Price Check New Holland vs. TYM

[jonlorusso]

Hi,

I've got two quotes I need help comparing:


(new) New Holland T1030 26HP w/ belly mower and front loader - $16,500

vs.

(new) TYM T233 23HP also w/ belly mower and loader - $14,100

additionally, they are both offering 72 month 0% financing.


This would be my first tractor.


The New Holland dealer told me to stay away from anything that's not New Holland (of course!) Kubota or John Deere, but $2400 is a lot of money.

I have 14 acres (most of it is wooded), perhaps 2-3 of that would need mowing, with an additional 2 acre pasture that I'd eventually like to till. All of it is hilly (sloping down away from the house).

Eventually, I would like to attach a backhoe or a trencher one day and put in a waterline to the barn (200' ft away, 4 ft frostline here in NJ).

Any thoughts?


thanks,
--jon

 

[sweettractors]

If something happened to you and things had to be liquidated, which tractor outfit would sell closer to its purchase price? When you get away from mainline tractors, I like to see $4000+ difference in pricing. Ken Sweet

 

[tchmango]

Think Ken is giving good advice. Just traded in a tractor with less than 100 hours and took about a 40% hit on it. Good tractor, in perfect condition, but with lesser known name. Personally I would rent a trencher for the weekend and wear out someone else equipment. You do not mention what your plans are for the Front end loader. I bought a BX 2660 this summer for mowing. Is ready for FEL to be attached but I passed on that as I have other larger tractor for those task. What are your thoughts about each dealer. That is who is going to take care of you and the tractor after the sale. Very important in my view. Good luck.

 

[SARG]

I have a T1030 on about 7 acres with a fel,Wood's bh, 48"brush cutter and mmm ( that I've never used ). It works but I must mention I often wish I'd gotten a bigger machine like the Massey 1500 or 1600 series.

 

[Loren49]

Has anyone had recent experience of trading in a relatively new "top name" tractor without a significant loss. Usually if you are trading for a considerably more expensive tractor, the trade in value is somewhat inflated. Also has anyone sold a relatively new tractor outright and not lost a good bit of money. A 40% loss on $10000 is the same as a 20% loss on $20000.

tcmango - I'd be interested in the actual dollar values of your example for future reference.

Thanks,
Loren

 

[bp fick]

Has anyone had recent experience of trading in a relatively new "top name" tractor without a significant loss. Usually if you are trading for a considerably more expensive tractor, the trade in value is somewhat inflated. Also has anyone sold a relatively new tractor outright and not lost a good bit of money. A 40% loss on $10000 is the same as a 20% loss on $20000.

tcmango - I'd be interested in the actual dollar values of your example for future reference.

Thanks,
Loren

There is some wisdom is what you say. Keep a tractor, any color, for a year and the "hit" is pretty stiff. One reason, among many, is the 0% deals. No one is going to buy your used machine without saving a ton of cash.

The percentage of "hit" might be tolerable in buying a "lower bracket" name tractor, but I honestly believe the sheer number of responses one would get from a Craigslist ad would be greatly different. The top 3 or 4 OEMs have name recognition and a large fan base established. Too many potential shoppers simply wouldn't recognize the name of some of the newer brand offerings. Just saying, right or wrong, I'm pretty sure it is a perception reality.

 

[Loren49]

I'm not disagreeing with your perception but it is not a black or white issue.

Another example is that when $5000 more is spent on the "top name" machine and you keep it for 12 years that money at 6% interest would be become a $10,000 difference (rule of 72). (6% is not realistic recently but may be reasonable for long the term) Obviously if the less expensive tractor does not hold up as well then the savings disappears.

Loren

 

[JCB]

bp is giving pretty good advice. On the used market I wouldn't consider an off brand tractor unless it was a LOT cheaper than one from the big three, and by a lot I'm talking 50%.

Jon, are you comparing similar models for the price? Is the 1030 really the same tractor as the 233. All manufacturers play games with the ratings, but if pto hp is really 23 and 26 between the two....that could certainly be a big factor in the cost difference!

 

[tchmango]

My example of a trade was the following:
Branson 3510i with FEL bought for $16,500 2007 with 0%
traded for $10,000 August 2010.

BP and others have the trade scenario pegged. Dealer must have margin and low enough price structure to sell used against new with 0%. Manufacturers lending is also looser on credit standards than local banks here.

Hope this fills in some gaps.

