New Holland 68 square baler

[farmerofva]

So I went to an auction looking for a square baler to bale about 100 bales a year I have 0 experience with a square baler I usually only do round but the waste from goats I want to make some squares. I bought it dirt cheap at an auction and knew it would need some tinkering. The chain was broken on the main drive system so I fixed it tried to cycle it by hand it wouldn't move so figured maybe been sitting a while hooked to a tractor chain snapped I tinkered further the gear box on top that I guess runs the fingers that put hay in the chamber will not move I have tapped on that bar and tried to get it to turn but something must be broken in that gear box. Has anyone ever had something mess up in that gear box and it wouldn't spin? I appreciate any suggestions or anything you can think of would be the cause.

 

[Bigfoot62]

That's probably why it was in the auction.

I would look for a gearbox on a unit that is being parted out. Maybe even buy another baler for parts. You'll probably need them.

Or, you could rebuild the box. NH has pretty good support for their stuff.

 

[farmerofva]

I found its not the gearbox it is a bolt someone put through the chain that the hay tines that pack are attached to I used a pin so it wouldn't get caught so I cycled it after timing it with drive chain spun everything moved well so hooked to tractor then bam broke a time and chain pin I just put in so I decided to try to see what happens when I trip needles bam broke the shear pin soon as it passes the knottera that happened twice not sure what the problem is or what to look for

 

[RickB]

What you need to look for is an operators manual.

 

[farmerofva]

I have one but doesn't cover my issues.

 

[airbiscuit]

It is critical that that chain is timed (just like a timing chain on an engine). That timing affects when the "rake" pulls the hay into the chamber, and when the needle threads the twine for the bale. That is very reliable baler.

There are manuals on ebay

New Holland 68 Baler Hayliner Operator's Owners Book Guide Manual NH | eBay

 

[RickB]

I have one but doesn't cover my issues.

Every genuine New Holland Square baler operator manual has detailed timing information. Pay particular attention to the needle latch adjustment. Yours must be ok or you would have broken your needles by now. That is an experience you do not want to have.

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[farmerofva]

Thanks I'll look at the needle latch adjustment

 

[airbiscuit]

The video doesn't show it, but there is also timing on the "rake" that feeds the plunger. If your manual is not explicit about this, buy a better manual on ebay.

 

[Tx Jim]

Farmerofva
Welcome to TBN
Before operating baler/cycling needles one needs to be sure plunger head stop is functioning properly!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[farmerofva]

Thanks for the welcome .. I thought I did time everything according to the manual I will try it again soon I need to retime I guess the rake and the plunger. I also wondered if I definitely have to use aisle or could plastic be used? My manual does tell me how to time everything.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Glad it was not your gearbox.

In the last post, I'm assuming that you're asking about Sisal or plastic twine. I'll leave that to someone who has one of these, but I'm guessing Sisal. Every baler that I've ever been around works best on Sisal. Most people only use plastic twine because it's cheaper, not better.

 

[zzvyb6]

Plastic is better and cheaper. Plastic is more slippery, so the bale case and knotter friction clamps must be tightened to prevent it from bunching up during needle flyback. Might be time to sharpen or change-out the 60 year old cutoff knives, too. It's not rocket science, just attention to details. The downstream supply chain will appreciate tighter bales, easier to see the twine when unloading and stacking, easier to see the cut strings after feeding, denser bales, less barn space needed and the rot resistance of the packaged and delivered hay.

We don't yet get hay from China or Terra del Fuego, and it can't be 3D printed, so being able to produce your own this coming year is going to save a lot of animals from starvation or slaughter. Around here, even with good weather, cheap fuel, and sprawling subdivisions in former hay fields, horse hay was selling for $6 to $9 per bale, you pick up. Not much left either, only round bales, unless you want to drive 50 miles each way to pick it up in your Prius (put a few extra on the roof). [- Just a side note about my neighbor's predicament !]

 

[farmerofva]

Glad it was not your gearbox.

