Use the search function, there have been quite a few threads on the subject of splitting a tractor and they were helpful to me. I did mine 2 yrs ago and it was much less painful than I thought it would be. Not sure exactly how long it took me since I had to stop half way through and reorder a wrong T/O bearing but it is an easy weekend project working by yourself.
As Hinomotoman said, put wood wedges on each side of the front axle pivot so it can't "flop" over after separated, block the front end and use a rolling jack or other sturdy/stable method that supports the rear half and allows you to roll it backwards from the front. If you have a manual, it is very helpful to see how things come apart...if you don't already have one, get an I&T manual for the MT160-300 series tractors. I don't think the 2201 is listed specifically but there is enough crossover between the models to figure out what is what. They are relatively cheap and worth their weight in gold when you need to work on something.
First, to separate the tractor, if it is 4WD you will have to disconnect the front drive shaft. You will have to take the floor boards loose at the front, hydraulic line loose at the pump. Remove the dash and lower panel and disconnect the dash wiring harness, glow plug wires,water temp sending unit wires, etc. If you think there is a chance you wont remember how it was wired, label/tag the wires with some masking tape and ink pen as you take them loose ( i would suggest this). Disconnect the tach cable, throttle linkage, steering drag link. You will have to shut the fuel off and disconnect the fuel line and return line. Take the 6-8 bolts out of the bell housing and a little prying will separate the two halves. Roll the rear half back slowly and if there is anything you forgot or didn't see to disconnect it will be obvious and you can do it at this time. It is pretty straight forward, especially with a manual. Everything goes back together in reverse order.
There is sometimes a trick to getting the two halves mated back together. The two halves have to be perfectly aligned and you need a clutch alignment tool available at any parts store but it is easy to just make your own out of a bolt with the head cut off, a threaded rod, wood dowel etc...just something the same size as the pilot bearing ID and the spine shaft OD and make one. If you need to turn the splines slightly to get them to match, you can put the trans in neutral and engage the PTO and turn it by hand.
This might all sound pretty time consuming but it actually goes pretty quick and doesn't involve great mechanical ability or special tools.
