New deck on my trailer today.

[Billrog]

Decided the last time I loaded my tractor it was time for a new deck. So found a bit fir knocked it down and made some planks a full 2" x 12" & 14".


When I bought this trailer new 10 years ago the sales man told me it was a 6,000 lb. trailer but I questioned him because it had 8 bolt 10 ply load range E tires on it & a very heavy frame. He stuck to his story so I paid him the $1,700.00 and headed for home with it. Today with the deck off the tags on the 3" axles both say 7,000 lbs. so I guess I got a deal.

Got rained out only thing left is to put back the angle iron over the 2 ends of the planks on the deck.

Here's a shot of the trailer with a load of free 20' logs a few years ago.

 

[Renze]

When I bought this trailer new 10 years ago the sales man told me it was a 6,000 lb. trailer but I questioned him because it had 8 bolt 10 ply load range E tires on it & a very heavy frame. He stuck to his story so I paid him the $1,700.00 and headed for home with it. Today with the deck off the tags on the 3" axles both say 7,000 lbs. so I guess I got a deal.

So you havent been underneath for inspection or maintenance in your 10 years of ownership ??

 

[George2615]

Looks good. Only problem I see is the wood is green and not kiln dried so it will shrink. I did the same thing last year. I installed freshly milled 2" x 10" x 12' hemlock on a classic truck bed. It was so tight I had to use a 4 x 4 and a sledge hammer to drive the last board in place. I fastened mine with Stainless hardware. Truck is a classic and hasn't been outside in rain since the install. Now, one year later the wood has dried some and I have 1/2" gaps between the boards and most have splits. Here's before and after pics.

And yes, you got a very good deal on the trailer.

 

[s219]

Boy, fir is sure pretty wood!

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks nice. I bought my trailer brand new with wolmanized wood on it that lasted 5 years. I replaced it with treated wood from Lowes that is doing a lot better. All my rot started at the angle iron that went over the edge of the wood in the back. I cut that off and threw it away. One board curled up on me last year that got in the way of loading round bales onto it, but otherwise it's still solid. I understand why the put that angle iron on there, but I also think it causes the wood to rot prematurely.

 

[Billrog]

George that deck still looks great cracks and all I'm hoping mine shrinks don't want it to swell.
Eddie you are correct the angle iron on the end does and did rot out the ends of the original planks.I was wondering if I were to put some wood preservative on the ends then the angle would prevent that.
Renze I hope to never see under that trailer ever again .
S219 fir is a nice tough wood for building with but it's got a mind of it's own when it decides to twist nothing stops it.

 

[LD1]

How does fir hold up to the elements? Is it naturally rot resistant?

Around here, it's either treated boards, or white oak. I did my 25' GN with white oak. Full 20' lenght boards for the flat deck, 11 of the about 8" wide. And got 6 10' boards and chopped in half for the dove. Boards are 1.5" thick, since the height of the sides above the cross braces was 1.5".

Cot me $315 for the boards. And white oak lasts as long or longer than treated lumber

 

[Billrog]

LD1 I'd have to guess the fir deck will last 20 years since it has air all the way around it other than like Eddie stated where there's angle iron on the ends to hold moisture in. Without it there the planks should stay in good shape a long time. White Oak isn't an option here but Tamerak ( Larch )is very rot resistant I just don't have access to it.

 

[civilian]

Looks nice. I bought my trailer brand new with wolmanized wood on it that lasted 5 years. I replaced it with treated wood from Lowes that is doing a lot better. All my rot started at the angle iron that went over the edge of the wood in the back. I cut that off and threw it away. One board curled up on me last year that got in the way of loading round bales onto it, but otherwise it's still solid. I understand why the put that angle iron on there, but I also think it causes the wood to rot prematurely.

Instead of an angle, can a flat bar be used? Jon

 

[topbuilder]

Nice job Billrog.
Will you seal it with deck sealer or something?

 

[Renze]

Looks nice. I bought my trailer brand new with wolmanized wood on it that lasted 5 years. .... I understand why the put that angle iron on there, but I also think it causes the wood to rot prematurely.

I buy Douglas fir from my neighbour, who saws it with a Woodmizer. He told me to treat it with a 50/50 mix of used engine oil and coal-tar creosote. He says as long as its greasy it will repel water, and the oil will especially get into the crevices where normally rot and rust begin. In the summer when the wood is bone dry, i park it in the bush, throw a bucket of oil/tar mixture over it and use a standard pavement sweep to rub it in. Then after a few days the last drops fell off and i park it back on its usual spot.

 

[topbuilder]

My 20' trailer has the old CCA treated boards (20 years old). I buy up any discounted deck sealer I see regardless of color, and spray it heavy with a pump up sprayer every couple of years. Seems to be holding up very well.

I'm concerned what the new treated wood will do to a trailer. When used for building, you can only used galvanized fasteners, they say regular nails will rust away. Not sure if contact with angle iron will also be problematic...

 

[two_bit_score]

I buy Douglas fir from my neighbour, who saws it with a Woodmizer. He told me to treat it with a 50/50 mix of used engine oil and coal-tar creosote. He says as long as its greasy it will repel water, and the oil will especially get into the crevices where normally rot and rust begin. In the summer when the wood is bone dry, i park it in the bush, throw a bucket of oil/tar mixture over it and use a standard pavement sweep to rub it in. Then after a few days the last drops fell off and i park it back on its usual spot.

Wouldn't 50/50 linseed oil/turpentine be better?


TBS

 

[GLyford]

I'm concerned what the new treated wood will do to a trailer. When used for building, you can only used galvanized fasteners, they say regular nails will rust away. Not sure if contact with angle iron will also be problematic...

I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood. Finding the right fasteners is likely problematic...I would expect the self-drilling ones to wear off any coating they might have one it hits the metal, would not be surprised to see them start to corrode and break off flush over time.

I have seen white oak treated with motor oil and diesel last 20 years without further treatment, I would imagine creosote would be be good too...we can't get it here anymore.

 

[topbuilder]

"I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood."

That might do it. I have to redo my cattle trailer this fall. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[two_bit_score]

I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood. Finding the right fasteners is likely problematic...I would expect the self-drilling ones to wear off any coating they might have one it hits the metal, would not be surprised to see them start to corrode and break off flush over time.

I have seen white oak treated with motor oil and diesel last 20 years without further treatment, I would imagine creosote would be be good too...we can't get it here anymore.

"I have seen guys put the butyl flashing like they use around windows on the metal parts of their trailers before putting down the treated wood."

That might do it. I have to redo my cattle trailer this fall. I'll keep that in mind.

That is good thought. I think using auto body seam sealer might be a good idea.

TBS

 

[Qapla]

We will be putting a new deck on our trailer. It needs 18' boards for the deck where they meet a 4' steel area. The back end has a slight bend down in it. We are planning on replacing it with pressure treated from Home Depot because they carry ones that are rated "ground contact/water proof"