NEW 1700 Ford Tractor owner...

[Red State]

Greetings ALL, I'm new here and have posted my first thread in the wrong place so I'm trying to re-post it here (the FORD New Holland board). I'm a first time diesel owner and proud owner of a Ford 600 and a Ford 1700 (which I LOVE by the way). I'm not too knowledgeable on the diesels so, for now, I'd like to know what hydraulic fluid I need to stock up on. I don't need it but it'd be good to have (just in case). My only problem with the 1700 right now is that it was absolutely perfect for a few days of grading the drive-way and FINISH mowing my large yard. I wasn't till I took it over to my hunting place that I saw how tempermental this tractor could be. After two or three hours of bushogging, it began to burp some coolant and then a bit of steam. There is NO oil in water or water in oil....there isn't even any small, carbonated COKE-like bubbles or large bubbles.......just a smooth, even flow of clean, green coolant. I had to stop and clean the debris from the 4-5 foot weeds and it did fine until I really worked it so it could simply be that both I and the tractor were working too long in too hot of an old dusty day. I do notice it doing a little burping of coolant when I'm going faster and pulling or lifting heavy loads.

So, I many need to change the air filter or intake if that is what it is called cuz I've read some of the posts you guys have posted about other such problems. One that I read even said that if the belt is too loose it'll overheat a bit but if too tight it'll ruin the alternator. Mine seems perfectly tight but I did nit-pic and notice a slight wabble to the fan pulley. I'm probably just nic-picking everything cuz the tractor does what is needed and when it is needed. I suppose I'd simply appreciate some info on the hydraulic, oil and coolant that you guys prefer to start me off with. I'm not sure what year it was made so I may need some help in getting the correct owner/operator manual. Any help would be appreciated and once we get all that out of the way, perhaps we could simply talk about what we like most about these great little tractors.

The other thread I started is below....

NEW 1700 Ford Tractor owner...

 

[rayikeo2]

It is easy to overheat a 1700 while brush hogging, especially if the brush hog is too wide or the stuff your cutting is too tall. Overflowing antifreeze is a sign of overheating. The gauge should run at mid point. 5' brush hog seems to be max size. The wobble in the water pump pulley is a sign that you need to replace the water pump. They are not servicable. On ebay they have a new pump for around $95. If you wait too long the shaft will seperate and flail into the radiator. You don't want that to happen. 1700's were made in 79 and 80.

Check the screen in front of the radiator for grass and dirt blockage. Air cleaner is an oil filed and servicable unit. Take it off, pour out the old oil and clean it with diesel fuel. Refill to line at bottom of the canister with clean engine oil and put it back on..

 

[JC-jetro]

The key is to measure the temp and not just the dial as they all don't display the same and even if they did it does not mean the same temp. Get yourself a non-contact infra red thermometer and actually measure temp of t-stat housing, hoses and block. Refer to thread below and you'll find more info that you'd probably like to read.

JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...179639-how-much-temp-too-much.html?highlight=

Below is where the temp needle on my 1700 in the heat of summer, brush hogging brush as tall as 8 feet and covering an area of 3/4 acres.

 

[Red State]

rayikeo2 WROTE: "It is easy to overheat a 1700 while brush hogging, especially if the brush hog is too wide or the stuff your cutting is too tall. Overflowing antifreeze is a sign of overheating. The gauge should run at mid point. 5' brush hog seems to be max size. The wobble in the water pump pulley is a sign that you need to replace the water pump. They are not servicable. On ebay they have a new pump for around $95. If you wait too long the shaft will seperate and flail into the radiator. You don't want that to happen. 1700's were made in 79 and 80.

Check the screen in front of the radiator for grass and dirt blockage. Air cleaner is an oil filed and servicable unit. Take it off, pour out the old oil and clean it with diesel fuel. Refill to line at bottom of the canister with clean engine oil and put it back on."