In the last post, I'm assuming that you're asking about Sisal or plastic twine. I'll leave that to someone who has one of these, but I'm guessing Sisal. Every baler that I've ever been around works best on Sisal. Most people only use plastic twine because it's cheaper, not better.

I just was asking cause I bought a pallet of plastic and wondered no biggie I can use Sisal ... What you say makes sense thanks

 

[farmerofva]

Plastic is better and cheaper. Plastic is more slippery, so the bale case and knotter friction clamps must be tightened to prevent it from bunching up during needle flyback. Might be time to sharpen or change-out the 60 year old cutoff knives, too. It's not rocket science, just attention to details. The downstream supply chain will appreciate tighter bales, easier to see the twine when unloading and stacking, easier to see the cut strings after feeding, denser bales, less barn space needed and the rot resistance of the packaged and delivered hay.

We don't yet get hay from China or Terra del Fuego, and it can't be 3D printed, so being able to produce your own this coming year is going to save a lot of animals from starvation or slaughter. Around here, even with good weather, cheap fuel, and sprawling subdivisions in former hay fields, horse hay was selling for $6 to $9 per bale, you pick up. Not much left either, only round bales, unless you want to drive 50 miles each way to pick it up in your Prius (put a few extra on the roof). [- Just a side note about my neighbor's predicament !]

Thanks for the input yea I had people offering 100.00 per 4x5 roll I had but I didn't sell it cause I needed it. I actually bought 2 square balers a NH 66 and of course the 68 cause I really hated seeing the waste from the goats/sheep on the round bales. I figure if I can get both running if something happens I can hook to the other and keep rolling and get it done. Here out the barn for horse quality hay as they call it is going for 15.00 a bale

 

[zzvyb6]

If you have the time and the knack, you can test your 'new' baler(s) by unrolling the round bales and feeding the good hay from them into your 65 and 68 to test the machinery, AND to give you a more manageable hay supply.

 

[Sonny580]

I had a 66 ( next model down from the 68) and never had anything like this.---You do need to go over the whole thing and get the timing right or it will never work. ---Timing balers just right is way worse that any engine could ever be! ----- How many links are in your chain? is the chain worn out? ( sounds like this chain is the problem child here) Start right off with a new chain,--install it as per instructions in the book ( yes the book tells the procedure of how it's done) and it should work. We baled a LOT of bales every year with the old 66 and every 2 years we put a new timing chain on it because of the wear caused by the dirt that they run in.

Whatever you do DON'T try to use that plastic crap in a 66! ---I know for a fact it wont work!--nothing you try to set will make it work either. The knotters on these depend on the thickness of the regular twine to tie properly! ---I know guys use plastic in other balers, but not in a 66 ---not even sure bout a 68 --- nobody around here used the plastic crap.

 

[farmerofva]

If you have the time and the knack, you can test your 'new' baler(s) by unrolling the round bales and feeding the good hay from them into your 65 and 68 to test the machinery, AND to give you a more manageable hay supply.

That's what I planned to do to test them out and go from there.

 

[farmerofva]

I had a 66 ( next model down from the 68) and never had anything like this.---You do need to go over the whole thing and get the timing right or it will never work. ---Timing balers just right is way worse that any engine could ever be! ----- How many links are in your chain? is the chain worn out? ( sounds like this chain is the problem child here) Start right off with a new chain,--install it as per instructions in the book ( yes the book tells the procedure of how it's done) and it should work. We baled a LOT of bales every year with the old 66 and every 2 years we put a new timing chain on it because of the wear caused by the dirt that they run in.

Whatever you do DON'T try to use that plastic crap in a 66! ---I know for a fact it wont work!--nothing you try to set will make it work either. The knotters on these depend on the thickness of the regular twine to tie properly! ---I know guys use plastic in other balers, but not in a 66 ---not even sure bout a 68 --- nobody around here used the plastic crap.

The 66 seems to be in good to go shape I will test it first before I mess with the chains probably.