New kubota tractor advice

[kwbretired]

You could use a stump bucket for digging up rocks & stumps which they are designed for. Grapple lids are also available for the stump bucket. They are sold by several manufacturers, Quick Attached, Everything Attachments, etc.

 

[Bullwinkle123]

Thank you. My debate now is if I do get one 4,000+ would I be stupid to take a very expensive grapple and get rocks out? I don't want it to bend. Pallet forks I assume are cheaper and it would be their only purpose, not that I'd wanna bend them but it wouldn't much matter other than resell when I was done with them.
If it is wrong to take a good grapple to do what I'm wanting to do one alternative is subsoiler. Could I possibly use a subsoiler to pop them out a bit loose without tearing up my back end hydraulics? Bucket space I guess is an option but I feel grapple would be superior to it. Speaking something MX or bigger. If all this is bad ideas would the TLB series in kubota be a bad deal with the backhoe? Expensive for me but it is what it is I'd just wait until I could.

You have to look at the grapple/rock thing situationaly. My grapple has pretty stout composition. I wouldn't worry about rocks if all I'm doing is using the forces the way it's designed to be used, i.e. close the grapple on the rock. I'd worry more if I was trying to put sideways forces on the tines, for example if I was (and I wouldn't) trying to move trees with the tree between the tines.

That said, my particular grapple isn't the best at digging out rocks below the surface, the pallet forks are just better at getting in the dirt and prying the rock loose. That has limits too though.

A subsoiler will probably work okay for loosening small and shallow rocks, but isn't going to move bigger rocks like pallet forks might.

TL;DR: grapple is great for ... grabbing/grappling, and only on the horizontal plane. It isn't really a digger. Neither are pallet forks, but as an ad-hoc "use what you have" solution they're okay in a pinch.

 

[Ished]

Your better off just getting the l47 or older l45 tlb get the 3rd function and backhoe aux output get the 3 point arms you will have a tractor that will out work any ag tractor. And size isnt a huge tractor little bigger then most 35 hp ag tractors. I love my l45 tlb it's truly ment for working

 

[Fastball]

Before shelling out tons of money for a new, heavier unit - consider how much it would cost to get a guy with proper machinery to clean up your trouble areas. Farming that job out to a guy with a mini-excavator (or renting one) to dig up your problem rocks, stumps, or whatever might be a cheaper option than buying a whole new unit that only MIGHT be able to do what’s needed. Your existing tractor might be sufficient to maintain those areas afterwards when properly kitted out with new tires, ballast, and/or chains.

 

[HEC]

I agree with the dozer or excavator suggestion . I have a B series and a m 5700 kubota and the M would have a hard time doing what you need done . I have a disc and they are not some magic bullet on the type of ground you are talking about . They will ride up over rocks and roots if there is any size to them . A disc really shines on plowed ground . I have a heavy duty spring tooth harrow and it will pull up medium size rocks with no problem on plowed ground , if on sod ground it will just pull up clumps of sod . Good luck with your project

 

[Jokela Power Equipment]

If you are considering a disc w/ angled coulters along with extra weight in place, as you already know it seems, 26 hp may not be enough, not to mention the incorrect tires for traction purposes. There is a Till-Ease Model 543 Chisel Plow / Field Cultivator on the market that is built-like-a-tank but also small enough to access hard to reach areas / food plots. You may not need to trade-in for a new tractor but different tires may still be a necessity. The 5 coulters on the 543 are in-line (not angled) to slice the soil & tree roots (depending on diameter) before the five chisel plow / cultivator shovels turn the soil directly behind them. Two styles of cultivator shanks are included - standard chisel point & 9" sweeps. The manufacturer realizes the Model 543 will face virgin soil conditions often. Wisely - they have made the shanks easily removable into any configuration depending on type of soil or tractor horsepower. Even though the 543 has two plates for extra weight, it normally is not needed because the angle of cultivator shanks pulls itself into whatever depth is desired.

 

[CoyPatton]

I see lots of post encouraging a larger tractor. While I have no problems with a larger tractor, will it serve your needs or cause you to not be able to do the work you need/want to do?
Even going to an L3901 from a B2601, I believe you will find a significant size difference. This size difference may mean you will not be able to get the L tractor to where you want to go (remember a longer tractor takes more clear area to make a simple turn, tight spots are not your friend, while a taller and wider machine present their own issues).
As others have stated you may try chains, you also probably need more ballast if rear wheels are coming up off ground—there is no traction when ground contact is lost. Another possible solution is getting R1’s for your B2601. It probably means new rims and tires all the way around, but much less than a new tractor.
One last big concern is safety! When you lose ground contact, you have lost stability. At this point you have increased the risk of equipment damage and personal bodily injury.

 

[Squirrel Tooth Alice]

I wouldn't be disappointed with that machine. It's good at doing what it's supposed to do.
Making these efforts (and failing) helps you to understand the magnitude of what you're trying to accomplish.
I have a M7040 with power at all 4 wheels, and I wouldn't expect it to be able to yank that stump out, unless the stump is decayed.
Years ago I attempted to pull a fresh stump about that size with 6200 lbs. Ford F-250 4x4 (and failed). You're asking a lot of that little machine.

 

[thirdroc17]

I have a B2650, only a few lbs heavier than yours as they come from the factory. But I have my tires filled with rimguard, I keep a 300 lb box blade on the rear and I have 480 lbs of steel plates hanging on that box blade.

By chance are your tires not loaded? I have around 700 lbs of fluid in my (larger than you have) tires, plus almost 800 lbs on the 3 point. My rears pretty much can not lift. Another thing I did was adjusted my loader hydraulic pressure up... more than the WSM says is allowed. That makes a huge change in loader performance.

You might be able to add weight to what you have and get where you need to be as far as traction?

Sorry to say, you have a recipe for disaster there. Adding a LOT of weight to a too small tractor will eventually break something. Been there, done that. Same for overpowering your hydraulics. At best, the hydraulic pump will have a shortened life, at worst, you're gonna bend something.

A tractor properly sized for the job will always work better, and last longer, than overworking a smaller tractor.

 

[RSR]

If you're wanting to dig rocks with a grapple, get the right type of grapple, and a large enough tractor. I have a 4,400 lb dry weight tractor (with loaded tires and loader, pushing 6,500 lbs) for 5 acres.

If you want to dig rocks, don't get a wide clamshell grapple. You will catch edges on other rocks, making digging rocks almost impossible. Instead, get a frost bite (or Igland/Sundown Gr-20) style grapple. They are cheaper too (~$1,500). It is much easier to get under rocks and pop them out. You can do it with forks, but then you are changing implements to pick them up and move them.

The earlier advice to first break the soil up with a subsoiler first is sound advice as well. I learned that too late.

Here are two piles of rocks I dug out last summer using a Sundown GR-20 grapple to put in a parking pad that was about 30 ft × 40 ft. I have extremely rocky ground.