___________________My reply: (something goofy happened with the quote button....so I manually put in Ray's quote.

THANKS ,rayikeo2, I did actually clean the front in several times during my fight with the weeds. I intended to do as you suggested but thought I'd have to change the oil altogether because I wasn't sure how diesels were built and thought oil would go everywhere if I didn't FIRST drop the old old plug. HA!!! I'll see what I can do to get what you said going. Had a bit of a KraZy day today. Picked up a nail while and had been putting air in it cuz it was just a slow leak and when I was going to take it to my local tire guy, the darn thing wouldn't crank. It tried but seemed to be flooded and in the process of cranking it, the battery went dead. Fortunately, the tire guy had my tire fixed and the batter charged for me when I drove through tonight on my way back from the city. I left him a note so he wouldn't worry but I'd worry if I left my beloved 1700 there overnite with the gate open. All seems well now but I KNOW why the lights and stuff have been unhooked. I truly don't think my alternator works or works good. Everything else is GREAT and I appreciate you guys telling me what you know. I can't say this enough but out of all the notorious problems that I had read about the 1700's I have enjoyed this lil' tractor more than my old 8N (rest in peace) and my 600 (which is in the shop). It finally has to be broken in two and rebuilt if I'm to have any LIFT. Once I get it back, I'll have it do all the really tough stuff and I'll take it a bit easier on my 1700. They aren't as pretty (to me) as the old red belly but I am so proud of my lil' blue buddy. HA!!!

 

[Red State]

Yes, JC-JETRO, I actually read that thread and a couple more. They were all very informative and interesting. In fact, your posts and this article and the others are why I joined this forum.

As to what you wrote, I will have to get my gauge fixed *(REPLACED). It is exactly like the one in the photo so I'm going to go ahead and replace it with one that actually has the temps marked on it. As I understand, the temp should stay around 230 to 250. My other gauge RPM/batt and stuff works and I now suspect that my alternator doesnt' work or is faulty. I hadn't noticed a weak battery because of how dad-gum well this lil' 1700 starts up but it is definately missing a charging while using it (which may be why they unhooked the lights). The horn still works and I intend to make everything work and look more like it did when it rolled off the assembly line. SAY....I was in the TSC (tractor supply co.) today and came across some Diesel 9-1-1. Would this and other such products be OK to use when winter comes on. I was afraid to buy it or use it cuz it says that it does not harm 2007 + model tractors......which to me meant that it could harm my OLDER tractor.

Also, as 1700 owners.....what hydraulic fluid do you guys suggest? I know what oil to use and all but I've yet to determine what kind of trans/hydraulic to use for when it is low or needs replacing. I've asked this several times and may have failed to see it but nobody has gotten back to me on this as far as I can tell. As my luck would have it (after the flat and the dead battery today) TSC was out of the 1700 owner/operator guides. That must be a good thing cuz that means MANY folks have and appreciate their's enough to get the book on it. TSC's price was $35.oo but I've found them on Ebay for $21.oo.

Anyway, thanks again for the info and being so helpful.

 

[JC-jetro]

Yes, JC-JETRO, I
As to what you wrote, I will have to get my gauge fixed *(REPLACED). It is exactly like the one in the photo so I'm going to go ahead and replace it with one that actually has the temps marked on it.

Anyway, thanks again for the info and being so helpful.

Hello Red and welcome to TBN Blue,

There is a ton of info specially on 1700 on this forum. Do search your topic of interest and filter the search to NH Owning and operating and you will not be disappointed.

Now, let me ask you a question, what would happen if you had access to your temp gauge front glass, let's say it was removable and then you went and bent the needle toward the left or rotated it just 10 degrees? would you think your engine temp would be any different? all I'm trying to say is that there was no need for me to change my gauge because my t-stat housing never went above 210, well within operating temp of my diesel. Actually that is about optimum. Now if the needle stayed right in the middle and I measured the temp and it was over 215 then I would worry about as the gauge appeared defective or out of calibration. There is sensitivity factor with a thermocouple such as no two thermistor show exact and identical out put when they are exposed to set temp. That hold true for the gauge that is supposed to show the temp. there is a slight variation of calibration in all analog input and or outputs. if the input or out put is digital then it is zero or one same as on or off and there is no in between. Don't change your gauge , only figure out what temp you read based on needle position and analyze it from there.

I have for the last 7years used TSC Mystick equal to Ford 134. They have the same in traveler brand. All you care should be Ford 134 classification or you just buy NH oil.

