New Holland wont start

[Bpotts]

I have a new holland 1510. Tilled a garden spot and parked it for a few minutes and came back and now will not start. There's no click from the starter and none of the dash indicator lights will come on.

Things I have done:
Had battery tested
Cleaned terminals
Checked grounds
Checked safety switches
Checked fuses

I have power at fuse block, srarter and ignition switch. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[Rebeldad1]

is it left in pto mode to run the tiller?

 

[Bpotts]

Pto is in the off position. There has to be a short somewhere I'm thinking because none of the lights come on the dash when I turn the key on.

 

[jaydee325]

Pto is in the off position. There has to be a short somewhere I'm thinking because none of the lights come on the dash when I turn the key on.

Have you positively turned the PTO switch off?

I stopped the PTO one time by just giving the switch a quick stab, which did turn off the PTO, however it did not make up the interlock. I happened to notice the switch slightly off center.

 

[AndyMA]

Probably not a short. Sounds like an open circuit. I'd check the grounds

 

[CoyPatton]

I have a new holland 1510. Tilled a garden spot and parked it for a few minutes and came back and now will not start. There's no click from the starter and none of the dash indicator lights will come on.

Things I have done:
Had battery tested
Cleaned terminals
Checked grounds
Checked safety switches
Checked fuses

I have power at fuse block, srarter and ignition switch. Any pointers would be appreciated. Thanks

You say you have power at starter. Is this the battery cable to the starter, or the ignition switch wire when in start position?
No lights on dash— that should be a key in run thing through the fuses.
Starter not clicking sounds like a safety switch issue. However if you get power from the battery to the starter and the ignition switch when in start position-that sounds like starter issues. You could have a starter ground issue as well Your starter grounds through the contact to the bell housing and the mount bolts. Check for voltage at starter terminals using starter body for ground source as well as frame.

 

[Bpotts]

I have power at both. I probed each wire with a test light on the ignition as I cycled the key and got power at each one.
I had a few minutes before work today and found one of the parking brake switch wires bare and with no connector. It sparked once and now nothing with a test light. I traced those wires to 2 relays near the pto and gear selector next to the seat.

 

[CoyPatton]

I have power at both. I probed each wire with a test light on the ignition as I cycled the key and got power at each one.
I had a few minutes before work today and found one of the parking brake switch wires bare and with no connector. It sparked once and now nothing with a test light. I traced those wires to 2 relays near the pto and gear selector next to the seat.

When it sparked, it most likely blew a fuse.
If you power at the ignition start terminal at the starter, and battery power. You are not getting the amps needed to engage the starter-probably from a ground issue (my best guess would be contact via starter bolts/bell housing/starter housing).
With power at both terminals at the starter, your safety switches would seem to be fine.
The wire,that sparked, circuit was working for it to have sparked—again likely now have a blown fuse.
Personally if I found the ground issue I suspect as noted above, I would build a short jumper wire for a ground wire. I would pull one starter bolt and connect one end via an eyelet to the bolt and tighten it, then put the other end to a ground on the frame.
Test you starter ground by tightening your started bolts and try again to start the tractor. If that does not start the tractor, use a set of booster cables and run from negative battery terminal to starter housing (tightened bolt head). You may want to put a charger on the battery. It sounds like you have been checking lots of stuff and key on can deplete the charge.

 

[Bpotts]

I figured I would of blew a fuse also. There are only 4 fuses and they are good. I've only grounds I have found are the main one off the battery and one coming out of the wire loom to the engine block. That makes sense about the starter bolt ground and will try it when I get off work in the morning.

Another thing is I haven't found any power on any pins on the safty controller, which I assume all the safty switches go into. I appreciate all the info. I work on alot of stuff but electric is my weak point.

 

[CoyPatton]

I figured I would of blew a fuse also. There are only 4 fuses and they are good. I've only grounds I have found are the main one off the battery and one coming out of the wire loom to the engine block. That makes sense about the starter bolt ground and will try it when I get off work in the morning.

Another thing is I haven't found any power on any pins on the safty controller, which I assume all the safty switches go into. I appreciate all the info. I work on alot of stuff but electric is my weak point.

Safety switches typically are in the ignition to starter solenoid wiring. They are either open, meaning the starter will not get voltage from the ignition, or closed, power from ignition is present.
Safety switches are typically tested with an ohm meter, checking that in one position there is resistance and in the other position there is no resistance. They can fail either way and be considered non functioning. Although in practice they are only checked when it is suspected a switch is providing resistance in both positions.

 

[kirkawilson]

If you can 'jump' start your tractor between the battery connection on the starter and the solenoid (I use a screwdriver, and there are sparks), then there is a problem in your wiring harness somewhere...safety switches, relays, grounding, ignition switch, etc.

 

[Bpotts]

I did find a blown fuse and my battery cable on the hot side was dirty. I cleaned the post at first and didn't think to get the inside of the clamp till this afternoon after it wouldn't start again and no dash lights. After cleaning the inside of the battery clamps the dash lights are back on and brighter than before and cranking good. I also got a couple bare wires repaired and a rat nest behind the cluster out. Hopefully all this gets me buy for a while. Appreciate all the advice and suggestions guys. Have a Massey Ferguson 150 gas burner ill be getting into in the next few weeks that was my late step-dads that's been sitting a couple years. Hope to put it back to work this summer.

 

[jaxs]

I did find a blown fuse and my battery cable on the hot side was dirty. I cleaned the post at first and didn't think to get the inside of the clamp till this afternoon after it wouldn't start again and no dash lights. After cleaning the inside of the battery clamps the dash lights are back on and brighter than before and cranking good. I also got a couple bare wires repaired and a rat nest behind the cluster out. Hopefully all this gets me buy for a while. Appreciate all the advice and suggestions guys. Have a Massey Ferguson 150 gas burner ill be getting into in the next few weeks that was my late step-dads that's been sitting a couple years. Hope to put it back to work this summer.

I'm happy to hear you have it fixed. Now I have a question for you. Why did you say "I have power at fuse block, srarter and ignition switch." in your first post? You would not have power any of those places if cable conection was dirty as you just stated above. Pranks like that poison the water hole for others who ask for help. At least that's how I see it. Did I missunderstand either or both post #1 and 12 or do they indeed conterdict one another?

 

[Bpotts]

Don't know where you get any of this as a "prank" and I was very appreciative about the advice and suggestions given. You could of asked first instead of assuming I was trying bs folks on a forum I had just joined.
Just to make you happy the tractor is an 08 and gets used so it's dirty. I did have power to everything on that first post I made and when I took the positive side off and back on later it must not had a good connection and therefore wasn't getting power to the starter. I probed the batter terminal and had power and then probed the positive cable and starter and would get a very weak light or no light when I was messing with it. I then cleaned the battery post and inside of the post clamps and a good connection. So in regards to post 1 and 12 is I had cleaned the battery post and not the inside cables that attach to the post. I had everything off several time so your guess is good as mine.
The fuse I found blowed I didn't test both sides if the fuse with the light till I realized it later. A dumb mistake on my part. Yea I could of pulled it but I just hit it with a light like the smaller auto fuses not realizing to test both sides of the fuse.

Thanks again to the members that gave me advice and I have gained some knowledge for the next time I have to troubleshoot an electrical problem.

To jaxs. Have a good day.