New L5740HSTC3 loader question

[daugen]

Am anxiously awaiting my new tractor, which is being slowed down by waiting for Long to send their grapple bucket, though I'm told it will be worth the wait.
My question involves rpm level for loader work. This tractor has an almost confusing set of operational modes, though I think several will be the go to ones.
When using the loader to pick up close to rated capacity (yes I have a ballast box ordered), what rpm is needed to get full hydraulic power from the system?
Is hydraulic power linear with rpm, or is it like torque and comes on "down low"? Never had a FEL before and tend to run equipment at lower rpm if only to
reduce the noise, though I think this cab tractor will be pretty quiet.
I'm sure this will be the first question of many, and I appreciate your input. Drew

 

[TripleR]

You got me, I run mine pretty much by feel anywhere from 1500 to 2300 or so and it works fine doing loader work. Revving it up higher didn't seem to get me much more if any and it gets pretty jerky at high RPM.

 

[daugen]

thanks Triple R. I've used zero turn mowers before that warn against operating at lower rpm due to hydraulic motor damage, not sure why. The new Kubota has Stall Guard and all kinds of other nanny devices so I don't think I'll stall it, but wondered if low rpm operation would do any damage. My concern also applies to the JR Long grapple, but these are all hydraulic cylinder operated, not motors like a z turn mower, so perhaps it's apples and oranges. I was thinking of running in the 1500 to 2000 range to start.
Just didn't want to do unnecessary newbie damage.

 

[MHarryE]

If you use auto throttle with the lever set to idle, you will end up with a very lethargic loader. By this I mead sloooow curl and lift once you are stopped and the engine idles down. I bump my engine speed control lever up a bit so the engine will only come back so far. How much is that? For me no single setting fits all. Sometimes a lethargic loader is what I want because I am doing precise work, and the next time I might be loading gravel at the pit and cycle time is important so I am near full engine speed at idle. It will all work out well for you once you try it. I have seen that some adjust their auto-throttle linkage to suit their needs but I am at 300 hours and still don't know if there would be an optimum.

 

[TripleR]

It's a learning process and you will learn to adjust your RPM to fit your needs; varies from one tractor to the next.

The 5740 and most of the CUTs seem like they are really running fast at optimum power if you are use to older or bigger machines, 540 PTO is about 2600 on the 5740, but only 2250 on our M8540 and even less on our older tractors.

It takes a while to learn to get the best performance out of the HST+, so don't get concerned. I don't use all the features, but what I do makes it well worth while.

I always get my Operator Manual and read it through before the tractor is delivered.

Good luck.

Kubota HST-Plus Transmission - YouTube

Kubota L-40 Series Service

 

[daugen]

well you've educated me already, I would have never thought auto throttle was good for anything but pulling a wagon or a non-implement/pto task. There is the adjustment for "hydro response" or whatever they call it, I'm assuming it
just lowers the available gpm, so my thought was that for heavier loads, and not wanting the jerkiness, to slow things down that way. When I test drove the tractor, I was surprised how jerky the FEL was, granted I was probably operating
it poorly, but I'm retired, rarely in a rush, so I'd tend to go slower, particularly if I'm carrying weight. I will be doing mostly light land clearing and firewood detail, including picking up some rounds that are close to three feet, and hoping I can learn to use the grapple well enough to put those rounds down slowly and carefully on my large logsplitter. I've tried to split the big rounds with splitter in vertical, and it's backbreaking work. Once I get them up on splitter, horizontal works better, but this would be precision work and I surely need some practice first. And next time I tell the tree guy to take anything more than 24 inches away, my eyes were bigger than my back when I saw all that tree laying there. Lots of woods, can be pickier on what I work on. So I'll practice using a variety of settings. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[daugen]

thanks Triple R, our posts crossed, we're both up early. I've watched that YouTube video already, but not the second one, thanks.

 

[TripleR]

thanks Triple R, our posts crossed, we're both up early. I've watched that YouTube video already, but not the second one, thanks.

I retired five years ago and after growing up on a farm and getting up early for college then my job of 32 years I thought. "Thanks God, now I can finally sleep late"; well I was wrong, just not in me.:laughing:

 

[texasjohn]

You'll soon learn how to move the FEL at speeds appropriate to task. It can be very slooooow, or faster as you discovered.
I highly recommend making a habit of resting your elbow on the arm rest when operating the FEL lever. This stabilizes your arm and allows fine motor control with wrist action on lever. I do not believe there is any rpm speed which is damaging to engine, transmission, FEL or 3ph...beyond the usual wear incurred by operating any such device.

Net, run at rpm's that make you comfortable and provide the operating speed and power you desire for the task at hand. You're getting a great tractor with excellent features and attachments...enjoy and don't worry about damaging it by simply using it. Like you, I run equipment at rpm speeds minimum to get the task done. But, am not afraid to run at 2600 rpm when at PTO operation or asking for max capacity from tractor. The HST+ is a real step ahead of simple HST, wish I had it. True, engine noise is reduced by the cab. Suggestion, have the dealer CHECK the hydraulic pressure relief for FEL...my L5030 was under specification and lift capacity was dramatically increased when pressure was increased by adding a shim to the relief valve. This is an easy test/fix for the dealer to do. With the grapple, you will want all the lifting power you can get....am glad to hear you are getting a ballast box...BEWARE, on my tractor, I can EASILY lift rear tires off ground when lifting with FEL without proper rear ballast...and I mean approximately 1000 lbs. Proper rear weight will keep all tires on ground and the relief valve will pop (this is normal, no problem, you will hear a hisssss) when the loader has reached its maximum lift capacity. The relief valve setting is far more significant to max lift capacity than is rpm. I always have a counter weight when operating the FEL. Also, I highly recommend filling your rear tires with liquid...adds to ballast. Many, many TBN members have loaded tires. Front tires should be aired to near max PSI shown on sidewall...numerous TBN members did not pay attention to this and under max FEL loads and turning have rolled their tires off the rim. I just mention these things since this is your first FEL. Consider chain hooks on your FEL....sooooo handy for many, many things...also, a tooth bar if you are going to be doing dirt work...for me, the tooth bar about doubles the capability and usefulness of the FEL. Money well spent. You are getting a quick attach on the fel, aren't you?? Another extremely handy must have, IMHO.

 

[daugen]

I did order the removable tooth bar for the bucket, didn't think of the chain hook, thanks, and have been checking out the quick attach. I have bad arthritis and a bad back, not that it slows me down much, but anything that makes life easier or safer is a good thing. The implements are way too heavy for me to horse around, and using a 2x4 to push things into position is not much fun. Plus the quick attach would seem to avoid the handful of grease one gets from fiddling with the normal connector. There was a post on this site showing a pic of a member with his tractor almost vertical in the air, with no rear ballast, and that pic will stay with me for a long time. My problem with loaded tires is making the tractor too heavy for me to tow with my Suburban. I'm good for 9400 pounds, and I try to keep the load at least a half ton under that. So with a FEL and a half ton in the ballast box, not sure if the math works. Many thanks. Drew