FO-44 is what you need for and I bought mine from TSC for about $20-25, cant remember but they did have it on the shelf when I looked.

Do use NH website and their parts and diagrams. Those are invaluable specially in Hydraulic system description.

You'll find a lot of the fo-44 descriptions and scanned sheet here that might prove to be all you'll ever need.

JC,

 

[Red State]

Hello Red and welcome to TBN Blue,

There is a ton of info specially on 1700 on this forum. Do search your topic of interest and filter the search to NH Owning and operating and you will not be disappointed.

Now, let me ask you a question, what would happen if you had access to your temp gauge front glass, let's say it was removable and then you went and bent the needle toward the left or rotated it just 10 degrees? would you think your engine temp would be any different? all I'm trying to say is that there was no need for me to change my gauge because my t-stat housing never went above 210, well within operating temp of my diesel. Actually that is about optimum. Now if the needle stayed right in the middle and I measured the temp and it was over 215 then I would worry about as the gauge appeared defective or out of calibration. There is sensitivity factor with a thermocouple such as no two thermistor show exact and identical out put when they are exposed to set temp. That hold true for the gauge that is supposed to show the temp. there is a slight variation of calibration in all analog input and or outputs. if the input or out put is digital then it is zero or one same as on or off and there is no in between. Don't change your gauge , only figure out what temp you read based on needle position and analyze it from there.

I have for the last 7years used TSC Mystick equal to Ford 134. They have the same in traveler brand. All you care should be Ford 134 classification or you just buy NH oil.

FO-44 is what you need for and I bought mine from TSC for about $20-25, cant remember but they did have it on the shelf when I looked.

Do use NH website and their parts and diagrams. Those are invaluable specially in Hydraulic system description.

You'll find a lot of the fo-44 descriptions and scanned sheet here that might prove to be all you'll ever need.

JC,

You are EXACTLY right....and I failed to see this message until after I had called the New Holland dealer in Savanah, TN. They said to us the 134 Umbria (for Ford Hydraulic/Transmission Fluid) <OR> Kobota UDT 134 since I was closer to a Kobota dealer. Looks like the Walmart stuff is going back.

Anyway, your mention of the gauge reading in the middle and (not really reading at all) is EXACTLY what mine is doing. I started my 1700 just GREAT this morning (after the flat, the flooded and then dead battery from trying to start it yesterday on a severe angle from the flat tire). Used it a bit and quite because a little "burping" was going on due to the wet grass, up-hill grade and the overly fast speed that I was pushing the tractor. Anyway, if I'm to replace the faulty gauge, I believe I'd prefer to have one that read the actual temp. Who knows, I may even get lucky and it read EXACTLY what the engine is. I've seen a thread on that very thing so I'll try and look at that again.

Thanks for the info....I'll probably follow your advice instead of the dealer and get the TSC Mystick that you suggested for my hydraulics.

 

[Red State]

Oh...not that I needed any fluid BUT for when I do get low, is there any problems in putting in two different kinds of hydraulic fluid? I have not idea what is currently in the tractor but it looks very clean. It is a light color and is hard to read on the dip stick. My oil is black and the guy I bought it from told me this morning that I should change it after 50 hours or a bit before. I told him that I haven't even gotten 10 on the gauge yet.

Anyway, thanks for all the wisdom out there in Kansas!!

~RED

 

[JC-jetro]

Red,

i personally stay away from using two brand name with same specs, say Ford 134. I'm thinking might have more and less as they advertize for several manufacturers. The recommendation for diesel crankcase oil is about 50 hrs or so. Diesel oil gets black pretty quickly (in couple of hrs) and that is not indication of oil quality. On Hyd they recommend 300 hrs and mine was never changed for 20+ years till I changed it 7 years ago. I have a thread below that might give you some insight.
The oil change recommendation is also corroborated with m y Kubota literature on my MX-4700. I don't know TSC carries Mystick anymore but Traveler for 134 is about the same.

JC,


For your late night reading pleasure, that should put you to sleep in nothing flat

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html?highlight=

 

[Red State]

thanks JC....I'll check the thread out. All info has been so helpful.