives both the tractor and you shelter. You could spend a little less for your first tractor to get things started.