 

[doall]

I love my NH but have no experience with the other. but I have seen some mahindra's and such that amaze me.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Brand recognition changes rapidly, just look at Kioti who were new comers only a few years ago and I daresay that most folks on this site would not thumb their nose at them now whereas 5 years ago that may have been a different story. Rebranded tractors like Branson and Montana are a different story all together and are strictly dealer oriented. WHen the dealer goes, so does the tractor. I personally think TYM is the next Kioti tractor for America if they continue with their extended warranty and keep their prices down. Name recognition ,trade in value and dealer availability only get you so much value. For those buying a tractor to keep 10 or more years, a lesser known brand that has a good foundation in the manufacturing business, even though they may not be well known in America (Mahindra for example) may still be a great deal. Today the dealer issue is a crap shoot even with long established dealers, there is no guarantee that they are going to be there tomorrow. Just look on this site for all the post where long term name brand dealers have folded up. It all comes down to what you are willing to gamble on and what you expect from the manufacturer. Can you get parts via internet if your local dealer folds up? Are there other dealers near by say within 100 miles? Are you willing to do your own maintenance? Is the warranty worth the paper it is written on? All these have to be considered.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I think no matter what brand you are going to buy a belly mower is a mistake, especially with your wooded lot. I would skip the mower and buy a ZTR and a bigger heavier tractor with a FEL. In the long run I think you will be happier and out the same money.

You need weight and HP to do work in the woods. You also need ground clearance and the belly mower will have you hung up all the time, at least that was my experience.

Chris

 

[MBDiagMan]

I tend to agree with Diamond. I finish mow about an acre at 1 1/2 inches cutting height and another couple of acres at about 3 1/2 inch cutting height. I then shred about four more that doesn't get grazed. The rest of my place is either pasteur or hay meadow.

I use a very heavy ZTR mower for the 1 1/2 and 3 1/2 inch cutting height and a shredder for the rough mowing of what is not grazed or hayed. It works out great for me. It also makes for less attachment changing. It leaves the tractor for the serious work and the ZTR is able to trim everything closer to the edges and can really finesse trimming around trees, flower beds, gardens and other obstacles. I have such things as a internet satellite on a pole that would be catastrophic if hit by a shredder or heavy equipment. My ZTR could do it in as well, but I can control it so precisely, that there's no chance of that.

My $0.02,

 

[jonlorusso]

Thanks for all the replies.

My neighbor has a ZTR mower and a Kubota, his land is similar, if a bit steeper of an incline.

The NH dealer is about 5 miles away. The TYM dealer (they sell about 6 different brands in addition to TYM) is more like a 40 mile ride. NH dealership has been there for 85 years.

I originally had plans to buy a used JD. When I got to the dealership, the dealer laid it out for me like this: you can spend $12k on the used JD (7 years old, 600 hours), or $1500 (+ 6 years of $200 monthly payments) on this brand new New Holland. It is $6500 more, but you are getting a new machine with less hours for less money up-front.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet, I'm going to the local Kubota dealer on Saturday.

 

[arrow]

Thanks for all the replies.

My neighbor has a ZTR mower and a Kubota, his land is similar, if a bit steeper of an incline.

The NH dealer is about 5 miles away. The TYM dealer (they sell about 6 different brands in addition to TYM) is more like a 40 mile ride. NH dealership has been there for 85 years.

I originally had plans to buy a used JD. When I got to the dealership, the dealer laid it out for me like this: you can spend $12k on the used JD (7 years old, 600 hours), or $1500 (+ 6 years of $200 monthly payments) on this brand new New Holland. It is $6500 more, but you are getting a new machine with less hours for less money up-front.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet, I'm going to the local Kubota dealer on Saturday.

Actually, this is a typical dealer response trying to move product. The truth of the matter is that you can get any type of line of credit or bank loan if you need to pay for the $12000 tractor on time. The tractor would not be used as collateral. Your house would do that for you. Also , do not be swayed by percentage rates on such low amounts of money. Use the bank rate on the $12000 dollar tractor on the rate given for a personal line of credit or home equity loan and then you have something to compare as to what is actually coming out of your pocket by loan termination.

 

[JCB]

Jon,

+1 arrow

 

[sweettractors]

+ 1 for Arrow. Ken Sweet

 

[jonlorusso]

I'm not sure what you mean by "+1 arrow"

 

[sweettractors]

I'm not sure what you mean by "+1 arrow"

It means that I agree with his post. Ken Sweet

 

[mostly_gas]

Usually "+1" means I agree with the statement referenced.