New Holland wont start

[Bpotts]

I have a new holland 1510. Tilled a garden spot and parked it for a few minutes and came back and now will not start. There's no click from the starter and none of the dash indicator lights will come on.

Things I have done:
Had battery tested
Cleaned terminals
Checked grounds
Checked safety switches
Checked fuses

I have power at fuse block, srarter and ignition switch. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Rebeldad1]

is it left in pto mode to run the tiller?

 

[Bpotts]

Pto is in the off position. There has to be a short somewhere I'm thinking because none of the lights come on the dash when I turn the key on.

 

[jaydee325]

Pto is in the off position. There has to be a short somewhere I'm thinking because none of the lights come on the dash when I turn the key on.

Have you positively turned the PTO switch off?

I stopped the PTO one time by just giving the switch a quick stab, which did turn off the PTO, however it did not make up the interlock. I happened to notice the switch slightly off center.

 

[AndyMA]

Probably not a short. Sounds like an open circuit. I'd check the grounds

 

[CoyPatton]

I have a new holland 1510. Tilled a garden spot and parked it for a few minutes and came back and now will not start. There's no click from the starter and none of the dash indicator lights will come on.

Things I have done:
Had battery tested
Cleaned terminals
Checked grounds
Checked safety switches
Checked fuses

I have power at fuse block, srarter and ignition switch. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

You say you have power at starter. Is this the battery cable to the starter, or the ignition switch wire when in start position?
No lights on dash— that should be a key in run thing through the fuses.
Starter not clicking sounds like a safety switch issue. However if you get power from the battery to the starter and the ignition switch when in start position-that sounds like starter issues. You could have a starter ground issue as well Your starter grounds through the contact to the bell housing and the mount bolts. Check for voltage at starter terminals using starter body for ground source as well as frame.

 

[Bpotts]

I have power at both. I probed each wire with a test light on the ignition as I cycled the key and got power at each one.
I had a few minutes before work today and found one of the parking brake switch wires bare and with no connector. It sparked once and now nothing with a test light. I traced those wires to 2 relays near the pto and gear selector next to the seat.

 

[CoyPatton]

I have power at both. I probed each wire with a test light on the ignition as I cycled the key and got power at each one.
I had a few minutes before work today and found one of the parking brake switch wires bare and with no connector. It sparked once and now nothing with a test light. I traced those wires to 2 relays near the pto and gear selector next to the seat.

When it sparked, it most likely blew a fuse.
If you power at the ignition start terminal at the starter, and battery power. You are not getting the amps needed to engage the starter-probably from a ground issue (my best guess would be contact via starter bolts/bell housing/starter housing).
With power at both terminals at the starter, your safety switches would seem to be fine.
The wire,that sparked, circuit was working for it to have sparked—again likely now have a blown fuse.
Personally if I found the ground issue I suspect as noted above, I would build a short jumper wire for a ground wire. I would pull one starter bolt and connect one end via an eyelet to the bolt and tighten it, then put the other end to a ground on the frame.
Test you starter ground by tightening your started bolts and try again to start the tractor. If that does not start the tractor, use a set of booster cables and run from negative battery terminal to starter housing (tightened bolt head). You may want to put a charger on the battery. It sounds like you have been checking lots of stuff and key on can deplete the charge.

 

[Bpotts]

I figured I would of blew a fuse also. There are only 4 fuses and they are good. I've only grounds I have found are the main one off the battery and one coming out of the wire loom to the engine block. That makes sense about the starter bolt ground and will try it when I get off work in the morning.

Another thing is I haven't found any power on any pins on the safty controller, which I assume all the safty switches go into. I appreciate all the info. I work on alot of stuff but electric is my weak point.

 

[CoyPatton]

I figured I would of blew a fuse also. There are only 4 fuses and they are good. I've only grounds I have found are the main one off the battery and one coming out of the wire loom to the engine block. That makes sense about the starter bolt ground and will try it when I get off work in the morning.

Another thing is I haven't found any power on any pins on the safty controller, which I assume all the safty switches go into. I appreciate all the info. I work on alot of stuff but electric is my weak point.

Safety switches typically are in the ignition to starter solenoid wiring. They are either open, meaning the starter will not get voltage from the ignition, or closed, power from ignition is present.
Safety switches are typically tested with an ohm meter, checking that in one position there is resistance and in the other position there is no resistance. They can fail either way and be considered non functioning. Although in practice they are only checked when it is suspected a switch is providing resistance in both positions.