need TC40DA pto safety switch picture

[jinman]

I think I'd keep an eye on ebay for a bargain. In the meantime, your buddy, Jim in Texas, will be glad to give you a double check if you have a question about manual accuracy. For 95% of what's there, I'm sure it's the same. What concerns me is the electrical diagrams are different. That's the most important thing to me and what you should have the greatest concern about. It's really up to you and your comfort level.

 

[DocHeb]

It's too bad we don't have a "press-to-test" button to light up all the lamps in the dash panel.

I was going to take a picture of the dash lights for Robert but forgot. On my tractor, all the dash lights will turn on for 3 seconds when you first turn the key to start the tractor (TC40D bought in Sep 2002). You can see the position of the 540 / 600 PTO RPM lights at that time.

 

[jinman]

On my tractor, all the dash lights will turn on for 3 seconds when you first turn the key to start the tractor (TC40D bought in Sep 2002). You can see the position of the 540 / 600 PTO RPM lights at that time.

Chris, maybe if my tractor was inside when I start it, I could see both lights, but I can usually only see the 600 light and not the 540. My 540 is kinda dim and that may be the problem when outside. You are correct that all the lights self-test on startup. I had overlooked that.

 

[RobertN]

The switch will be on the list for the weekend. Thanks to all for the info.

 

[RobertN]

I have the switch back in position. It appears to work properly. When I engage the PTO, the PTO light comes on. And, when I rev to 2400-2600 rpm, the "540" light comes on. Above that, the red "600" light comes on.

What is puzzling, is I did not notice the lights before. With the switch jumpered (with a scotch-lock) I should have seen the lights. Maybe did not pay close enough attention.

I feel better now though. My son should be safe on it. He is already very careful with the tractor.

Thanks to all for the help!

 

[DocHeb]

I have the switch back in position.

Did you have to take the rear tire off, or were you able to get the switch in from below?

 

[jinman]

What is puzzling, is I did not notice the lights before. With the switch jumpered (with a scotch-lock) I should have seen the lights. Maybe did not pay close enough attention.

Robert, when the switch contacts are closed, that indicates the PTO is NOT engaged. When the lever is moved to engage and the button is pressed, the switch contacts open. The open circuit drops power to the failsafe Safety Start Relay and causes the PTO light to illuminate. That's also why if you ever see the PTO light on and the lever is not engaged, Fuse #2 is blown, removing power from the same relay's coil. With the jumper in place, you were telling the system that the PTO is never engaged.

Glad you got everything fixed. That PTO safety circuit is pretty important in my book.

 

[RobertN]

I don't know why I thought to do this, but but as you know those are big heavy tires to begin with. Just out of the blue, I backed the tractor so the valve stem was sitting low, and tried letting a squirt of air out. I got liquid instead.

No way I was gonna try to move a liquid filled tire. So, I did it from below. It was a little cramped, but I got in there.

The liquid in the tire was clear, and I did not notice any odor. Guessing it is just water; not sure what Calcium Chloride would look like. The book I do have lists 5lbs per gallon water, would be 600lbs ballast, per tire.

Did you have to take the rear tire off, or were you able to get the switch in from below?

 

[RobertN]

That makes sense. Even though I am a 24 year experience Elect Tech, I did not look at the schematics. I just went "Oh look, a dangling switch!".

I still need to clean up the wires; as someone else mentioned, removing the Scotch-lock is inviting corrosion. I was not able to see how to remove the contacts from the connector housing; that would be the simplest way to heat shrink the two wires. I may just have to cut/splice/solder/heat-shrink.

As I mentioned to Doc_Heb's post, it appears the tires are loaded, so access to solder is limited with the tire on.

Next up though, will be glow plugs... My relay system seems funky; often the glow plugs do not come on, sometimes they come on at odd times(at least the light). Seems to match some of the other threads about the glow plug issues.

Robert, when the switch contacts are closed, that indicates the PTO is NOT engaged. When the lever is moved to engage and the button is pressed, the switch contacts open. The open circuit drops power to the failsafe Safety Start Relay and causes the PTO light to illuminate. That's also why if you ever see the PTO light on and the lever is not engaged, Fuse #2 is blown, removing power from the same relay's coil. With the jumper in place, you were telling the system that the PTO is never engaged.

Glad you got everything fixed. That PTO safety circuit is pretty important in my book.

 

[DocHeb]

Next up though, will be glow plugs... My relay system seems funky; often the glow plugs do not come on, sometimes they come on at odd times(at least the light). Seems to match some of the other threads about the glow plug issues.

I had problems with the glow plug timer that has caused problems for many of the Class III Boomer owners (not the glow plugs.) Two bolts under the tilt mechanism for the steering wheel, and two bolts far under the cowling under the left side of the engine compartment, and the black lower half of the dash comes off. Simple repair.